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Can hydropressure lock water at a higher elevation?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

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  • Yes, with condition

    Votes: 4 100.0%
  • No, not possible

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www.DunbarPlumbing.com
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Emergency call, sump pump replacement, put in a N53 with adjustable float switch

Contracted to go back to put in a battery backup, installed a month later

Both systems operating without a hitch, till this past 3 days of rain

Since I was installing the battery backup electively, and wasn't in the midst of fast flow in the pit, I must of raised the primary switch level inside the pit.

Now, I set those float switches (no longer a M53 fan) in the range of the footer drains entering the pit, I tend to set the on cycle towards the HIGHER point of those pipes, rather than the lower, because of turbulence created by incoming water entering the pit.

This way I'm ranging the switch to pull from the largest pool of water table under the slab without affecting/creating hydropressure that would cause the slabs to raise in a basement. If you don't think that can happen, you're sadly mistaken.

Now the "top" of the pipes entering into the sump crock is nearly 12"-16" down into the floor. It would be reasonable to figure the slabs are poured at 4" but inconsistencies would range from 3" to 12" in spots, especially if they didn't spray the subgrade with portland and pea gravel is almost impossible to keep from moving when concrete is pouring in, pounding a massive hole into the subgrade.

This customer of mine just called, said that I had set the switch too high in the pit for the primary and the water would not raise high enough to engage the switch to kick on. It was 'right on' the spot where just a 1/4" to an 1" of rise in the pit would of raised and set the switch off.

What it was doing was locking 8' of column height water in the window wells on the back side of the house, looking like it was an aquarium outside. Water did leak in, water did get underneath a floating floor. The customer instantly told me he lowered the switch 4" and resolved the issue immediately dropping the water out of window wells.

Just last week, they said the kids were at the opposite side of the basement watching tv and the pillows on the floor were getting wet.


All this points to my mistake, that I must of raised the primary switch accidentally when I installed the secondary pump, not realizing I took it out of range inside the crock pit. We've had some monsoons of rain and this is the only one I've had issue with.

Customer made the change, I asked if he wanted me to file a claim and he said no. I told him I was more than willing to compensate him for his time and aggravation and I explained that the very best scenario when setting the level on a switch in a pit, is when water is aggressively entering the pit so I can match the best location to gain the largest body of water, so the switch doesn't engage repeatedly because of short cycling.


As strange as it may be, that column water holding 8' above the head of that pump, even though it's an open water surface in the pit, was locking water at a higher elevation into those window wells.

I agree with the setting being wrong on the switch...it was a slight of hand mistake that I must of done to get around that wye connection installed in the pit for the secondary pump connection.

All the time I've been writing this, 1 sump pump replacement came in, one toilet replacement and 2 customers wondering when I'm set to arrive. BOOO-YAAAAAAH!!!!!!
 

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Wow, since that customer was so nice, & actually had brains enough to adjust the float himself, so you didn't have to drive back out there, is not going to make a claim with your insurance, & did not want a refund. I think you should give him a free Wolverine Brass faucet.:laughing:
 
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