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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Question for Camillo or saveonsolar.

What method was used to seal this roof penetration in this job you did? It doesn't look like any flashing of any kind was used. It looks like some sealant was used but that's about it. If you did use a flashing, how the heck did you get it under the shingles that far up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Similar question here. How did you seal these penetrations around the pvc pipe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kenneth Zapen Not trying to knit pick your work or start anything but.....isn't the first collector gong to shade the second one during the winter? I don’t know the angle they are set at and I’m too drunk and lazy right now to look up your latitude. Again, just asking, not trying to get into it with you :eek:)

Yesterday at 10:52pm ·

Camilo Gomez not only that but do you see the tree in the background? this install was not a Saving Oahu's Solar install, I was helping another company and this is how they do their thing.... no quality control.

Yesterday at 11:16pm · Report


Kenneth Zapen Oh, ok.

Yesterday at 11:22pm ·


Camilo Gomez just fyi Kenneth, we're 2 feet apart from panel to panel (rear to front)... and they're at a 2 foot lift... our latitude here is 21 degrees, so the panels would not shade each other. BUT, there are a lot of issues with this job that really shouldn't be practiced. Again as I said... it's one of those things where I was helping another contractor and he does things his way, you know how it is.

12 hours ago · Report


Kenneth Zapen Actually, if your latitude is 21 that means that it's 36 degrees in the middle of winter. Assuming a 2' lift and 2' spacing that would mean the sun would have to have an angle of 67.5 degrees with respect to the ground or more to NOT shade the bottom of the back collector. Since the sun has an angle of 54 degrees at high noon in the middle of winter there, that means the back panel is going to be shaded a bit in the winter.

Good thing someone else designed it.


45 minutes ago ·
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I saw this a week ago. T/p drain common with pressure relief valve drain back pitched. CPVC plastic male adapters threaded into both the T/P valve and the pressure relief valve leaking like a stuck pig.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also on the same house.

No freeze valve. no air vent valve. "flashing" made of wood? :blink:
 

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Professional Bullshioter
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When did you visit Oahu Ken? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here is a solar water heater that I just looked at in Kissimmee Florida. The home is a rental and the landlord left the home vacant over the winter with the water and power turned of WITHOUT draining the collector down. Bad move. This is the downside of direct systems. They are inexpensive, very efficient and low/no maintenance……..expect that you have to keep the water turned up when we have a cold winter. It still paid for itself several times over. It was originally installed in 1998 as you can see on the heater tag. I don’t like how the flashings were mounted. They should have been slid up under the shingles. When that flashing sealant finally does go bad in another few years water is going to run right under that flashing…….but then again the roof will need to be replaced at that age anyway….meh… whatever.

You can see the steam shooting out of the freeze splits when I had the HO turn the loop valves on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
mo pics still.

If you'll notice, the pump is mounted above the tank like it usually is. The pump still works after 12 years :whistling2:
 

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philosopher and statesmen
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probably treated lumber

uote=plumbpro;111565]that is actually a block of wood,...:blink: huh...interesting.[/quote]

I am sure its treated lumber with a litle tar pitch smeared on it...:laughing::laughing:

that is fine quality workmanship .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Last set of pics for this heater.

No motorized check valve. Not a good idea. When the freeze valve goes off there is nothing to direct the flow into the bottom of the collector instead of going up the return side and bypassing it. Heat losses due to night thermo siphoning will be significant as well.
 

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Do you get called for R&R when a home needs shingled?

Are there unions on the units for this purpose?
 
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philosopher and statesmen
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uote=plumbpro;111565]that is actually a block of wood,...:blink: huh...interesting.
I am sure its treated lumber with a litle tar pitch smeared on it...:laughing::laughing:

that is fine quality workmanship .....[/quote]
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes.

We don't install unions anymore because if there are unions it encourages the roofer to attempt to play plumber himself. Then the system doesn't work or is damaged and the homeowner ends up paying dearly for it.

Do you get called for R&R when a home needs shingled?

Are there unions on the units for this purpose?
 

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That would be a great place for a brass left and right coupling:laughing:
 
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