[AKdaplumba]

I havent seen this tub yet but the tenant says this pop up doesnt work anymore. I think its about 50 years old. My solution will probably use a rubber stopper. Without tearing out drywall, is there a way to repair this style? Again l havent seen it yet just have the picture.
Thanks

 

[Logtec]

You’re prob dealing with this type of set up, you just might need to remove then clean and grease the moving parts.
“If” you can find parts for it it’s an easy fix..
A reg rubber stopper won’t work unless you can get the drain cover off.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

Take this brand trip lever. It’s a little large than most and covers where the old one was nicely.

Clean the linkage and very lightly sand the corrosion off the barrel ( stopper) on the bottom of the linkage. Lightly lube it up like that chic you met on tinder.


Check this out!
https://a.co/d/34t8Bt8

 

[PlumberPhil]

I almost always just put a cover plate and a lift and turn style drain. Hate those old style tub drains🤮

 

[ROCKSTARPLUMBER]

I almost always just put a cover plate and a lift and turn style drain. Hate those old style tub drains🤮

Thats right dude. Bust out the turbo torch, heat that 80yrs old putty up under that drain and turn her out like butter man. 100% of the time, it works every time. Not full on heat, but get it warm, real warm.

 

[skoronesa]

If you can't access the back and it's stuck then you can try some acid down the overflow to clean the corrosion off the plunger. They tend to rust themselves in place if they go unused.

If it is stuck and won't pull up you can also put a hook on a piece of chain and try to go fishing. I use some 1/2" welded link chain and a rubber strap hook bent smaller and cut to a sharp hook. If you manage to hook the plunger you can put a screwdriver through the chain at the overflow opening and use it as a lever to pull the chain upward.

 

[jakewilcox]

At this point, these are so old that you should at least consider changing the waste and overflow. If you mess with it too much it is bound to leak (then it will be your fault and you will get to hear about/deal with that). I waste and overflows last 10-15 years and I don’t think those have been installed regularly since the 1990s.

I remember my old boss telling me that “I can’t teach you how to adjust that.” And he was right. You just have to feel it and do it.

 

[PlumberPhil]

Thats right dude. Bust out the turbo torch, heat that 80yrs old putty up under that drain and turn her out like butter man. 100% of the time, it works every time. Not full on heat, but get it warm, real warm.

Not the same brand, but I've used this style the past 15yrs, works everytime. Had to use breaker bar a couple times, but this bad boy hasn't failed me yet.

 

[ROCKSTARPLUMBER]

Not the same brand, but I've used this style the past 15yrs, works everytime. Had to use breaker bar a couple times, but this bad boy hasn't failed me yet.

Heat it up some with your torch next time. I was being serious. Obviously you don’t want to heat it to the point it melts the threads in the shoe, but a little bit of heat and it’ll come right out. Won’t hurt the porcelain.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

I repair them all the time because the trip lever freezes up or it breaks. The brass plunger can get stuck in the overflow tube. Skoro already explained how to remove it.

Sometimes the linkage/yoke needs to be replaced.

I’ve worked on them that were older than me.

I have 5-6 brand new brass trip lever overflow assemblies in stock. Pfister brand, good quality. Been using them for yrs. Basic plumbing for around here.

A lot of people use the cheaper plastic ones with the pot metal drain. Some use the sch 40 half kits, I have some on the shelf.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

If you try to remove the tub shoe strainer you run the risk of spinning the tub shoe under the tub. The piping can come apart.

At that point you’ll need to access under the tub to replace it all.

 

[hewhodigsholes]

Heat it up some with your torch next time. I was being serious. Obviously you don’t want to heat it to the point it melts the threads in the shoe, but a little bit of heat and it’ll come right out. Won’t hurt the porcelain.

What about the new fiberglass/acrylic tubs?

 

[ROCKSTARPLUMBER]

What about the new fiberglass/acrylic tubs?

Well you said it there HWDH, "NEW", not as locked in and corroded shut as older ones the OP was describing. But, you could still carefully heat it up from the inside of the drain, i'd try it if one was being stubborn.

 

[jakewilcox]

What about the new fiberglass/acrylic tubs?

What about the new fiberglass/acrylic tubs?

Heat it up and breathe deeply.

Then none of it will matter.

 

[skoronesa]

A lot of people use the cheaper plastic ones with the pot metal drain. Some use the sch 40 half kits, I have some on the shelf.

I keep a Gerber# G0041813 Roman Bath Drain Trip Lever in Chrome on the van along with some other internal tub waste parts. It will fit a large range of tub sizes. It's about as cheap as you can get while still being quality brass with brass nuts. I really like the overflow seal.

The only time we install plastic tub wastes is when they are specific to that model with no better alternative. Most tubs these days don't have access panels..... until they leak of course.

 

[ROCKSTARPLUMBER]

we almost always never install trip lever waste. A few with the twist knob overflow with the external cable every now and then if the customer provides. but never just to provide one. And no one uses chrome anymore around here. Brushed brass, and black are in style here right now. Really like the brushed brass. that **** is fire.

 

[PlumberPhil]

What about the new fiberglass/acrylic tubs?

Just call the burnt area patina 🤣🤣🤣

 

[Logtec]

You can use a stopper that is made of rubber or plastic and can be locked into the drain. It has a rubber tube attached to the stopper. Once you shut down the water, you can pull up the stopper, make the necessary changes, and then submerge the stopper back into the tub. Also you can use a rubber stopper, as it does not require you to make a hole in the tub. There is a rubber ring that is attached to a clamp which is attached to the tub. The stopper is inside of this ring. As the water level rises in the tub, the rubber ring is pushed back and allows water to drain down the drain. Whenever there is no more water, then this ring is pushed back into the groove and blocks out of the tub.

Wtf are you going on about?

 

[AKdaplumba]

I lubed the trip lever so now it works. The tenant wants to know if there is a way to keep it open for showers. My first thought is to remove the stopper but then baths cant be taken. Any thoughts?

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

I lubed the trip lever so now it works. The tenant wants to know if there is a way to keep it open for showers. My first thought is to remove the stopper but then baths cant be taken. Any thoughts?

The trip lever should stay down by itself.

If it’s not staying down by itself the entire faceplate needs to be replaced.