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what code do you go by?
Kentucky allows tees on their backs,hell if you do many undergrounds you would know that you can't always use a wye and 45 turned straight up on its back,it's to tall,your ditch would have to so much deeper just to get one fitting below the slab,you have to install tees on their backs or sides at 45 degrees,if you use wyes and 45s that sticks up what 20inches or more???way to tall for underground work
 

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The leak was on the 1-1/2" lead going into the bottom of the drum trap. I could have soldered it shut but decided to just replace it ;) I cut the drum off and left the lid in place so they didn't have a hole in the floor. Unfortunately the tailpiece that was soldered to the lead was too short to reuse so I used some 1-1/4" L instead. I wasn't going to call back to the shop for that.

I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out.

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The leak was on the 1-1/2" lead going into the bottom of the drum trap. I could have soldered it shut but decided to just replace it ;) I cut the drum off and left the lid in place so they didn't have a hole in the floor. Unfortunately the tailpiece that was soldered to the lead was too short to reuse so I used some 1-1/4" L instead. I wasn't going to call back to the shop for that.

I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out.
Wow that's some serious old $hit! I'm surprised they paid, it would be a full day ordeal trying to get some pipe to fit in the chrome. Then I'd get the reply they'll call the duct tape guy.
 

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Wow that's some serious old $hit! I'm surprised they paid, it would be a full day ordeal trying to get some pipe to fit in the chrome. Then I'd get the reply they'll call the duct tape guy.
They were eating dinner when the child noticed the ceiling had developed a basketball sized balloon in the paint. The homeowner got a trashcan to pop it. Called one of our guys out on overtime to make sure it wasn't active. Manager came and punched a couple more holes to find the lead pipe leaking. Because the ceiling was sloped it looked like the toilet line was leaking which of course is a lead bend into cast iron. They had a carpenter open the whole ceiling as they are making an insurance claim. Unfortunately their insurance doesn't cover the plumbing repair, only what was water damaged, and of course there's a deductible.
 

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They were eating dinner when the child noticed the ceiling had developed a basketball sized balloon in the paint. The homeowner got a trashcan to pop it. Called one of our guys out on overtime to make sure it wasn't active. Manager came and punched a couple more holes to find the lead pipe leaking. Because the ceiling was sloped it looked like the toilet line was leaking which of course is a lead bend into cast iron. They had a carpenter open the whole ceiling as they are making an insurance claim. Unfortunately their insurance doesn't cover the plumbing repair, only what was water damaged, and of course there's a deductible.
Same here, insurance pays for damages not the plumber's bill.

A problem with insurance they are very few now that will insure a plumbing company. That and the price hike. Insurance is mandatory to keep your license, I'm very lucky to have insurance at a reasonable price other wise there was only another who would insure for more than double than what I pay. One insurance told me in order to have insurance with them I had to be in business for 10 years, F-them.
 

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"I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out."
That cast line you tied into must be over 100. Must have been fun cutting. Was it thin on the bottom?

"Depends on your tank or sewer tap lololololo that's what decides how deep or shallow you can go"
That's our problem and why we get the big bucks. The code nor it's enforcers care.
 

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Getting rid of the cast iron tree that the abs plumber left in 30 years ago and the excavation company also left in 5ish years ago. It kept clogging on them simply because of how rough it was. Also had no pitch. My picture doesn't show it well but I was able to add about a 1/2" of pitch. The two 3" abs lines are both 30'+ long.

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My manager failed to mention the customer told him the hole started to collapse with some rain we had. I did that one this morning. Fun fun, wake up and dig out 20 gallons of mud in the freezing cold. As you can see the neighbor with the backhoe couldn't be bothered to put the spoils anywhere except right next to the hole so they could easily fall in again.
In the pic with the hydrant,what is that black fitting or pipe that you used between the new brass and old galvanized pipe???doesn't look familier to me
 

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"I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out."
That cast line you tied into must be over 100. Must have been fun cutting. Was it thin on the bottom?
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It was easy to cut with the angle grinder. Only 2" cast. I cut 90% of the way through and used my beater in the seam to pry it apart and crack the remaining bit.

It was not thin at the bottom. Pre-war cast iron is quite good. Larger, longer pieces cool faster after casting and have more stress in them and a different grain structure. This means they will rust faster and when they do they will crack longways before they rust all the way through simply from the stress that was trapped in the pipe from it cooling so quickly. It gets thin enough that it rips itself apart.

Pre-war cast iron has a much higher silicon content, the stuff used to make glass. This is part of the reason it is so durable. They also let it cool more properly as opposed to the post-war wham bam thank you mam production needed to give those G.I.'s all those homes.

Most of the time when I find failed cast it's either pinholes or the top rots out from the continual condensation. The condensation is essentially distilled water which is corrosive. Occasionally I will see the bottom rot out but this is usually after the first 20" or 30' of piping, generally by the time it goes into the ground. Not sure why that is, I assume some bacterial process is making acid which eats the bottom of the pipe out.

Some of the coolest cast iron pipe/fittings I have ever seen is Dur-Iron. It has an 85% silicon content so it is mostly glass. it's used for laboratory waste piping, or was. They used asbestos instead of oakum. It's extremely heavy, and thicker than 4XH. I've never seen smaller than 2" dur-iron, I assume that's because of how thick it is. The inside diameter or 2" dur-iron is barely larger than regular 1-1/2". It looks like cast stainless steel.
 

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In the pic with the hydrant,what is that black fitting or pipe that you used between the new brass and old galvanized pipe???doesn't look familier to me
There's no galvanized fittings. That's a piece of 1" black polyethylene water piping attached to a 1" brass insert female tee. The run has a 3/4" male pex adapter with fostapex.

I said to the guy, that fostapex run looks new, the plumber didn't offer to change out the hydrant when it was dug up? He said he asked the plumber and was told if the hydrant worked don't bother. That was less than 2 months ago lolz. Some guys are too lazy, should have changed this hydrant then.

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There's no galvanized fittings. That's a piece of 1" black polyethylene water piping attached to a 1" brass insert female tee. The run has a 3/4" male pex adapter with fostapex.

I said to the guy, that fostapex run looks new, the plumber didn't offer to change out the hydrant when it was dug up? He said he asked the plumber and was told if the hydrant worked don't bother. That was less than 2 months ago lolz. Some guys are too lazy, should have changed this hydrant then.

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Ok,gotcha,thanks just looked weird in the pic,thought it might be something new lololo
 

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Forgot to upload this the other day. Basement company put sump pumps and vinyl down 10 years ago. Some jackwagon cut a 4" pvc saddle fitting in half longways so they could glue it onto the 6" cast iron. There's no pic of the saddle fitting because the maintenance guy absconded with it before I got back in the tunnel. They had drilled a 2-1/4" hole so a 1-1/2" toilet spud was perfect. It's rock solid. I screwed a cleanout onto the spud.

I thought about running 20' of 1-1/2" down the tunnel to a cut off 4" line but when I realized how well the spud fit I couldn't justify it. This was the old school main waste line. They ran a new line over head to a new septic system and now only use this one for the sump pumps, a couple floor drains, and a mop sink or two.

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Forgot to upload this the other day. Basement company put sump pumps and vinyl down 10 years ago. Some jackwagon cut a 4" pvc saddle fitting in half longways so they could glue it onto the 6" cast iron. There's no pic of the saddle fitting because the maintenance guy absconded with it before I got back in the tunnel. They had drilled a 2-1/4" hole so a 1-1/2" toilet spud was perfect. It's rock solid. I screwed a cleanout onto the spud.

I thought about running 20' of 1-1/2" down the tunnel to a cut off 4" line but when I realized how well the spud fit I couldn't justify it. This was the old school main waste line. They ran a new line over head to a new septic system and now only use this one for the sump pumps, a couple floor drains, and a mop sink or two.

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That looks rather sexual,you are the hero lolololol
 

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Leak where they were rubbing, also replaced soft copper and hooked hot/cold up to correct side. I caulked the penetrations so any other leaks wouldn't go into ceiling.

Check out the sweet coal boiler. Single pipe steam system, open two valves and you could use the coal boiler instead of/with the oil boiler.

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I wonder how many dingleberries have ripped the tops of drum traps off thinking they were cleanouts for the toilet line?
 
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