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Discussion Starter #3
I know a couple of guys that use them, their call back rate is lower than mine (clears roots better). Also its nice to be able to replace 15 ft sections of cable rather than a 100 ft (or risk splicing) when you get a bad kink.
 

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Magic Touch III LLC
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Switching to a sectional

I also have a K1500A....I like this machine very much....The best tip I could give you is to make sure you lubricate the male ends of the cable and to be sure they click in and lock when your connecting cable sections together...I also run water into the line as I pull out as that helps to clean the cable off...There is also a grease fitting inside the machine near the chutch handle...its hard to see..I keep that greased up too...Tom
 

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I know a couple of guys that use them, their call back rate is lower than mine (clears roots better). Also its nice to be able to replace 15 ft sections of cable rather than a 100 ft (or risk splicing) when you get a bad kink.

Seems like overkill to me ??? But then again I'm not familiar with the types of jobs your doing day in and day out. I think that if used properly a lesser machine would do the same job clearing the line 90%+ of the time, although It would come in handy on the BIG/TOUGH root jobs.

I run 25' sections in my drum machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Seems like overkill to me ??? But then again I'm not familiar with the types of jobs your doing day in and day out. I think that if used properly a lesser machine would do the same job clearing the line 90%+ of the time, although It would come in handy on the BIG/TOUGH root jobs.

I run 25' sections in my drum machine.

you're probably right, technique has a lot to do with it.. I guess my rational is that the larger machine can handle the crazy situations as well as the normal situations.
 

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I have always been a fan of multiple machines on a truck so you are using the right machine for the job rather than just using what happens to be on the truck. Because of this our go back rate on drains were almost non-existent.

The K-1500 is probably one of the most efficient drain cleaning machines there is for main line stoppages. More than just the power available is the design of the cable which allows the entire length of the cable to clean as well.

Mark
 
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I Married Up
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The 1500 is a great machine. There are a couple of things that you need to know.

1. Buy the machine and cable separate.
2. Get C-14 cable...not the C-11 that comes with the kit.
3. Get a minimum of 12 (180') sections (with 3 baskets). A fourth basket of 60' if you can afford it.
4. NEVER use the straight auger from Ridgid. In rare instances, the funnel and straight augers might help retrieve something but it is VERY rare. I don't remember ever really needing them in the last 20 years.
5. Buy one extra C-14 cable and cut it off about 24" or more from the female end. Bend it slightly at the end and use that for your whip.
6. The only other heads you would normally need with the 1500 would be T-50-1 "C" cutter for 3" & 4" pipe, T-50-2 "C" cutter for 6" pipe.
7. NEVER use the machine without a guide hose. Over time, you will damage the shaft. You could buy an extra guide hose bracket and clamp it on a piece of 1-1/2" PVC. Sometimes this is preferable to the hose and takes up less space but NEVER run cable without something hanging on the back. That shaft costs over $400 to replace.
8. Always use Ridgid's mitt.
9. Let the machine do the work. Don't force the cable and always be mindful of the cable's tendency to feed in and out based on the direction it is spinning.
10. In general, always run the machine in forward. Reverse will allow the cable to drill into a root mass or through the wall of the pipe which results in an Excedrin moment.
11. Use reverse to pop past a fitting or rough spot but be cautious.
12. Pull the cable back and forth as you go in to be sure it is spinning free and not hung up. This is until you get a feel for it. After a while, you'll be able to feel trouble before it is too late.

All in all, probably one of the best and toughest main line sewer machines on the market.
 

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The 1500 is a great machine. There are a couple of things that you need to know.

1. Buy the machine and cable separate.
2. Get C-14 cable...not the C-11 that comes with the kit.
3. Get a minimum of 12 (180') sections (with 3 baskets). A fourth basket of 60' if you can afford it.
4. NEVER use the straight auger from Ridgid. In rare instances, the funnel and straight augers might help retrieve something but it is VERY rare. I don't remember ever really needing them in the last 20 years.
5. Buy one extra C-14 cable and cut it off about 24" or more from the female end. Bend it slightly at the end and use that for your whip.
6. The only other heads you would normally need with the 1500 would be T-50-1 "C" cutter for 3" & 4" pipe, T-50-2 "C" cutter for 6" pipe.
7. NEVER use the machine without a guide hose. Over time, you will damage the shaft. You could buy an extra guide hose bracket and clamp it on a piece of 1-1/2" PVC. Sometimes this is preferable to the hose and takes up less space but NEVER run cable without something hanging on the back. That shaft costs over $400 to replace.
8. Always use Ridgid's mitt.
9. Let the machine do the work. Don't force the cable and always be mindful of the cable's tendency to feed in and out based on the direction it is spinning.
10. In general, always run the machine in forward. Reverse will allow the cable to drill into a root mass or through the wall of the pipe which results in an Excedrin moment.
11. Use reverse to pop past a fitting or rough spot but be cautious.
12. Pull the cable back and forth as you go in to be sure it is spinning free and not hung up. This is until you get a feel for it. After a while, you'll be able to feel trouble before it is too late.

All in all, probably one of the best and toughest main line sewer machines on the market.
Great assessment!

Mark
 

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All we use for outside drain cleaning is the K1500.

I do disagree with some of the above statements. On an unfamiliar sewer, I use the T1 straight auger in the line first. It gives you an idea of the problem. Then, I will use either the T3 funnel cutter, most of the time, or the T9 grease cutter.

I use the T50 series sharktooth cutter on clay lines with roots. They wear out way fast on cast iron, so I usually use the grase cutter on cast iron.

And I do not get callbacks. Period.

(course, I'll prolly have 5 tomorrow,:laughing:)

Oh yeah, I have never needed more than 135' of cable. If I ever do, I will install a cleanout in the line. Too much risk, too much money in the pipe if something happens. I can see it now, my guy would call from a 60' sewer, telling me he can't understand why it isn't open, with 300' of cable in it. It would either be a big ball in the main, or septic tank, or wrapped around a customers bedspread. :yes:
 

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...I use the T1 straight auger in the line first. It gives you an idea of the problem....
The main reason I don't use the auger from Ridgid is they are wound in the opposite direction of the cable. So if it gets outside the pipe with the machine in forward, it will continue to drill in. Then when you reverse the machine, the cable will be trying to drill in when your trying to get the auger to unscrew. Using a piece of cable as a whip means it is all either going in or coming out...not both at the same time. Of course not drilling out of the pipe solves the issue too. :yes:
 

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٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶&#
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I've never needed anything bigger than a k-60 on residential and light comercial. Unless you frequently need to get in 6" lines, there is really no need to get a machine (k-1500) with more weight/space and less versatility.
 

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The Old (antique) Master
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Kudos to a friend ... Competior who needed help!

The 1500 is a great machine. <SNIP>


Friend Al called one day asked if he could borrow my Kollman 1500 [It has been here a long time]. I said sure is your Ridgid down for repairs?
No he said we got into something big, machine stalls out forward and what ever we are in we can't back out. I'm going to try to piggy back the machines. Two machines on the same cable gave him the power he needed.
He broke through and went on to finish up.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've never needed anything bigger than a k-60 on residential and light comercial. Unless you frequently need to get in 6" lines, there is really no need to get a machine (k-1500) with more weight/space and less versatility.
yea its all 6-8in clay sewers over here, we got a guy that has the k-60, he said it doesn't have the umph needed, but it is smaller and he doesn't clean many drains these days anyway
 

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Seems like overkill to me ??? But then again I'm not familiar with the types of jobs your doing day in and day out. I think that if used properly a lesser machine would do the same job clearing the line 90%+ of the time, although It would come in handy on the BIG/TOUGH root jobs.

I run 25' sections in my drum machine.

My co-workers think running smaller sections is a liability. I'm not convinced, have you ever lost a section in a pipe?
 

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There is also a universal guide hose that helps protect floors and such from the cable that i recommend, Its called the***.. I think it's the***.com

Interesting. Last week when you posted on the Ridgid Forum you knew exactly what the web address was.


verlandavis

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Re: K-60 Guide Hose

let me give the right link,http://www.NOT.com , this is a very universal tool!! I'm the inventor and just wanted to make ur job easier! I also have several accessories that will be available shortly!!


I don't know if your product is great or not but at least be honest.

Mark
 
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