[Protech]

Replaced a 19gal side outlet with this new top outlet.

This mobile home had polybutylene pipe with grey fittings. I'm not sure if they are acetyl fittings or not but they look like it. The HO is the original owner and has never had even one leak. They are on chlorinated city water at about 65PSI. I talked to some of her neighbors and they have not had any leaks ether.

I noticed that the heater is made in Mexico (after I had it installed) which really pisses me off as I was told by my supplier that all of the heaters they sell are made in the USA and are union made.

 

[Protech]

see

 

[ILPlumber]

Where do the relief valves drain to?

I realize this prolly meets code in your area. I'm just curious.

I love IL code.

 

[Protech]

Under the mobile home.

 

[Protech]

Let me guess, they make you run it to the outside of the building or a drain up there.

Why?

 

[ILPlumber]

Let me guess, they make you run it to the outside of the building or a drain up there.

Why?

:laughing:

To be run to a FD or other approved receptor in the same room. No more than 5 feet away. Fixed air gap.

:thumbup:

 

[Protech]

So you have to run a trap primer to then? What's the reason that it can't just discharge onto the ground(under the home or outside of it)?

Please don’t tell me “cuz it’s against code”. WHY is it against code. What is the reasoning behind the code.

 

[Protech]

What happens when the valve finally goes 10 years down the road for whatever reason and that drain has been stopped up from years of none use and solids buildup? Yeah, that much better then letting some potable water fall on the ground

:laughing:

To be run to a FD or other approved receptor in the same room. No more than 5 feet away. Fixed air gap.

:thumbup:

 

[ILPlumber]

If the T&P pops, the discharge will be noticed and repaired.

You could have a trap primer. Most guys just use vegetable oil.

A FD by a WH never hurts anyway.

I want to be crystal clear, I am not knocking your work. You do good work.

I find the code differences across the country pretty humorous.

 

[TheMaster]

You guys can use pex to run a relief line? I thought the code stated it must not be restricted and that insert pex fitting is a restriction. We cant use plastic pans either...even on electric

 

[Protech]

The master. Can you explain your logic?

ILpulmber. If you'll notice, the t/p does have a means of visual inspection of the drain.

 

[Plumber Jim]

I thought plastic pans are ok for electrics. But I do gas heaters here so not sure.

 

[Protech]

I can't speak for your code, but ours says that the t/p must be the same as the inlet size.

Why couldn't one use a plastic pan on an electric heater?

Pex will work just fine even with boiling water running thru it provided that it's not under much pressure.

You guys can use pex to run a relief line? I thought the code stated it must not be restricted and that insert pex fitting is a restriction. We cant use plastic pans either...even on electric

 

[Ron]

You guys can use pex to run a relief line? I thought the code stated it must not be restricted and that insert pex fitting is a restriction. We cant use plastic pans either...even on electric

608.5 Relief valves shall be provided with a fullsized drain, not smaller than the relief valve outlet, of galvanized steel or hard drawn copper, CPVC piping and fittings and shall extend from the valve to a discharge location which will avoid the hazard to persons or damage to property. Discharge locations outside of the building shall be not less than 6 inches (152 mm) above the ground or the flood level of the area receiving the discharge, and shall not terminate between 2 feet (610 mm) and 16 feet (4880 mm) above the ground or above any other area where persons may normally be present.

 

[TheMaster]

I can't speak for your code, but ours says that the t/p must be the same as the inlet size.

Why couldn't one use a plastic pan on an electric heater?

Pex will work just fine even with boiling water running thru it provided that it's not under much pressure.

Well thats just it...its not the same size as the inlet. The inlet is a full 3/4 id and the pex fitting is not. The city will not allow a plastic water heater pan period here. They can crack from dry rot before the heater pops! Especially in attics and closed in spaces

 

[ILPlumber]

Is that excerpt FL code or Oregon code?

 

[Ron]

Oregon Code

 

[Protech]

Interesting stuff but it ain't from my code:no:

608.5 Relief valves shall be provided with a fullsized drain, not smaller than the relief valve outlet, of galvanized steel or hard drawn copper, CPVC piping and fittings and shall extend from the valve to a discharge location which will avoid the hazard to persons or damage to property. Discharge locations outside of the building shall be not less than 6 inches (152 mm) above the ground or the flood level of the area receiving the discharge, and shall not terminate between 2 feet (610 mm) and 16 feet (4880 mm) above the ground or above any other area where persons may normally be present.

 

[Ron]

Our codes are more strict here.

 

[Protech]

Hmm, you must see something I don't because I see pex fittings on the inlet pipe that have the same ID as the one on the T/P

Well thats just it...its not the same size as the inlet. The inlet is a full 3/4 id and the pex fitting is not. The city will not allow a plastic water heater pan period here. They can crack from dry rot before the heater pops! Especially in attics and closed in spaces