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Always Something
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so I have a job that I am bidding. It's 2 tankless heaters with a recirc system.

The pump and my electronics are not allowed...rather approved for outdoor installations. I was thinking of some kind of enclosure with a hinged door with an open bottom. What suggestions do you have?

Mounting the pump / electronics under the house is a last resort and I really do not want to do that. There is a 75 gal in a tin house on the side of the furthest exterior wall. There is no recirc as of now, and opposite end is taking about 4.5 minutes for HW. The design is correct I just need to protect my pump / housing. Leaving the tin house is not an option. Looking for economical way of doing this because the rest of the job is gonna cost a boat load. I don't want to price myself out of the job for some eloborate housing. Was thinking 3/4" treated ply with a back against the stuccoo wall so I don't have to flash it. Advice? Thanks!
 

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it may be kind of funkybut how about one of those smaller rubbermaid sheds? they make the real shallow ones that people install right on the side of their house, much like the tin doghouse that's already there. it'll look a little better i think and it's water proof. otherwise, i think you'd need to build something.





paul
 

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How about mounting the pump in a cabinet at the far end of the loop? Put an aquastat on it and it will shut down when it's hot, negating the necessity of having to purge cold water from the return line. Of course, you may have noise issues in that cabinet, but at least it's inside.
 

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Water Whisperer
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Ask the homeowner what they would prefer? Maybe they have their own ideas.
 

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Always Something
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How about mounting the pump in a cabinet at the far end of the loop? Put an aquastat on it and it will shut down when it's hot, negating the necessity of having to purge cold water from the return line. Of course, you may have noise issues in that cabinet, but at least it's inside.
I would with a Metland demand pump, but this is a bit different by design.
 

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I would with a Metland demand pump, but this is a bit different by design.
Other then the fact that your pump has to move at least .5 gpm (or in some cases .75 gpm) to fire the heater, how is this different? The pump would shut off when aquastat reaches set temp, thus shutting down the heater (if no hot water is being called for). However, you'd still have to account for the cold water sandwich when the pump is off and a hot tap turns on.
 

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Always Something
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nope. I do my recircs a little different. Grundfos Aquastats are crap and do nothing with respect to tankless. My system is different. I Could do the pump on the other end, but I want the whole line 3/4". My pump will do about 3.5 gpm. The energy saved at putting the stat down line is not worth the hassle to me and it's more work than it needs to be.
 

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Always Something
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Para, you're a strange dude.
 

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Grundfos Aquastats are crap and do nothing with respect to tankless. My system is different. I Could do the pump on the other end, but I want the whole line 3/4". My pump will do about 3.5 gpm. The energy saved at putting the stat down line is not worth the hassle to me and it's more work than it needs to be.
Honeywell immersion well aquastats are the way to go. I, too, only run 3/4" recircs. Plus, I use long turn 90's. Cuts down on the turbulence.
As for the remote pump location, sure it's a pita, but so's a frozen pump.:mad:
Has the recirc line already been run? If not, can it be run in the attic, which might be a little more accessible then the crawlspace.
 

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Would a Hot Box be too expensive? There are many different kinds. You can have a receptacle out there for heat trace tape. I dont know if that would work or not for what you are doing.
 

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We buy sheet metal and fabricate something very simple to keep them dry, nothing real elaborate never had a problem yet, we sometimes just roll the sheet metal around the pump and use a couple of screws to keep it from unraveling, leave the ends open for the piping runs, fasten to the wall.
 
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