Here's a few pic of a custom home I did
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Here we don't have to vent the toilets! I think is really retarted!
I throw a Y in with in 5ft from the WC flange. (wet vent) run an 2" line to tub and lav. When I reach the lav I throw in an 2x1 1/2 Y in and roll up to catch my lav (wet vent) off the end of the Y I run and catch my tub or shower. I been doing it this way for 11 years I never sat down and looked it up in the code book. But in the last 4 years I have NOT failed an inspection!:thumbup:
I know every state has there own rules and guide lines. These pic I posted was in a area where the inspectors are They have a License Contractor on the inspection board and he personally looks at all plumbing in there county!
Here we don't have to vent the toilets! I think is really retarted!
I throw a Y in with in 5ft from the WC flange. (wet vent) run an 2" line to tub and lav. When I reach the lav I throw in an 2x1 1/2 Y in and roll up to catch my lav (wet vent) off the end of the Y I run and catch my tub or shower. I been doing it this way for 11 years I never sat down and looked it up in the code book. But in the last 4 years I have NOT failed an inspection!:thumbup:I know every state has there own rules and guide lines. These pic I posted was in a area where the inspectors are
They have a License Contractor on the inspection board and he personally looks at all plumbing in there county!
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I gotta be a plumber, they say ask 4 plumbers how to do someting and get 4 different answers....
Pic #1 I'd have run the 1-1/2" line straight down the bay into the 2" with a 2"x 1-1/2" combo wye rather than drill the joist.
Pic #2 I'd have used a 3" x 2" x 3" wye (with bushing if necessary) to catch the 2" lav/tub drains rather than add the extra offsets on the 2" drain.
As for the venting, it looks like you guys can use wet vents like we can...I can see not needing a vent for a toilet where they're already a full S-trap and depend on the fill valve to refill the trap after siphoning, but a toilet can still siphon from the vacuum/pressure created from other fixtures draining...we're allowed to flat vent WC's here, but nothing else.
All traps in my code must be vented.
One final complaint....how the heck do you work on PVC & NOT get nasty filthy greasy disgusting hand prints all over it?!?:laughing:
Clean work buddy, well done.
Pic #1 I'd have run the 1-1/2" line straight down the bay into the 2" with a 2"x 1-1/2" combo wye rather than drill the joist.
Pic #2 I'd have used a 3" x 2" x 3" wye (with bushing if necessary) to catch the 2" lav/tub drains rather than add the extra offsets on the 2" drain.
As for the venting, it looks like you guys can use wet vents like we can...I can see not needing a vent for a toilet where they're already a full S-trap and depend on the fill valve to refill the trap after siphoning, but a toilet can still siphon from the vacuum/pressure created from other fixtures draining...we're allowed to flat vent WC's here, but nothing else.
All traps in my code must be vented.
One final complaint....how the heck do you work on PVC & NOT get nasty filthy greasy disgusting hand prints all over it?!?:laughing:
Clean work buddy, well done.
It's amazing how codes vary state to state, that job would have to be ripped out if installed here, PEX is not approved, PVC is OK in some area's, but has to be installed with color contrasting primer, and no wet vents of any type are allowed, except a single fixture with no more than one fixture unit may be tied into the base of the stack.
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First of all, clean work!
I guess you used clear Primer? I use purple, messy, but visable. We can only use pvc for water here, but same idea.
That would never pass here. way to many bends, I see plenty of areas that need cleanouts because of all the 1/8's and 1/4's.
Failed in my area, but sure will work well for years to come.
I guess you used clear Primer? I use purple, messy, but visable. We can only use pvc for water here, but same idea.
That would never pass here. way to many bends, I see plenty of areas that need cleanouts because of all the 1/8's and 1/4's.
Failed in my area, but sure will work well for years to come.
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By the way, I like the manifold system on the pex, it insures equal water pressure throught the system, instead of the original way to pipe it.
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:laughing::laughing::laughing: Or within the same state. Its neat to here you mention what is code and not for you up there cuz it is different down here. But for the most part the same.
3Kings, CLEAN! I do like the color scheme RED WHITE & BLUE.
Grumpys right you can ask 4 plumbers and each one will have a different answer or a way they would have done it. What it is, is what it is. It passed then its ok.
In Christ,
Song Dog
I thought they look impressive.22 Rifle said:
They install pretty quickly.
They do cost a bit more.
Now, let's look at advantages:
No tees, nineties, reducers or other fittings buried in the walls. There's just one solid pipe from the manifold to the fixture.
When a fixture needs repaired, you shut off the lines to that fixture only, no need to shut off anything else in the house.
Smaller pipes bend more easily making them easier to install.
Try to imagine an electrical system where you run great big wires across the house and put breaker boxes all through the house to take off one wire at a time . . .
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It does look clean, good job! But like the codes differ from state to state and county to county or for me parishes this would not of passed. We HAVE to individually vent toliets. We have never installed manifolds but they look clean also. They never leave us enough room in these house down here to put one in. Plus another company installed some in the attic down here on some new high rise condos on the river. They did the job in the summer and did not insulate the manifolds..... Yep you guessed it the ruptured and demolished the ceilings in every condo.... Thousands of dollars in damages.
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Without the manifold, each fixture less tub shower valve, will have a shut off at the fixture it's self. This eleminates the need to shut off entire house. Cost lot less to run if you run it with branch lines. Fewer holes to drill if not fewer then smaller holes through your floor joist.
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4. takes longer to get hot water.
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I did a new const. home last year (against my wishes:yes
I used a different type of manifold and used 1000' at .29 per foot= $290 my cost and it went 100 X's quicker that copper or branched trunk line. I asked the GC what would he wanted truck or manifold (makes no difference to me, manifold is would cost him more), he said manifold. OK thats what it will be. Hot and cold had its own 1" copper horizontal manifold with brass ball valves. This example of what I used is when I was using Aquapex type fittings. But the regular crimps is what I used at the house I am talking about. Both manifolds Aquapex and crimp is pretty much the same. I label stick each line so the ho knows whats what.
In Christ,
Song Dog
No and yes. It actually takes less time to get hot water because the pipe is much smaller than the 3/4" or 1" mainline. However, if you get hot water to one fixture, you have to wait for it again at the next fixture, though the water in the manifold itself is still hot, so only the water in the pipe itself counts.Alan said:
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