[TerryTotoSucks]

You use pushfit fittings to connect water heaters ?

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

And a home depot water heater.................

I doubt that one came from Home Depot, it’s the professional series.

I buy most of my water heaters from Home Depot. They’re open 7 days a week and stay open until 10pm most nights.

I priced a 50 electric at supply house and came out cheaper going to Home Depot. I got the heater, expansion tank and drain pan at Home Depot cheaper than just the water heater at supply house.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

that's usually the case but, to have it dropped off, sitting in the driveway of the home it's getting installed in is worth that extra premium from the supply houses to me.

Yeah it’s not worth the $60 extra difference for them to deliver a water heater. I’m not rich yet, I’m still installing water heaters for a living. Can’t forget that.

There’s usually a supply house on the way or a box store for me to stop off at.

PLUS: Rheem heaters from Home Depot come with a 1 yr in home repair warranty. So they’ll send someone out to repair it if I’m out of town or sick. That’s awesome for a one man shop.

Terry likes to see and be seen. 🫶🌈

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

My supply house also delivers at no charge but they’re just $60 more on a 50 gal electric Rheem if you pick it up or they deliver it.

Then it may come down to who’s open and who’s not open. Or can the supply house get it there when you need it there. Supply houses typically don’t do regular business on weekends.

Also The box store has more choices than supply houses here. Different heights and diameters.

I just found some leaking sharkbites leaking on a jack leg installed mess……

I literally just drove off from the repair.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

I can send you a mounting brack for that tank.

Also does no one install a boiler drain with there expansion tanks so you can easily isolate the tank and drain it with out killing the hot water.

View attachment 135838

There’s no need for a bracket.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

Just leave a faucet dripping and you won’t need an expansion tank

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

Y’all sure making a big deal out of changing expansion tanks.

Just turn the water off and unscrew it. Screw new one in. I charge it up to 90 psi then bleed it down to match house line pressure and then screw it in.

Terrys never had a problem with it.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

I am curious about the foil tape on the single wall vent pipe. Is that a requirement in your jurisdiction? I have never seen that as a requirement. The vent for a Catagory 1 appliance is under negative pressure. The IFGC has very little information on installation requirements of single wall "vent" pipe. Very little on specifics as to how sections of single wall vent pipe are to be fastened together, sealed, supported. I am an oldtimer, and we always used at least 3 screws in each joint of single wall vent pipe. Never used tape. Anybody have jurisdiction requirements that go farther than screws in each joint? Such as how often the vent must be supported horizontally? For instance IFGC Chapter 5 vents says All portions of single wall metal pipe shall be supported for the design and weight of the material supported. That leaves a lot up to the discretion of the AHJ.

I was talking about a bracket for the expansion tank. None required

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

Y’all taking about that vent pipe that comes in a roll ?

Sticky on one side and is made out of aluminum ?

Yeay I seen that stuff

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

Most if not all codes forbid a valve that can isolate a safety device from the system it's protecting.

Can you tell me what code numbers that’s in the model codes under ?

I’ve never read that in the model codes. I’m sure some jurisdictions may have it amended into the code but that wouldn’t qualify as most.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

Aren't you in Alabama?

Yes and that code is not for an expansion tank. It’s for water heaters and storage tanks in relation to the T&P valve.

An expansion tank isn’t a hot water storage tank and it can be installed anywhere in the cold system.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

I’ve never read in a code book that a thermal expansion tank is required, I’ve always read that thermal expansion control must be provided for.
The city code I work under doesn’t require thermal expansion control unless the system is normally closed by a any type of check valve.

There are more than just expansion tanks for the control of thermal expansion.

There are ballcocks and hose Bibb adapters that provide protection against thermal expansion. Of course the toilet would have a stop valve that could isolate the thermal expansion from the system.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

They're only required here on commercial projects. That or a pressure relief valve on the backflow.

So expansion tanks are not required, a relief valve may be used.

 

[TerryTotoSucks]

In My Opinion, this code requires a valve at the expansion tank. See 7.
606.1 Location of Full-Open Valves

Full-open valves shall be installed in the following locations:

1. On the building water service pipe from the public water supply near the curb.
2. On the water distribution supply pipe at the entrance into the structure.
3. On the discharge side of every water meter.
4. On the base of every water riser pipe in occupancies other than multiple-family residential occupancies that are two stories or less in height and in one- and two-family residential occupancies.
5. On the top of every water down-feed pipe in occupancies other than one- and two-family residential occupancies.
6. On the entrance to every water supply pipe to a dwelling unit, except where supplying a single fixture equipped with individual stops.
7. On the water supply pipe to a gravity or pressurized water tank.
8. On the water supply pipe to every water heater.

What code would that be ?

But the statement you quoted by me was in the context of a code NOT prohibiting a valve between the expansion tank and the source of expansion.

You posted a code that says a valve shall be installed. Ok that’s fine..👍

Read the quoted part of post #50 and then read my response.