Plumbing Zone - Professional Plumbers Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am running a sewer line (4" pipe) for a commercial building running 190' under a parking lot to a septic tank.
Since the septic tank is only 18 or so below grade my pipe (the lot is on a slight grade) in some areas is only a few inches beneath the parking lot.
1. Should I use sch80 or DIP so that it doesn't get crushed, especially on hot days when the tar heats up and softens the plastic?
2. Will I have a freezing problem (especially if I use metal), and should I insulate the pipes (I'm afraid the insulation may make the parking lot crack.
Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,050 Posts
I am running a sewer line (4" pipe) for a commercial building running 190' under a parking lot to a septic tank.
Since the septic tank is only 18 or so below grade my pipe (the lot is on a slight grade) in some areas is only a few inches beneath the parking lot.
1. Should I use sch80 or DIP so that it doesn't get crushed, especially on hot days when the tar heats up and softens the plastic?
2. Will I have a freezing problem (especially if I use metal), and should I insulate the pipes (I'm afraid the insulation may make the parking lot crack.
Thank you

Ask your Jman/Master.


This is not a problem for an apprentice to tackle alone.
 

·
Registered
Master Plumber
Joined
·
30 Posts
At 190' it seems as though you don't have enough fall. 4" pipe as per IPC & UPC is a slope of 1/8" per foot, unless the ground falls away to your septic system. You'll need 24" of fall from the exit of the building to the septic connection. And along that run your going to have a couple of clean outs. Plastic would not be ideal. Additionally your city or location may have a minimum depth for sewer line.
 

·
Registered
Plumber
Joined
·
359 Posts
2. Will I have a freezing problem (especially if I use metal), and should I insulate the pipes (I'm afraid the insulation may make the parking lot crack.....


Is this serious?

If you are afraid of cracking the parking lot the run your sewer above ground obviously.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,050 Posts
.....Plastic would not be ideal........
BULL SCHIT

You can drive a bucket loader over sched 40 pvc
, try that with no-hub cast iron and it will shatter. No-hub will also lose a lot more heat and at that shallow depth will much more easily freeze and break. Also no-hub cast iron is garbage that will rust to schit in no time.

Skip to 8:28 to watch him drive over the pipes.


 

·
Registered
Master Plumber
Joined
·
30 Posts
BULL SCHIT

You can drive a bucket loader over sched 40 pvc
, try that with no-hub cast iron and it will shatter. No-hub will also lose a lot more heat and at that shallow depth will much more easily freeze and break. Also no-hub cast iron is garbage that will rust to schit in no time.

Skip to 8:28 to watch him drive over the pipes.


I’m saying plastic in his situation may not be ideal, additionally he may have issues with the depth, I don’t know what rules are in place where he lives. Also PVC clean outs in the parking lot is not ideal either because they can break, I’ve seen it. Not knowing what is required where this project is located any information he is given on this forum is moot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,050 Posts
I’m saying plastic in his situation may not be ideal.......

........ PVC clean outs in the parking lot is not ideal either because they can break, I’ve seen it. .................
There is no reason sched 40 pvc wouldn't be better than no-hub, not sure what other non-plastic pipe you could be referring to. Transite?

ANY exposed cleanout would be damaged from being run over. If a no-hub cleanout didn't break the connector would fail over time. All cleanouts in a parking lot should have a ring/cover to protect them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MACPLUMB777

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
There is no reason sched 40 pvc wouldn't be better than no-hub, not sure what other non-plastic pipe you could be referring to. Transite?

ANY exposed cleanout would be damaged from being run over. If a no-hub cleanout didn't break the connector would fail over time. All cleanouts in a parking lot should have a ring/cover to protect them.
Cleanouts in blacktop have to be surrounded by a 24” pad of concrete
 

·
Registered
Master Plumber
Joined
·
30 Posts
Correct, with some sort of Cleanout cover made of iron set in concrete. At least in my area. Additionally there is a 12” minimum to finish grade (in my area) at point of exit of the structure. Again we don’t know what the rules are where this project is located. Too many unknowns too make a call on this forum. The pipe material is insignificant at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,050 Posts
................The pipe material is insignificant at this point.
You had me up until that last part, give me one reason he can't run sched. 40 pvc?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MACPLUMB777

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Our jurisdiction requires any areas with traffic or under driveways have to be ductile iron, mechanical fittings and all cleanouts in comercial have to have 24" x 24" x 12" concrete square around a cast iron curb stop lid. Like said already without knowing your jurisdiction codes and if you can get the grade/slope I'm pissing in the wind on my advice to you in your area.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1 Posts
I am not an expert in sewerage installations and everything related to pipes, but I have worked in this field before, and I can say that the best thing would be for all the installations to be at a greater depth, from my own experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
A reduced diameter forced sewer may be the answer. A barometric loop on the upstream pump discharge to help keep the discharge dry between pump cycles. Keep the pump discharge deep enough to protect pipe and preclude freezing. A barometric may not be required if the far end of the line is low enough to drain by gravity. Have it empty into a tank or sump pit that the pumps to the septic tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,050 Posts
........... may be the answer. ...........
This site is for PROFESSIONAL plumbers only, don't go giving the diy or handymen answers. Refer them to the appropriate diy site instead please.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MACPLUMB777

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,997 Posts
A reduced diameter forced sewer may be the answer. A barometric loop on the upstream pump discharge to help keep the discharge dry between pump cycles. Keep the pump discharge deep enough to protect pipe and preclude freezing. A barometric may not be required if the far end of the line is low enough to drain by gravity. Have it empty into a tank or sump pit that the pumps to the septic tank.
Post a proper intro, or you’re gone in the morning.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top