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Discussion Starter #1
I worked for a company once and the guys there would never change the seats in the faucets when they replaced the washers on washer type faucets. They never knew they had one until I pulled out my seat remover.

Do you make it a point to change the seat when replacing the washers?
 

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I'll feel the face of the seat if possible, if pitted it get replaced, or if the washer is tore up then good indication the seat is bad, and it gets replaced.
 
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Depends...
Having been jammed into a corner with my share of valves where the seats are so corroded the tool strips them, I find the washers usually do the job.
If a valve is old and the seats ain't gonna come out with a little force, I ain't gonna risk breaking an old soldered seam or bending anything to get it out.
In that case I warn the customer the valve may need replacement on the next call.

Inversely I'd ask you how often you've had trouble when not replacing the seats?
 

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I'll feel the face of the seat if possible, if pitted it get replaced, or if the washer is tore up then good indication the seat is bad, and it gets replaced.
That too...pointless to replace the washer only if the seat isn't going to seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not many, but I like to be thorough when I do something. I have better things to do than keep going back. yes, I have replaced just the washers and not had problems.
 

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Does anyone use P&M (Perfect Match) to supply yourself with seats, o-rings, cap gaskets, packings, screws, washers ect.....?
 

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I used to grind a lot more seats than I do now. I lost a set of grinders when a toolbox was stolen and haven't found the ones I need to replace them yet.

But I've even made a specialty wrench for some of the really deep seats in trailer house faucets. I have a reseating set from Sexauer but it uses odd-sized seats and I suppose I'd have to break down and re-order from them to get them again. I've had some really bad luck with their ordering process.
 

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I've used Perfect Match in the past. I can say to avoid their Crane Dial-ese stems - so far as I know, they've never managed to machine them properly and they'll leak through the stem when installed. Nothing's made as well as it used to be.
 

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Service Guy said:
I rarely have a problem getting them out with the proper seat wrench.
Then there are some really nifty ones you haven't run into yet. There are many that take special tools. For example, the aforementioned Price Pfister trailer house tub and shower valves that have the seat with about a 1" long raised portion; the Crane Dial-ese stems also have a seat that takes a special tool. Luckily, it doesn't often need to be replaced.

And there's the Universal Rundle threadless seat. Those are fun.

Here's the UR seat and several extended seats. The first three need allen wrenches, the last one uses the homemade tool:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
I usually dont have much problem. My point was that most people that work for a pluming company dont know to check these things. All they see is the bad washer, not what caused it to go bad in the first place.
 

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I always replace the seats if possible. If they don't come out then I tell them that it is best to replace the valve. I have had a couple of Price Pfister shower valves where the faucet body snapped when removing the old seat. The seat came out with the female part of the faucet body still attached.
 

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Kissler or Brass Craft being common in the whole faucet rebuild kit supply dont impress me for quality.......anymore a customer should IMO end up with something pressure balanced and single handle that has an easy to replace cartridge...but not everyone wants to spend..
 

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I usually try to get clients to see the wisdom in replacing an old 2 or 3 hndl valve for something modern.If I do rebuild one it is all or nothing.New stems, trim, seats.
I use a sexhauer set and also a couple of right angle seat wrenches.What those wont remove, this will
 

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