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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any reason that one couldn’t melt down the lead from old car batteries or shot bullets and use it cast iron? I don’t do much lead and oakum but I was thinking it would be a good way to salvage some lead.

This seems like a killertoiletspider or bill par kinda question.
 

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I always use straight lead. Depending on the % of antimony, the melting point could be twice as high for the alloy. I think antimony melts around 1200 degrees.

There is no cheap way to refine lead that contains antimony.

I don't think it would be a good idea.

Congrats on the recycling attempt though
:thumbsup:
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So it will just take longer to melt the pot because the antimony will raise the melting point of the alloy? That doesn't seem like a big issue. I'd lose a few a buck more in propane but I'd save $10 in lead.....no?
 

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I wonder if there would be an adverse effect on the CI, pouring something in there twice as hot?

It would be a good question for KTS. He left.;)
 

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I think it has more to do with the workability of the lead. Not sure on it tho... just putting out there as that's what I'd understood (meaning I heard it once).

Btw, DOES antimony in the mix raise the melting temp of the alloy? Tin and lead both melt at hotter temps than 50/50 does.
 

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So it will just take longer to melt the pot because the antimony will raise the melting point of the alloy? That doesn't seem like a big issue. I'd lose a few a buck more in propane but I'd save $10 in lead.....no?
I have some lead wad cutters left if you want me to go melt a few and see how long it takes I will.....its been 10 years since I melted the ones down i was talking about,but I didn't melt them all down. I have about 200 or so left. ?????
 

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By the way, what does the code say the joints are to be filled with?:)



I know I'm splitting hairs but. I'm just sayin'
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It doesn't say what purity the lead has to be though:

705.5 Cast iron. Joints between cast-iron pipe or fittings shall comply with Sections 705.5.1 through 705.5.3.


705.5.1 Caulked joints.
Joints for hub and spigot pipe shall be firmly packed with oakum or hemp. Molten lead shall be poured in one operation to a depth of not less than 1 inch (25 mm). The lead shall not recede more than 0.125 inch (3.2 mm) below the rim of the hub and shall be caulked tight. Paint, varnish or other coatings shall not be permitted on the jointing material until after the joint has been tested and approved. Lead shall be run in one pouring and shall be caulked tight. Acid-resistant rope and acidproof cement shall be permitted.705.5.2 Compression gasket joints. Compression gaskets for hub and spigot pipe and fittings shall conform to ASTM C 564 and shall be tested to ASTM C 1563. Gaskets shall be compressed when the pipe is fully inserted.705.5.3 Mechanical joint coupling. Mechanical joint couplings for hubless pipe and fittings shall comply with CISPI 310, ASTM C 1277 or ASTM C 1540. The elastomeric sealing sleeve shall conform to ASTM C 564 or CSA B602 and shall be provided with a center stop. Mechanical joint couplings shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions.
By the way, what does the code say the joints are to be filled with?:)



I know I'm splitting hairs but. I'm just sayin'
 

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By the way, what does the code say the joints are to be filled with?:)



I know I'm splitting hairs but. I'm just sayin'
Checking it out I see my copy of the plumbing code is outdated :whistling2:
but basically it says it has to comform to CSA B70-06 which is lead. Just lead. Not solder (definitely not solder), just lead. Use lead.
 
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