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Why not just use good flanges instead of all plastic crap? We always use flanges with metal bolt rings. But we also have lots of old houses and have to assume the toilet will move. I have replaced many cracked all plastic flanges.

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because you dont own your own company and dont do bid new work..thats why...
 

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I end up using threaded lags right into the wood/slab when these plastic flanges break. They're all garbage. Gotta use ones with metal bolt flanges.

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If there's wood maybe! Here new construction for the last 30 years the guys cut a square hole with a chainsaw and good luck screwing the flange in thin air.
 

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because you dont own your own company and dont do bid new work..thats why...
Correct, I don't bid new work, my bosses spec stainless flanges.

Almost no one around here uses the all plastic flanges, it's seen as hacky. If 10$ on a toilet flange makes or breaks your bid I give you my sympathies.
 

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Correct, I don't bid new work, my bosses spec stainless flanges.

Almost no one around here uses the all plastic flanges, it's seen as hacky. If 10$ on a toilet flange makes or breaks your bid I give you my sympathies.
10$!! New construction it's 3.50$ x 400 houses/year = 2600$ saving's in the boss' pockets or he can bid 2600$ less than the competitor. Now skip the valves, cheat on the lack of hammer arrestors, cheap faucets, cheap fixtures and we are talking a whole lot of money. Oh yeah don't supply screws to your guys and tell them to steal from the drywall guys!
 

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If there's wood maybe! Here new construction for the last 30 years the guys cut a square hole with a chainsaw and good luck screwing the flange in thin air.
You can use toggle bolt nuts but with rod instead. I have 3/8" stainless rod we get for pumps. I had to do that on a slab where they put lots of wraps of cardboard around the pipe before they poured the concrete so there was no concrete around the pipe. Of course I had to drill the holes in the bolt flange bigger. I was using a split stainless repair flange that has more meat so it worked out good. I got the rods in and filled the gap with hydraulic cement and immediately put the bolt flange on hand tight. Gave it 10mins and tightened them more.

Luckily the tile was 3/8" thick and not just the standard 1/4" stuff. It was a small bathroom in an ambulance garage and some tile guy did the floor as a donation to the town using leftover fancy tile from a job.

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10$!! New construction it's 3.50$ x 400 houses/year = 2600$ saving's.......
That would be a valid point if we were doing track housing. We do houses in the 5k-25k sq. ft. range.

We do higher end work and the customers expect quality. I would guess that's why our service ends up being more profitable as well. A couple weeks ago I replaced a 364$(cost to us) thermostatic waterworks cartridge made in france. Lord only knows what the customer got charged.
 

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Correct, I don't bid new work, my bosses spec stainless flanges.

Almost no one around here uses the all plastic flanges, it's seen as hacky. If 10$ on a toilet flange makes or breaks your bid I give you my sympathies.
multiply that $10 with dozens of flanges and every other fitting...those small amounts add up to BIG numbers when your doing volume.....your few flanges a week wont make a difference and your billing it out at the flange price...you wont win any bids for new work that way..
 

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multiply that $10 with dozens of flanges and every other fitting...those small amounts add up to BIG numbers when your doing volume.........

That would be a valid point if we were doing track housing. We do houses in the 5k-25k sq. ft. range.


We do higher end work and the customers expect quality. I would guess that's why our service ends up being more profitable as well. A couple weeks ago I replaced a 364$(cost to us) thermostatic waterworks cartridge made in france. Lord only knows what the customer got charged.
 

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multiply that $10 with dozens of flanges and every other fitting...those small amounts add up to BIG numbers when your doing volume.....your few flanges a week wont make a difference and your billing it out at the flange price...you wont win any bids for new work that way..
You’re right, that’s why I only do new construction by the hour and I bill the rough in/top out materials. The last few have been an open check, just send the bill at the end of each phase and they cut the check.
 

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You’re right, that’s why I only do new construction by the hour and I bill the rough in/top out materials. The last few have been an open check, just send the bill at the end of each phase and they cut the check.
maybe in your area, that wont fly here, but I havent done much in new houses for some time...you bid it and own it for that price, unless there are changes with work orders...
 

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There’s a shortage of quality individuals to install high end plumbing here.
Same here. We ain't been fully staffed in a decade. Every time we get enough guys we get even more work.

We've tried everything, most new hires fall flat within the first 6 months.
They seem great at first but I guess operating at full capacity is difficult for most people these days to keep up.

The 20yr olds out of tech school don't know anything and can't handle the sudden influx of cash from the good paying job without it going to their head.

The 30yr olds tend to relapse or call out because of a significant other.

The 40yr olds are too preoccupied with a failing marriage.

The 50yr olds can't keep up like they used to and seem to be looking for a "relaxing" job.

The 60yr olds are just trying to eek out a couple more years and at best get fed up with working full time like they have for decades.
 
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Il Lic. Plumber
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Discussion Starter #35
I never had a call back for a broken flange in over 30 years..so ill keep doing it my way...
I would not want anyone to change the way they are doing things, just want to see what others think
 
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Discussion Starter #38
Another thing the flange is too low, should be 1/4"-3/8" above floor.
It will be when I finish, start of a remodel
 
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Il Lic. Plumber
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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks for the responses guys . In 33 years I have never been beaten by a flange where I could not get 5/16" Johnny bolts in the U shaped slots regardless of concrete, tile , hardwood (these idiots actually use hardwood in bathrooms). Don't you guys have a hammer and a flat screwdriver in the van? Take longer sometimes,,, yes . I charge by the hour. If I had a dollar for every broken flange I have seen because they used it the way in the picture. You have to make this stuff monkey proof. Us pros aren't the only ones touching this stuff. I only use 5/16" bolts . I also shim toilet before tightening and caulk around base after tightening to hold soft vinyl shims in place .
Surprised at all the responses that said what if you are a little off . Well if you are worried about being a little off you better keep using the adjustable slots . I would never expect anyone to change the way they are doing things . More than one way to skin a cat ,,, oops, quite a few cat lovers on here.
Like stirring the pot keep em coming
 
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Discussion Starter #40
In Illinois they will let us use a 4"X3" elbow where you can bring 4 " pipe up above finished floor level .Flooring guy can floor tight to 4 " pipe and then I can come back after, cut pipe with internal pipe cutter and then glue flange in place above Flooring. I really like doing it this way . Flooring guys like it also.
 
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