[skoronesa]

Years ago working for the big R.R. had a call for a washer drain found that the homeowners had used a hand crank snake and they had cranked it where it had doubled itself not once back and forth up and down the vent
10" of 3/8" cable had to out the san tee and replace it then snake the drain,
wish that I had a camera back in the day

Oh that's easy! Just vac out the water you can and pour in a gallon of your favorite drain cleaner! I prefer hydrochloric acid 35%. That old snake and the clog will be gone in no time!!

 

[skoronesa]

You would think with a bottle like that people would maybe get it. he deserved everything he got and more. I looked it up and it's only sulfuric acid, you don't want to drink it but it's no comparison to KOH or HCL

 

[skoronesa]

Johnny was a chemists son, but johnny is no more. What johnny thought was h2o was h2so4.

 

[skoronesa]

https://law.justia.com/cases/federal/appellate-courts/F2/380/453/314875/

 

[skoronesa]

Did not see them much in Orlando, but here in Charlotte, everyone uses them.

They are extremely common around here as well. Our guys use bell hangers for stops with the chrome extension tubes so you don't have to worry about the pipe unsoldering from a "holdrite" bracket. They can be a bit of a pain at first but if you're good at soldering they only take a second and allow a lot of adjustment.

 

[skoronesa]

It doesn't matter. Guys flush the urinal about as often as they wash their hands, which is almost never.

 

[skoronesa]

The unit is outside, only the copper lines go to the coil in the furnace in the basement.

The AC fan that cools the condenser when outside only has to deal with exterior air. If it's in an attic like I imagine the fan provides scorching air from the attic to try and cool the condenser...

No one anywhere puts condensers inside. Unless you are talking about geothermal or something else unusual.

Yes, you could argue that the air handler being in the attic means it works harder because nothing is perfectly insulated. But, you could also argue that cooling the attic also helps cool the rest of the house. Most 2 floor houses with ductwork have a unit in the attic and a unit in the basement. Personally if I only had one unit for ac it would be in the attic because cool air will move down through the house.

None of this really matters because soon everyone will have split systems that do heating and cooling.

 

[skoronesa]

Nope, never seen flared plastic!

By the way those pliers are hungry for fingers, and will gladly break them like a nut cracker for you... I would ditch them and buy better pump pliers that the majority of plumbers use. I've seen too many injuries with those.

The majority of plumbers use channellocks.

 

[skoronesa]

I keep a 6" pair of channellocks in my pants pocket, easily my most used tool. Just had to replace it last week because my last paircracked finally. They lasted 4 years.


I also have a standard 10" and 12" pair in my bag as well as a 12" vjaw pair for larger nuts or rounder objects.


For sloan flush valves we have the sloan multi wrench in our sloan kit. It's nice to just grab the sloan kit and some dope for almost any sloan repairs

 

[skoronesa]

I was wondering what type of flare tool you use for 3/4” k cooper and above. When I have a water main repair I usually borrow my master’s flare tool but am going to order my own. He has the kind you hammer into the pipe to create the flare. Do you know of anything better then that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the tool crib we have the hammer style ones. I have a ridgid 454w on my van. But honestly, most of the time we use the compression fittings with the rubber like tango described. Exposed in a building we will just solder it.

 

[skoronesa]

I think its a neat trick. Obviously us plumbers should avoid doing that but as a service guy I am glad to know this.


Why would it be okay to do on a 3000psi hydraulic line but not a water pipe?

 

[skoronesa]

If I have a drip I usually just solder on a female tee or a male adapter first with my big torch tip. Then you can either put a plug in the tee or screw on an ips valve.

 

[skoronesa]

both those issues can be solved with a well sighted in rifle..

Seriously, there is probably some other pacifist accross the river bringing them back lolz. Those animals must be so confused.

 

[skoronesa]

"Hey jim, what's the most futuristic thing we can do to make our new hack plumbing product look futuristic?"


"Well dan, obviously we just rip the arms off the robot from lost in space!"

 

[skoronesa]

In my area plunging an older kitchen line is a waste of time due to the vent through the roof. If it has an AAV there’s a trick. Not going to post it, or my other tricks. Pm if you want, but it’s really basic cleaner knowledge.

You put your disposable glove over the aav and use a shop vac on the hole in the sink.


Or you unscrew the aav and replace it with an 1-1/2 threaded plug then you can plunge too.

 

[skoronesa]

Round here I just prefer to cut the old pipe out in the basement/crawl space if it's accessible then take it outside and run a garden hose through it or shop vac it out. This has several benefits;


-I can make sure it is perfectly clean
-I can show the customer what was in there and how clean it will be
-I can put new pipe in if the old stuff is too sticky or it's galvanized steel/cast iron
-I show the customer how to take off the ferncos or no-hub connectors so they can clean it in the future.


I know that last one may sound sacrilegious to some of you but round here very few customers will go ahead and do that themselves next time so they still call us. And when they do call us again they won't argue about wether or not the job was done right or will be done right. I strive for transparency with my customers. When they trust me my job is a whole lot easier.


I feel your pain tango, up there in the cold north with a bunch of folks who can't or won't(mostly won't) understand what you're trying to tell them. Luckily I see relatively few of those.

 

[skoronesa]

My co-worker used to do that kind of half -assed [email protected]^& when he came across a galvanized trap arm and had to redo the sink drains and strainers.

Leave the end attached to the galvanized and try to mate up a tubular trap to it with a fkload of pipe dope.

I'm not sure I mentioned this before, but this guy used to be an employee of the local port. Someone let him wire up some kind of contraption for battery charging for one of the commercial fishing rigs. At the time he was trying to get into the electrical apprenticeship.

Well he burned the boat down with that garbage, and that was the end of that. The plumbing apprenticeship took him right in though. :vs_laugh:

Maybe he knew they had real good insurance.....

 

[skoronesa]

You don't need to wipe the solder booger off if you dont want to, it looks bad but it wont hurt anything. Yes, you do need to clean off the flux with at least some water. I usually take a moist rag and clean it while it's still hot but the solder is set so you wont mess up the joint. I used to wipe the excess solder off with a dry rag and still do at times but I try to use the end of my solder to grab the extra so I dont move everything and mess up the joint.

As for bending copper, that is fine depending on the copper. I would never bend M, it's too thin to begin with. We usually get mueller stream line which you can bend on a 2-5/8 radius just fine using a bender. Or if you have arms of steel you can do smaller sets.

 

[skoronesa]

Looks good to me 🙄

Someone needs to hang a sign on that which says "Plumbed by a jackazz".

 

[skoronesa]

Looks good to me 🙄

Now that I see it on the bigger screen what really ticks me off is that it seems to be no-hub and should be really easy to fix.


I was going to say "the big screen" but I can't call my 14" laptop screen "the big screen" when I have a 5' television in the living room! lolz


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