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In a local flyer this summer, I wonder if it's a popular item now that these are "surplus"? I didn't go and see them as I'm not interested...



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drain
 

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I haven’t used one. I did buy the m12 drill snake and don’t have a very high opinion of it. I would definitely try the new fuel m18 though.
That is a machine good for only 1 1/2-2” lines. IMHO, 1/4” cable is only for tub drains or the very unusual 1 1/4 galvanized drain.
 

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I haven’t used one. I did buy the m12 drill snake and don’t have a very high opinion of it. I would definitely try the new fuel m18 though.
That is a machine good for only 1 1/2-2” lines. IMHO, 1/4” cable is only for tub drains or the very unusual 1 1/4 galvanized drain.
I use general model "25HE1" 1/4" snake cable, but I don't use it in a "machine" per se. I cut off like six or eight feet and just chuck it in my drill. I hold the drill in one hand and the end of the cable in my other hand to feed it in. Eight feet is more than enough for most lavs and tub drains to reach where they tie into the 3" or 4".

I end up with extra plain cable that I will make into more small snakes with slightly different ends. I have a couple that just have stubs sticking off the end, it's good for really corroded galv. Usually opens a hole and then I can use a normal spring end style.

For kitchen sinks I like to cut the pipe in the basement so I can vac out the contents or take the stick outside and shake the grease out. If I can't manually clean the pipe I will use the mini-jetter from the trap. Usually I use the vacuum or blow bag before I run the mini-jetter just to get the bulk.

Lately I've also been using another option that I have yet to see any of you mention on here. I will make a thread in the business section.
 

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I use general model "25HE1" 1/4" snake cable, but I don't use it in a "machine" per se. I cut off like six or eight feet and just chuck it in my drill. I hold the drill in one hand and the end of the cable in my other hand to feed it in. Eight feet is more than enough for most lavs and tub drains to reach where they tie into the 3" or 4".

I end up with extra plain cable that I will make into more small snakes with slightly different ends. I have a couple that just have stubs sticking off the end, it's good for really corroded galv. Usually opens a hole and then I can use a normal spring end style.

For kitchen sinks I like to cut the pipe in the basement so I can vac out the contents or take the stick outside and shake the grease out. If I can't manually clean the pipe I will use the mini-jetter from the trap. Usually I use the vacuum or blow bag before I run the mini-jetter just to get the bulk.

Lately I've also been using another option that I have yet to see any of you mention on here. I will make a thread in the business section.
I would like to see your process! Everyone I ever taught I’d tell them “what works for me might not work for you.”
 

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I use general model "25HE1" 1/4" snake cable, but I don't use it in a "machine" per se. I cut off like six or eight feet and just chuck it in my drill. I hold the drill in one hand and the end of the cable in my other hand to feed it in. Eight feet is more than enough for most lavs and tub drains to reach where they tie into the 3" or 4".

Interesting, I have a cheap 15$ 1/4" snake in the truck I never used yet. Would it do the trick or should I get a General wire?
 

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Interesting, I have a cheap 15$ 1/4" snake in the truck I never used yet. Would it do the trick or should I get a General wire?
It will probably kink up badly but hey, might as well try it though.

For small cables (3/8" or less) I have used general, ridgid, marco, and generic cables. From that I can tell you the general, OLD ridgid, and the marco cables were the best. The new ridgid and generic cables were garbage and kinked immediately.

Of all of those I only know that general made their own cables, I don't know if marco does/did. General is a wire and spring company, it's in their name. I also hear that electric eel and drain cables direct are very good cables too.
 

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I would like to see your process! Everyone I ever taught I’d tell them “what works for me might not work for you.”
The short 1/4" is perfect for getting hair/soap balls from tubs and showers.
 
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I like running 1/4” cable in countertop machines. Especially the Roto rooter 1125/ duracable dm125.
Never been too keen on the switch pack but I am very intrigued by the new Milwaukee k60 copycat.
 

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Back in the day at Rotten Rooter there was a machine called a Viking that I liked at the time. A new owner bought the franchise and changed over to Spartan. Model 100 with 13/32" drum and a 1/2" drum . Model 81 with a 1/4" drop head cable. Kept a 15 to 20 foot piece of 1/4" cable that would be swapped out with the drop head cable. Those galvanized drains can be a pain . Earned my stripes with a loud 1065 . Can't hear anymore but I can tell what was happening by the sound of that machine. Quiet and has a brake now . No more drum turning going up stairs and staining carpets.
 

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Back in the day at Rotten Rooter there was a machine called a Viking that I liked at the time. A new owner bought the franchise and changed over to Spartan. Model 100 with 13/32" drum and a 1/2" drum . Model 81 with a 1/4" drop head cable. Kept a 15 to 20 foot piece of 1/4" cable that would be swapped out with the drop head cable. Those galvanized drains can be a pain . Earned my stripes with a loud 1065 . Can't hear anymore but I can tell what was happening by the sound of that machine. Quiet and has a brake now . No more drum turning going up stairs and staining carpets.
I liked the Viking well enough. I’d take a Viking over a model 81 any day.

as far as the 1065 goes I prefer the older motors without the brake but that’s a personal preference. I love Roto-Rooter/duracable drum machines. The 1065 wasn’t awful but I never did like the break motor.
 

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Il Lic. Plumber
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I bought a general hand electric eel 30 years ago for myself so I could do some side work and not have to borrow. I still have it and just run a bare cable with a little bend in the end . Clears a lot of lav sink and tub drains. I use a short 5 gallon bucket [really 3 gallons] for a stand . I rest the hand electric over the top . Seems like it was made for it .
One of my Master plumbers Rick that taught me had worked in West Texas for many years . He claimed nothing but cast iron drains due to cast iron plant in Tyler TX. All he ran was a Hand electric eel and a Spartan 300 . Neither had blades on the cables. He claimed didn't need as scale clogs were the majority of service calls. No basements due to really hard soil "cleeche". Rick said k sinks all had a sanitary tee at the base of the kitchen stack . There was always a cleanout outside on the back side of the tee. And usually a opening for the sewer couple inches below grade where sewer exited building. Cast iron mains , usually 3 " to the street. Claimed a service call only took 15 to 20 minutes max . He kept wanting me to move down there . Bunch of easy money to be made down there he said .
 
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