[AllAces777]

This was a pretty sad story. An older couple had an RO System installed by one of the big box home improvement stores and after a few months water kept coming from the hole in the side of the RO faucet. They contacted the store which sent out a company that installed a new system, within a few months the new system started doing the same thing. The owners called the store again and had a different kind of system installed. To their dismay, this system did the exact same thing as the other 2.

Within a half hour I discovered the horrible drain connection just below the disposer 90 through a saddle to be the culprit. The drain line enters the waste system in a horizontal manner which allows food particles to collect and build up in the drain line, ultimately plugging the line up after a short period of time. I cleared the line and purged the system. No leaks were found afterwards.

This is a perfect example why the contractors board should eliminate c30 licenses, a license to install water treatment equipment which in my opinion is in violation of Nevada law which requires a plumbing contractors license to touch any part of the water, drain, waste or vent system of a building. The manual clearly states that the drain line of an RO system should enter the waste system in a vertical manner, preferably through the 90 degree connector they provide.

Joe Blo gets a C30 license and takes advantage of home owners by ignoring plumbing code and the safety and health of the public by slopping these units in over and over. Wheres the justice?

 

[rocksteady]

After the second sentence, I knew just what was happening. Either that or somebody didn't drill the hole. I've seen that too.


Did you move the saddle to a horizontal section of tubular and enter from the top?






Paul

 

[1234mg]

This is exactly why I got into water treatment. Worst scenario I've ever seen was a water softener plumbed backwards, then an undersink RO piped into an island sink and icemaker--both underslab copper pipe. Both at the same house. With a cost upwards of 6K.

 

[AllAces777]

Thanks for the replies.

I haven't moved the saddle yet because their wasn't a manual available and I wanted to verify what the manual stated. I will contact the H/O with the information.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Plumbworker]

dont those drains on the ro systems need to have a airgap?

 

[gusty60]

They do. Thats where the water was coming out.

 

[AllAces777]

Yeah, the airgap is in the faucet. If the drain line is plugged, the drain water comes out of the hole in the faucet.

 

[sigshooter71]

need check valve

All you need is a check valve if its in the tailpiece. Get a faucet without the airgap.

 

[SewerRatz]

Our code states saddles are not allowed in drainage or water distribution. So I like to correct the problem with one of these.

 

[AllAces777]

All you need is a check valve if its in the tailpiece. Get a faucet without the airgap.

I would hate to have to charge the HO extra. If the system is installed correctly, everything is ok. The manual shows that the drain line should be connected in a vertical position and even gives the fittings for making a good connection. It's really sad when the installer doesn't follow the instructions. I couldn't find any information about the legality of the saddles, our code amendments don't say anything about them. :thumbsup:

 

[rocksteady]

I always cringe at under-counter air gaps. All I can think of is a backed up sink just flooding the cabinet with k/s water. I'm pretty sure the air gap faucets satisfy the requirements.

I use sadles all the time for R.O. drains but the method in the diagram would work too. With 2 baffled tee's that's a good restriction on the line though. Knowing how and where to install the drain will make sure it doesn't plug up with debris and isn't overly loud.






Paul

 

[plumjoe]

also the R.O. drain can not have any slack in the hose it will make them overflow from the airgap as well