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This is nothing extraordinary for plumbers who do slab leaks. But I posted it for those plumbers up North where there are a lot of basements and those plumbers don't get to see slab leaks.

Another company {ALD} did the locate and then I got called out to do the repair. I was just double-checking the locate with my equipment. On occasion, and it isn't often, but it has happened, I'll go out where someone else did the locate and they are way, way off.


One time I show up with my jackhammer to break the slab. I break open the slab where the elec. leak detection technician marked the floor. Not only was there no leak where he marked, but there weren't even any pipes!......:vs_laugh: So, I made a hole in someone's concrete floor in the middle of their living room for nothing.
 

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The tracing lug on all the ridgid monitors is for any locator transmitter sold on the market, hook one lead from the transmitter to a ground stake and the other to the monitor lug, set the freq for whatever you want and you have just lit up the seesnake push cable to trace instead of the sonde in the camera or you can have the sonde on and trace both at the same time if you want. Even the oldest monitors from any brand that don't have the lug spot to connect you just wrapped the monitor to camera connection cable like 4 wraps around your fist and can use the current clamp from any transmitter and the same thing will happen

Thanks for that information. Do you have a preference on which brand is best? I will most likely be using it on water lines. Is it correct that I could wrap it around the snake cable and trace it that way?




I don't know about you guys and what you have for equipment but let me tell you something important. I have the ridgid seesnake cs6 pak 100' camera. I also have the yellow ridgid locator with 4 antennae that comes with the transmitter pack and inductive clamp.


When I connect the transmitter to the antenna lug on the back of the camera it freaks out and crashes and I have to take out the battery to restart it.


I haven't tried the inductive clamp but at this point I am not willing too.






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OOPS........ Did you miss it on the first locate??????
 

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OOPS........ Did you miss it on the first locate??????







Yes. I was off, but I tell my customers that elec. leak detection is not like Superman's X-ray vision; I can't see the pipes through the concrete. We as elec. leak detection plumbers have to listen to what our equipment tells us then interpret that to locate the burst pipe.

So I couldn't {or didn't want to} cut the bottom of his cabinet when I did the elec. leak detection.

After breaking a hole in front of the kitchen cabinet, I turned on the water and it took about a minute for water to start entering the hole. So I knew that I was very close.

Even Amer. Leak Detection will tell customers that they'll be within 1 foot. So there is a margin of error of about a foot or so.



Side note. I did a slab leak repair at a local animal hospital last month. Amer. Leak Detection did the locate. They were off by about 10'. I jackhammered the slab on their blue X, and not only was the soil not wet, but there weren't even any pipes there....LOL. And the vet was charged $500.00! I eventually found the leak and repaired it for the veterinarian.
 

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For those who point out, and rightly so, that the code requires copper to copper joints to be brazed below slab, I will point out that they soft-soldered all the joints below slab way back in the day.

And the joints are still holding {the tee is a 3/4"x 3/4"x1/2"}. It was the pipe itself that burst not the joint.
 

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Then I have to do this repair next week.

This customer has a hot leak under the laundry room floor. The hot water is also bleeding under the garage floor which is adjacent to the laundry room.

Slab leaks are very un-nerving for people. Some are nearly in a state of panic due to a slab leak.
Infra red camera picked up 88 degree hot spots on the floor.


UGH!!!! Such a pain that the damn pictures are always rotated in the wrong direction. Sorry guys.
 

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Well heck, next time take those dang X-ray glasses along........:wink:

Not a fun task. Do you also use a stethoscope to try to fine tune the location?
 

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For those who point out, and rightly so, that the code requires copper to copper joints to be brazed below slab, I will point out that they soft-soldered all the joints below slab way back in the day.

And the joints are still holding {the tee is a 3/4"x 3/4"x1/2"}. It was the pipe itself that burst not the joint.



You say burst, do you mean erosion or corrosion? I am sure it didn't freeze!


How high is the pressure there?






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You say burst, do you mean erosion or corrosion? I am sure it didn't freeze!


How high is the pressure there?






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Burst is a term that gets people's attention....LOL.

Yes, I mean corrosion. Probably the acid flux back in the day or not reaming pipe or soil acidity?

Yes Tango, slab leaks are profitable jobs.
Our city pressure is running at about 50 psi.
 

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Burst is a term that gets people's attention....LOL.

Yes, I mean corrosion. Probably the acid flux back in the day or not reaming pipe or soil acidity?

Yes Tango, slab leaks are profitable jobs.
Our city pressure is running at about 50 psi.





Only 50psi? Are there ever flow issues? Here "city" pressure is between 70-95psi, some places near pump stations it can reach 120psi.




50psi sounds great as long as the piping is sized properly under the street.








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