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Can we have a thread for these please? If you look close you can see the wet cardboard gasket between the rubber and sink. Nice

But why else would they put that cardboard ring on the strainer between the gasket and the nut, if it wasnt ment to be installed..........:laughing:

 

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Below that tee...

they need more wax..........gota love that old cast iron pipe.........almost as bad as the old galvanized that splits on the seems............

 

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Called out for sink not draining good, customer said the handy man he hired to install disposal did the piping. Customer said it took 3 times to get it working better? with this arrangement.:vs_laugh:

I re-piped the drain & showed him this is why you call a professional to begin with........:smile:

Rube Goldberg would have been proud of that...

 

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Had a call for a main valve leak on city’s side. The flare fitting on the main valve was leaking. Have you guys ever seen someone flare plastic pipe like this before? Doesn’t seem like a good idea to me but maybe it was acceptable back in the day?


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I will flair 1 inch k copper for the main line valve, I always like a mechanical joint so you can replace the valve on the fly if all hell breaks loose..and I have several times....thats when wearing a 55 gallon garbage bag keeps you a little dryer..lol

 

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The homeowner tried to fix this on his rental property. He used some rubber, hose clamps, a paint stir stick, and caulk. I’m surprised it didn’t hold.

years ago I got a call for a leaky sewer main and went to look, the entire main from the trap to the end was wrapped in duct tape about 1/2 inch thick, the main was hanging on the basement wall about 3ft above the floor..A for effort to the wrapper, I got the job replacing it and the worse part was cutting it up, couldnt use a snap cutter and all that tape gunked up the sawsall blade and would make it bind..I cut all the vertical pipes coming off of it and beat the piss out of it with a sledge and let it fall to the floor, then kept spraying wd-40 on a wood sawsall blade to get through the tape...what some people will do to avoid paying to have it done right, the owner said it was that way for years..

 

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Interesting. Dishwasher drain always ties into the disposal if available. AAV’s are legal here and that’s exactly how I run a kitchen line, however, being a drain cleaner, I put a wye below the tee with a clean out.

Amazing how code differs.

true, and 60 or 70 years ago the plumbing worked just as good without all these codes, and if plumbed with modern materials the same way they would work better and longer..so a rhetorical question..why all the codes and rules today? and from the difference in codes just in this country alone also poses the question of why all the differences and who proves what works best..I personally feel its just a revenue generated system..look at the fees for permits and inspections....and in the last 100 years the amount of taxes we have now and didnt back then, now they call them a friendlier fee not a tax..same difference if it is coming out of my pocket..

 

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100% This.

I feel this way the most about electric water heaters. Why the heck do we need an inspection on an electric water heater replacement? If it's existing there, why not put it back the way it was?

Maybe the homeowner can't afford all of the bells and whistles that comes with an inspection, and then guess what happens? They tell you to #@$^ off, and then they put it in themselves, maybe in an even more unsafe manner than was there to begin with.

I know this is not really taking into account all of the scumbags out there doing subpar work and then running away with ma and pa's savings account, so there's THAT.

but you hit the nail on the head..the scumbag hackers dont pull permits , so there are no inspections..just like the criminal that buys a black market gun...non of the gun control laws apply to him..the same with the hacks...

 

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I was wondering what type of flare tool you use for 3/4” k cooper and above. When I have a water main repair I usually borrow my master’s flare tool but am going to order my own. He has the kind you hammer into the pipe to create the flare. Do you know of anything better then that?


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I use the hammer type, fast and easy and it doesnt cost much and you almost cant break it...I dont know if they have any fancy electric flaring tool... https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-41335...90696&sr=8-15&keywords=rigid+flaring+tool+kit

 

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sell them a new water main and quote the lawsuits against kitec and tell the customer you can be liable for the old water main if you touch it..

 

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hope the electric was off before they hit the floaties in the water...

 

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Nope. Neat idea but it's hack work.

hack for plumbing yes, but on heavy equipment to fix a wear spot on a steel hydraulic line its a great repair, but done with steel wire and braze...

 

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I think its a neat trick. Obviously us plumbers should avoid doing that but as a service guy I am glad to know this.


Why would it be okay to do on a 3000psi hydraulic line but not a water pipe?

when I say for a wear spot on hydraulics, the wear was caused by 2 metal pipes rubbing causing the leak, not rust or rot that could deteriorate the pipe, most leaks on copper are from corrosion and the integrity of the pipe is compromised probably in more than just the spot leaking, and changing out a section of copper pipe is much easier and cheaper than hydraulic lines that are snaked through a piece of equipment, im not saying the steel wire and braze is what a dealership would do, but on a 30 or 40 year old piece of equipment it will be just fine..

 

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I always find it's easier to cut the pipe anyway. Less chance of water being in that puppy. I can't imagine trying to heat a piece of copper not knowing whether there's water in it.

I love reading the comments too. :vs_laugh:

I carry a small hot dog air compressor on the truck, great for blowing water out of pipes to fix a leak, saves on water on the floor when cutting the old out and works great for hydronic loops..its a real pain trying to put a flat container under baseboard to try and catch the water and it seems always light colored carpet in the room that needs a fix with the dirtiest water possible..:crying:

 

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Sometimes I get 1/4 to 1/2 of a 5 gallon bucket! 2-3 months ago I had to cap the lines of a water softener that I removed. I opened all the faucet up stairs, opened the water heater safety valve beside me and I had water dripping for 15-25 minutes then I used the vacuum for another 25 minutes and more water for another 30 minutes. I was seriously thinking of going back to the city and buying SB fittings because I wasn't able to solder. Eventually the drip was slowing and used 3 fireproof layers to protect the wall and turned on the torch to max until I got a 10 second break.

The main valve was closed 100% but it was the water in the house that kept coming back. I never knew what I ran into but my guess I was siphoning the water heater and coming back on the cold?? . No hoses lying outside either.

What you are referring to Alan is the water heater heating the water and expanding it causing it to drip?

thats where the compressor come in handy, a garden hose fitting on the air line and hose clamp the hose to where the water is dripping and let it blow back and out the faucets, even if it doesnt stop it gives you time to solder a fitting on before the water makes it back to where you just blew it away from..

 

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Are ya sure it's siphoning and not water seeping out due to the thermostat kicking on and the water being heated?

I still forget that sometimes, then finally after everything on an entire city block is off, I turn off the electricity to the water heater and it stops.

I have opened the relief valve if it in good condition or drain a 5 gallon bucket out of heater to stop that from happening, also any water now drains back to heater away from where your working..

 

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thats gonna be sticky.....

 

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Vernors is twice the carbonation as Canada Dry, so you are correct! Personally I now believe they should ban this dangerous cartridge! What if I was in the truck at the time?! The shell shock alone!

you could sue for millions and now claim you need a comfort pet that you must carry from now on and cant work anymore..and you will probably win..

 

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I was greeted in my truck by this guy today almost landing on my knee, surviving getting stomped and dragged.. TWICE and then escaped behind a plastic panel or under the flooring - I’m so pissed - 90% sure it’s a black widow - I saw (I think, for like 1/2 a second) the red hourglass on its belly - if it’s not a black widow, I believe it’s a brown widow... so pissed...

you people down south have too many dam things that can kill you or make you real sick if they bite you..:surprise:

 

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I have a really hard time remembering to get pictures. I jump in to get it done so fast I get halfway through and then swear at myself.

My winner today was a leak under a house. 1-1/2" galvanized drain that had been replaced with 2" abs except for about the last 8 inches. So I cut it out and used a CI x Pl "donut" to eliminate the leaking section.

Closer inspection revealed that further upstream of the repair I made is a coupling with a bushing in it. I traced it back to the floor penetration and there is a 1-1/2" 1/4 bend followed by a 1-1/2" sanitary tee that is shooting over to another wall (vent?) and then up through the floor.

Apparently this is a newly remodeled kitchen by a home depot contractor, so i looked a little closer there are sharkbite tees valves, couplings fittings all over the place under there with pex lines looped over to the new kitchen location with the crappy drain. All the 1/2" pex lines are held up by 1" galvanized conduit clamps.

So sad.

but it was done cheap for the customer thats all they care about and they dont see whats behind or under the floors..

 

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