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philosopher and statesmen
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Discussion Starter #61
I've changed a lot of the Honeywell controls. I typically install Bradfords and I've had three of them go bad on me. One didn't work right out of the box. Thinking about switching to the Rheem pro units precisely because of the Robert Shaw controls. Very reliable.
We switched back to Rheem in 2010 because of this ICON issue and we have been very happy with that old style Shaw valve ....

But we are STILL going out about once a week and doing warranty work on ICON valves .. I keep 2 kits on my truck because it always seems to fall on a Satruday when the supply houses are closed...
 

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Here is one I was at yesterday
Turns out heater is out of warranty. Homeowner on fence about full replacement or repair


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And this was today. I think I mentioned it before but I'll say it again. The company I work for has a habit of sending different techs to same address. First tech went out, then today I get the paperwork to replace gcv. Fun times! Turns out the plastic housing of the Honeywell had cracked but it had been their second gcv. The one I put in today makes three and hopefully the last. I had to drain the heater bc the homeowner was watching otherwise I would have hydrolocked it.


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philosopher and statesmen
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Discussion Starter #64
I see you got wise and installed the old style tried and true valve
on that heater instead of the ICON piece of junk...


chances are this will probably take care of all of the issues they are having...
 

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I just heard today that a heater I installed 2 months ago with the Honeywell valve has been heating up too much and the maintenance guy has already lowered the temp setting 2 times. Sounds like we will have to replace it.

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We switched back to Rheem in 2010 because of this ICON issue and we have been very happy with that old style Shaw valve ....

But we are STILL going out about once a week and doing warranty work on ICON valves .. I keep 2 kits on my truck because it always seems to fall on a Satruday when the supply houses are closed...
That’s a mistake you are making right there mark,make them people wait two days without hot water then go to supply house on Monday and they will be more than happy to shell out the bucks to get them hot water,I always make people wait for hot water and stopped up drains,it seems to change their tight as attitude real quick :laughing::whistling2:lolololololol
 

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philosopher and statesmen
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Discussion Starter #70
I’m starting to see more and more AO Smith tanks have gas valve & pilot issues.


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Have not seen you much here lately.... What kind of junk are they throwing together on the Smiths---- Whirlpools these days...??..

I know they have the same air intake screens on the bottom of them like the whilrpools and have they now gone to a thermopile type system>???

I think the only reason the smiths were fairly reliable for years was the special odd thermocoupling that they had on them and the robert shaw valve.... they never were a problem

If that has all changed , and you got the pretty blinking lights and thermopile system on the units, then it is gonna be a whole new ballgame for that brand.. It makes them no different than the whirlpool units...


stock up on some parts cause you are gonna need them...:yes::yes:


 

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Just had another one today. BW almost out of the warranty. I might be the one to go out there tomorrow or not...


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philosopher and statesmen
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Discussion Starter #72
Just had another one today. BW almost out of the warranty. I might be the one to go out there tomorrow or not...


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I love when they install those heaters deep in a pan so you cant hardly get
a grip on the bottom screws and get them loose.. almost need a small socket wrench to work on the unit..... We normally like to install those units on bricks to keep the unit out of the flood zone if the t+p valve leaks into the pan and suffocates the air intake on the bottom of the unit

good luck and have fun
 

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I love when they install those heaters deep in a pan so you cant hardly get
a grip on the bottom screws and get them loose.. almost need a small socket wrench to work on the unit..... We normally like to install those units on bricks to keep the unit out of the flood zone if the t+p valve leaks into the pan and suffocates the air intake on the bottom of the unit

good luck and have fun
Sometimes they are on bricks but mostly not
And yeah those bottom screws are a PITA to remove. I actually do use a ratcheting wrench. If I get it I'll post pix tomorrow

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