[skoronesa]

..........I’m curious how aluminum holds up to acids.

It doesn't.

The funny thing is, even though I said Aluminum is rust resistant, it technically isn't. Aluminum actually rusts almost immediately upon contact with air and forms a very durable oxide layer(rust). Unlike Iron rust, Aluminum rust is quite stable however, and this is why it's considered very rust resistant.

The problem between Acids and Metals is that many Acids strip the Oxide Layer(rust) off, exposing fresh metal which can then rust again. That cycle continues when Metals are in the presence of Acid. Aluminum is pretty susceptible to Acids and certain Salts. Calcium Chloride, the salt they spray on in winter, is quite harmful to Aluminum. Mercury and Gallium will dissolve Aluminum in a way, infiltrating the molecular structure and creating a very brittle, porous alloy.

 

[MACPLUMB777]

It doesn't.

The funny thing is, even though I said Aluminum is rust resistant, it technically isn't. Aluminum actually rusts almost immediately upon contact with air and forms a very durable oxide layer(rust). Unlike Iron rust, Aluminum rust is quite stable however, and this is why it's considered very rust resistant.

The problem between Acids and Metals is that many Acids strip the Oxide Layer(rust) off, exposing fresh metal which can then rust again. That cycle continues when Metals are in the presence of Acid. Aluminum is pretty susceptible to Acids and certain Salts. Calcium Chloride, the salt they spray on in winter, is quite harmful to Aluminum. Mercury and Gallium will dissolve Aluminum in a way, infiltrating the molecular structure and creating a very brittle, porous alloy.

I should of said the drums are a mixture of Aluminum and Magnesium the exact portions are a Company Secret

 

[OpenSights]

I should of said the drums are a mixture of Aluminum and Magnesium the exact portions are a Company Secret

If I move this thread out of public view… you trust us right?! Lol!

 

[OpenSights]

It doesn't.

The funny thing is, even though I said Aluminum is rust resistant, it technically isn't. Aluminum actually rusts almost immediately upon contact with air and forms a very durable oxide layer(rust). Unlike Iron rust, Aluminum rust is quite stable however, and this is why it's considered very rust resistant.

The problem between Acids and Metals is that many Acids strip the Oxide Layer(rust) off, exposing fresh metal which can then rust again. That cycle continues when Metals are in the presence of Acid. Aluminum is pretty susceptible to Acids and certain Salts. Calcium Chloride, the salt they spray on in winter, is quite harmful to Aluminum. Mercury and Gallium will dissolve Aluminum in a way, infiltrating the molecular structure and creating a very brittle, porous alloy.

I’ve been meaning to ask you…. 12v electrolysis and anode material for rust removal. I know copper and aluminum will give off poisonous gas, what about a heater mag rod? I have sacrificial steel, but I can get free mag rods from my supply house from warranty heaters all day. (Rheem dealer). Would mag give off bad gas, or should I stick to steel?

 

[sparky]

View attachment 132870

Model Z5 Auto Feed
Cleans 1-1/4” – 3” diameter lines up to 100 ft. while running 1/2″ dia. galvanized aircraft wire inner core cable. Built-in drum shaft slip clutch. Upright frame on large 10” wheels with folding handle. Rear bar shields motor and allows for two position operation. Steel guide tube/inner drum. 1/2” x 75 ft. cable standard.
In addition to all the benefits and features of the standard Model Z5, the auto feed version allows the operator to advance and retrieve the cable with the push of a lever. The cable runs through a guide spring which keeps hands off the rotating cable for added safety.

How much for that machine Jerry???

 

[skoronesa]

I’ve been meaning to ask you…. 12v electrolysis and anode material for rust removal. I know copper and aluminum will give off poisonous gas, what about a heater mag rod? I have sacrificial steel, but I can get free mag rods from my supply house from warranty heaters all day. (Rheem dealer). Would mag give off bad gas, or should I stick to steel?

I would use some stainless steel for your anode. 400 series is best. Use a bit of Potassium Hydroxide for the electrolyte if you can get it. Regular Sodium Chloride table salt will give off Chlorine gas. You can use regular steel too, it might just not last as long between cleanings. Regardless you'll need to clean your anode from time to time.

Really the gases it gives off shouldn't be a concern as you'll be doing this outside.

I think your voltage need only be around 2v. Not sure if an old 5v phone charger would provide sufficient current. Whatever you use for a power supply you'll likely need to use a current limiting resistor so you don't burn it out.

I've never done Electrolysis Rust Removal myself, this is all based off what I happened to pick up passing by. I also used to play with making Hydrogen and Oxygen gas from water, it's similar. For rust removal I just use Hydrochloric Acid because it's fast and most effective.

 

[MACPLUMB777]

How much for that machine Jerry???

CK YOUR PM

 

[OpenSights]

I would use some stainless steel for your anode. 400 series is best. Use a bit of Potassium Hydroxide for the electrolyte if you can get it. Regular Sodium Chloride table salt will give off Chlorine gas. You can use regular steel too, it might just not last as long between cleanings. Regardless you'll need to clean your anode from time to time.

Really the gases it gives off shouldn't be a concern as you'll be doing this outside.

I think your voltage need only be around 2v. Not sure if an old 5v phone charger would provide sufficient current. Whatever you use for a power supply you'll likely need to use a current limiting resistor so you don't burn it out.

I've never done Electrolysis Rust Removal myself, this is all based off what I happened to pick up passing by. I also used to play with making Hydrogen and Oxygen gas from water, it's similar. For rust removal I just use Hydrochloric Acid because it's fast and most effective.

Ever wonder if other members wonder wtf we’re talking about when this seemingly random stuff comes up? Lol!
What I’ve read is 12v manual charger set on trickle.

 

[Jason Winstead]

My apprentice is wanting to start taking on some of my smaller drain calls to I don’t want.
Anyone have experience with the ridgid K-400? Is it something good to start out with?Basically he’d be snaking kitchen /lav drains and showers.

i started with a K-50 but and still have it, but the sectional cables are a bithch to feed in and out..

View attachment 132868

I have the K-400 but upgraded to the autofeed attachment. I use it once a week at a minimum and love it. Works great for drain lines under 3 inches

 

[OpenSights]

I have the K-400 but upgraded to the autofeed attachment. I use it once a week at a minimum and love it. Works great for drain lines under 3 inches

That’s not a very good intro.

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[Master Mark]

The little K50 Rigid rules and always will....I have 4 of them and. they all beaten up from abuse. but just last week
I had an emergency at my own house with a 1 1/4 pressurized sewer line that stopped up going 175 feet
up an incline from my outside pump to the main sewer.... very nasty thing to mess with

I had to hunt around for all the cables I still had laying around and found enough to make the run
they still worked and the machine from the 1980s still had the torque to run them that length.....
I hit a spot that it would not make a bend on going into the main so I had to hire a jetting service
to make an attempt at it and they were able to blow out the grease or obstruction.. They were able to get through
the bend and I was lucky that I did not have to have a new line bored up to the sewer

those K50s have enough power to push 175 feet up a hill they are more than good enough
for any house hold issues