Kinetic Water Ram
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I agree 101%:laughing:- On second thought - sounds like an excellent tool for the handyman.
Reminds me of the old Mikey commercials for Life Cereal. "Let's get the handyman to try it, he'll try anything." :laughing:
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222 Posts
They have been around for along time, My father used one and he's been dead 18 years. He once told me that he lent it to a friend who pumped it up to 100-125 psi leaned down on it for a tub drain and shot the overflow screw into his ear. He swore it was true. I don't know
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4,304 Posts
How do you cable a trap?
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8,808 Posts
You take the trap off, or if it is a solid trap non removable, a 3/8" cable with full circle cutters will maneuver around it.
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975 Posts
I think jjbex is thinking tub trap not a lav trap. Since cable is the way to go how do you cable a bottle trap??? (No you have no way to access it except through the tub over flow) The plumber that replumbed the building didn't replace the bottle traps with regular P-traps. (hence why he's not doing there plumbing anymore.)
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8,808 Posts
This is my own opinion. I don't expect anyone to agree with what I say about this.
Drum and bottle traps are non existent here, but when and if I do find one, it's all about replacement, find it, get rid of it, find a vent to clear it out at, I have never had an issue with a drain, even on a lav, if the trap is in good shape, I could walk the 1/4" cable around it and open line without ever pulling the trap. All I have to say about this device, to force a line open via pressure, is it won't stay open for long, it will clog back up in no time. It is just not the right way to do it.
Drum and bottle traps are non existent here, but when and if I do find one, it's all about replacement, find it, get rid of it, find a vent to clear it out at, I have never had an issue with a drain, even on a lav, if the trap is in good shape, I could walk the 1/4" cable around it and open line without ever pulling the trap. All I have to say about this device, to force a line open via pressure, is it won't stay open for long, it will clog back up in no time. It is just not the right way to do it.
I don't think I can count high enough to count the number of drum traps that are entirely encased in concrete in Chicago high rises that would cost thousands of dollars to replace because they have been tiled over with marble, slate, or granite tile.
Chicago code is very clear on drain cleaning, if you do not have a plumbers license you can only clear main sewer blockages from a CO outside the building, in clay pipe, and you must have a drainlayers license to perform this work. If the pipe is cast iron, or inside a building, it has to be done by a licensed plumber, IL code has some similar rules, but I am not familar with them.
That is not true. you only need to pull a permit on work that is subject to inspection, like sewer replacement, and the permit fee for that is well over ten dollars.
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305 Posts
Thanks for the idea.....:whistling2:
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20,658 Posts
Did you know they have washlet seats installed here?:laughing:
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4,304 Posts
All I got to say is they work great on bar/restaurant floor drains or floor sinks. The traps get filled with straws and crayons and start catching sludge, the ram blasts the clog apart, sending it down the main.
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96 Posts
I do a good mix of service plumbing in NYC commercial buildings. I have a kinetic water ram on my truck and have used it many times, with varying success. I have found that if I can't clear a lav or tub stoppage with 2 or 3 (MAXIMUM OF 5) strokes on the tank, I won't get it at all and bringing it up to 20 PSI is asking for trouble. I have tried a few times to overpower the drain with massive pressure (in a slop sink in the shop that is constantly filled with crap) and it is impressive to see how violent the reaction is. I totally believe that you can blow apart pvc or 20 ga tubular with the thing.
Then again, I do usually try it at first because it takes only a minute and saves the customer from spending more than the minimum charge if it works - which it does maybe 50% of the time. I feel that if I can offer them a service that saves them money I owe it to them to do so.
I just found this website and am happy to join in.
Keith
Then again, I do usually try it at first because it takes only a minute and saves the customer from spending more than the minimum charge if it works - which it does maybe 50% of the time. I feel that if I can offer them a service that saves them money I owe it to them to do so.
I just found this website and am happy to join in.
Keith
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4,253 Posts
It is true in Chicago you call in for a permit to power rod the main sewer. Also Chicago does not require you to be a licensed plumber to clear any drains within the home, but you do need to have a sewer/drain layers license. My father has been doing sewer and drains in Chicago for over 50 years.
This is right from Chicagos website.
Sewer Permits, Fees and Standards
Prior to the start of work, permits are required from the Department of Water Management for the construction, repair, adjustment, rodding or cleaning of any subsurface structure designed to collect or transport storm and/or sanitary waste water, either in private property or in the public way. A Department of Water Management permit must be obtained ONLY by a LICENSED DRAINLAYER.
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