Plumbing Zone - Professional Plumbers Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Homeowner calls and says there's a leak coming from her upstairs bathroom somewhere. She believes the leak to be coming from the toilet, which she says is directly above the toilet. We get there and look the toilet over real good and see nothing wrong with it or the stop or supply line. Before we ever do anything, though, she shows us an access on the backside of the bathroom where the drains and vents for the toilet and lavatory can be reached. I look down the joists to the toilet and see no signs of water damage. I have my helper flush the toilet several times while I run my hand all around the riser to see if there's any water leaking. Still nothing. I look over at the tub and pull out the drawers from the cabinet next to it, squeeze myself into the space, and I see, sure enough, signs of water damage underneath the tub P-trap. Her house was settling and it seemed from that, it had snapped the riser going up to the tub. We ended up cutting the sheetrock in the ceiling below, which was all the stained sheetrock anyways, and repairing what you see. So any thoughts, comments, questions, constructive (perhaps some deconstructive) criticism? Pointers on what could have been done are also appreciated.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No compression joint tub drain assembly in sheetrock ceiling. It should be a glue joint assembly.
I thought as long as it was accessible, it was okay. Because you can reach those compression joints from the access without too much work, it's just a little tight.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,234 Posts
Compression Watco's are allowed out here, but I agree, glue is better. Instead of a 1-1/2X1-1/4 fernco I'd rather see a PVC X copper nohub.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,768 Posts
Do those not have as much give as Ferncos or do they have a smoother transition from the types of pipe? I've never used a no hub adapter coupling for that before.
they have a stainles steel sleeve that goes over the complete clamp with 2 hose clamps that tighten it down, much more support..or an 1 1/2 inch nohub clamp( standard) will clamp tight to the outside of the copper fitting not the copper pipe..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I always keep a supply of assorted ones onboard for those repairs..
My boss normally runs the service work so his truck has most of the stuff he needs to do that. My service experience is touch and go since he handles it majority of the time, so I was looking for some extra pointers. Besides, it was supposed to be a simple pull and reset toilet. But it's never that simple it seems. A true story.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,768 Posts
My boss normally runs the service work so his truck has most of the stuff he needs to do that. My service experience is touch and go since he handles it majority of the time, so I was looking for some extra pointers. Besides, it was supposed to be a simple pull and reset toilet. But it's never that simple it seems. A true story.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
thats what learning is all about..and we never stop learning as the products and technology keeps changing...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,234 Posts
Make sure you use a no-hub torque wrench with them
Naw... just a 5/16 driver, and when it feels about right just make a "click" noise.:laughing:

I used one for years that I got from my Dad who used it for who knows how long before I got it. Got into a conversation with one of the new guys who just bought a new one and decided to compare them. My old one clicked a good half turn before his new one. Never had a leak though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I was curious about the torque wrenches too. I have one that was laying around in our random tool box. I used it a couple times but it's seen a lot of use, and it was stripped out pretty bad when I got it. The few times I used it and it clicked, I would see if I could get it tighter with a 5/16", which I could always get several more turns out of it. So I was wondering if they're supposed to only be tightened to that certain point or can you just crank on it and call it good?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
So does the torque wrench work only for no-hub clamps? Perhaps it's time to invest in a new tool.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,234 Posts
Oh, what is it 60 inch pounds?... or 85? brain fart at the moment... Something like that. It's meant for no hubs and ferncos, I'm sure you could use it for other things in a pinch... it's all I use mine for. I generally start off with a nut driver or impact and finish with the torque... quicker that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Oh, meant can it also be used for Ferncos or if it was strictly for no-hubs. The picture above shows 60 #'s and one I saw online showed the same thing too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top