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www.DunbarPlumbing.com
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is the flue going downhill? other than that, everything looks like it's in order. :rolleyes:paul

  • Flue pipe running downhill instead of uphill
  • CO2 leaks at the wall where flue enters
  • Draft Diverter hood is collapsed at top of Heater
  • Flue Pipe not connected to Draft Diverter
  • No flue screws between diverter/fittings/pipe
The rule here in KY which isn't enforced is whatever size the flue pipe is...you install the same amount of screws per joint.

So 3" flue pipe would require 3 screws per joint. 4" would be 4. Inspector doesn't care if you put all the screws in a tight row; they just want to make sure that if someone bumps into that heater or vibration cannot jarr that piping loose and allow exhaust gases to flow into the structure.


There's probably more that's wrong....hopefully jjbex gets the job security out of that one.


Drilling through that fire brick and installing a cleanout cap where it's going into the wall right now is some nice job security. $$$:yes:
 

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1,644 Posts
I also luv the Teflon tape on the unions :)

I wonder how many people in this world don't realize that the "face" of the union holds the seal not the threads,

That is teflon tape right?
 

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That w.h. is a Whirlpool Flamelock. It will light on pilot, but won't burn. So, a new thermostat has been shipped from the manufacturer and I will install it Mon. I repiped the kitchen waste line two years ago.
I haven't fixed a Whirlpool Flamelock since the first one I did...
The callbacks on that one taught me everything I needed to know about them...

I would have hated to own a bunch of them!

Replacement with a Bradford White is the only thing I would consider...
Even Whirlpool doesn't know how to fix em!
 

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that is a pretty crazy install (but sadly, not something i haven't run across many times). looks like the draft diverter was the one that was on the old heater. it had screws in it at one time but the elbow doesn't look to have any screw holes in it.

the use of teflon tape is hugely missunderstood by the handyhack. i see it all the time on union threads, gargen hose threads, compression fittings, w/h flex connectors, flared gas connections, ect.







paul
 

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I haven't fixed a Whirlpool Flamelock since the first one I did...
The callbacks on that one taught me everything I needed to know about them...

I would have hated to own a bunch of them!

Replacement with a Bradford White is the only thing I would consider...
Even Whirlpool doesn't know how to fix em!

so true.
 

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alright so here's my take on it, so the reason you need a gap on the natural draft from the flue is that the outside air actually slows down the flue gas... So when you take out the air gap, and push it flat like that to the water heater you completely kill the efficiency of the w.h. plus since it ain't a condensate flue you really do need it to be level not have a backfall on it.


and shoot your gas bill way up... oh and how i hate black poly... really a pain in the ass, only ran in the runs to the meters here cause it's cheaper than pex by a little... problem is it goes brittle, and slowly breaks apart in long splits...

i didn't see an expansion tank, but what i did see were dielectric unions, which is good, but that he goes to a brass coupling which is just odd, apparently he just didn't know how to use a tape...
 
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