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Hi - I am an apprentice plumber and know even less about HVAC. I moved my gas hot water heater about 4 feet a week ago. To do this, a new elbow or about 45 degree joint in the flue pipe metal tubing was made. I noticed when we're using hot water and the hot water heater is engaged, condensation begins leaking from a very small leak in this joint between flue pipe pieces. I will note that it has been very cold here in Chicago this week, and I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I checked my roof, and while there appears to be a good amount of ice around the cap, it still seems to be on.
My first question is, even if I didn't have the leak, this water would be running back into the water heater top - is this normal at times? I would think rust would be an issue.
Next, what is the recommendation on how to best seal the joints between vents. I thought just 3 screws would do. With CO passing upwards, I'm concerned some could escape into my unfinished basement.
Lastly, part of the flue vent rests on a wooden floor joist before running upward to the next floor. I would think this gets too hot for that to be acceptable.
Please let me know your thoughts, and thanks in advance.
 

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Hi cubfan Mark how about an into from you, so we know a little more about you, like where you from and what code you use, you know the kind of stuff plumbers like to know. That will help us help you more.
 

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Master Plumber
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Hi - I am an apprentice plumber and know even less about HVAC. I moved my gas hot water heater about 4 feet a week ago. To do this, a new elbow or about 45 degree joint in the flue pipe metal tubing was made. I noticed when we're using hot water and the hot water heater is engaged, condensation begins leaking from a very small leak in this joint between flue pipe pieces. I will note that it has been very cold here in Chicago this week, and I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I checked my roof, and while there appears to be a good amount of ice around the cap, it still seems to be on.
My first question is, even if I didn't have the leak, this water would be running back into the water heater top - is this normal at times? I would think rust would be an issue.
Next, what is the recommendation on how to best seal the joints between vents. I thought just 3 screws would do. With CO passing upwards, I'm concerned some could escape into my unfinished basement.
Lastly, part of the flue vent rests on a wooden floor joist before running upward to the next floor. I would think this gets too hot for that to be acceptable.
Please let me know your thoughts, and thanks in advance.
Ask your boss.
 

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I aint CPV see in it?
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put some pipe dope on your screws for the connections, then as far as it resting on the wooden floor joist, wrap that in duct tape and stapel a stud gaurd on there. That should do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
22Rif - I have been an apprentice plumber before, but the company went out of business 6 weeks after I started. I now work at a small HVAC business and am just trying to figure things out. Give me a break please. I recognize I don't know anything and am just looking for a little guidance so I can bring a more informed mindset to work.
 

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OK people, slack up. He did say he was an apprentice, so that qualifies him to be here.

Licensed masters
Journeymen
Apprentice
Companies who have in their employ
And yes plumbcrazy, spouse who have a significant other who meets the above.

Enough bashing.
 

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if you have leaking, something is in backwards, big red flag. the flue pipe material should be 26 gauge galv at least. and i know chicago has a good strict code. my code says any single wall must be 6" from combustables i.e. wood, drywall, insulation, etc. b-vent, or double wall must be 1" from said combustibles. i know your an apprentice, this is a big safety issue. check w/ your boss. if he says its ok, you may want to consider another shop for your apprenticeship. good luck, but dont depend on luck.
 
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