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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m pretty sure I know the answer, and so do you. But this one has a odd factor.
We put in a Rheem 50 ng/cv about 6-7 years ago. He said sometimes he gets hot water, sometimes it’s fine. When he runs some hot water it takes forever to recover. Sometimes they go a day without hot water.

They only have one single. The heater was maxed when I got there. Had a laundry list today and he added three drains. Not today. Is there a overheat sensor on a rheem that could trip because of a single?

Very conflicting story unless the single is on position when it happens.

Also, F‘ck all of you guys who think silicone is the sh!t! I shouldn’t have to use a F’king hammer to beat out a disposal basket and spend a half hour scraping that crap off!
 

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I’m pretty sure I know the answer, and so do you. But this one has a odd factor.
We put in a Rheem 50 ng/cv about 6-7 years ago. He said sometimes he gets hot water, sometimes it’s fine. When he runs some hot water it takes forever to recover. Sometimes they go a day without hot water.

They only have one single. The heater was maxed when I got there. Had a laundry list today and he added three drains. Not today. Is there a overheat sensor on a rheem that could trip because of a single?

Very conflicting story unless the single is on position when it happens.

Also, F‘ck all of you guys who think silicone is the sh!t! I shouldn’t have to use a F’king hammer to beat out a disposal basket and spend a half hour scraping that crap off!
50 gallon natural? What's 'cv'?
Gas control valve and there's probably more to the story.
F'k silicone.
 

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You need a cupped wire brush for cleaning off silicone and other crap. Obviously can't use it on all surfaces but it's great for stainless sinks. Makes them look brand new. Also nice for cleaning cast before using a fernco/no-hub. Works nice on cast flanges too. I use mine all the time, especially when changing out kitchen faucets/basket strainers.


Eye Automotive lighting Cosmetics Brush Automotive tire
 

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I’m pretty sure I know the answer, and so do you. But this one has a odd factor.
We put in a Rheem 50 ng/cv about 6-7 years ago. He said sometimes he gets hot water, sometimes it’s fine. When he runs some hot water it takes forever to recover. Sometimes they go a day without hot water.

They only have one single. The heater was maxed when I got there. Had a laundry list today and he added three drains. Not today. Is there a overheat sensor on a rheem that could trip because of a single?

Very conflicting story unless the single is on position when it happens.

Also, F‘ck all of you guys who think silicone is the sh!t! I shouldn’t have to use a F’king hammer to beat out a disposal basket and spend a half hour scraping that crap off!
Need new heater
 

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I’ve seen stuff like this before where debris, calcium, whatever gets built up on the thermostat part (tank end) part of the control valve. Honeywell controls, I think. Calcium carbonate (lime scale) is less soluble in hot water and will precipitate out of water and crystallize on just about anything. I got one working by just draining the tank. Another, I pulled the controls and cleaned.

I would also check the dip tube. It seems like people loose a dip tube, don’t realize it and crank up their heater trying to squeeze more hot water out of it.

Edit: also f- silicone.
 

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I’m pretty sure I know the answer, and so do you. But this one has a odd factor.
We put in a Rheem 50 ng/cv about 6-7 years ago. He said sometimes he gets hot water, sometimes it’s fine. When he runs some hot water it takes forever to recover. Sometimes they go a day without hot water.

They only have one single. The heater was maxed when I got there. Had a laundry list today and he added three drains. Not today. Is there a overheat sensor on a rheem that could trip because of a single?

Very conflicting story unless the single is on position when it happens.

Also, F‘ck all of you guys who think silicone is the sh!t! I shouldn’t have to use a F’king hammer to beat out a disposal basket and spend a half hour scraping that crap off!

Hey, I LOVE using clear silicone on kitchen sink baskets and disposal baskets....
those puppies NEVER leak.....NEVER move either., works great on lavatory pop up assemblies too
I really like to smear it onto the bottom rubber and threads... they never leak again.....:p:p:p:p

If you want to remove a basket the trick is you heat it up with an aceyteline torch first..
get it red hot and it will break loose. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: .
.
...
 

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Also, F‘ck all of you guys who think silicone is the sh!t! I shouldn’t have to use a F’king hammer to beat out a disposal basket and spend a half hour scraping that crap off!
Just use the cardboard friction ring on the wrong side and you’ll be fine. I swear I don’t understand how hacks can do something wrong and it doesn’t leak but if I tried that in a pinch it would be pouring water.
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Just use the cardboard friction ring on the wrong side and you’ll be fine. I swear I don’t understand how hacks can do something wrong and it doesn’t leak but if I tried that in a pinch it would be pouring water. View attachment 131473
Haha, there were 6 disposals set the same way out of 10 houses I had to walk for final punch about a month ago. Good thing the subs were down the street trimming out another house, I had them come over to fix and learn the proper way.

And as for those using silicone on basket strainers and disposal flanges, if you've had movement or leaks using putty in the past, you were doing it wrong. I've never had those issues using putty. Most issues with basket strainers are if you use too much putty and it pushes the gasket under the sink out of place. And yes, I've been back for service work on houses we built, like kitchen faucet cartridge leaks, and after many years still never saw an issue with movement or leaking at the strainer/disposal flange.
 

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......... if you've had movement or leaks using putty in the past, you were doing it wrong. I've never had those issues using putty. ...........
Exactly. Putty has been around longer than wax seals. I've taken off plenty of drains and faucets where the putty seal outlasted the brass, and both were more than 100 years old!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Went back to that house yesterday. Different issue. When I left the last time I turned the heater from max down to A, just above normal. The man of the house was at work, but his adult son was home. I think I’m going to have better luck with the kid following directions. I did flush the heater this time and I can tell that I wasn’t up to temp. The last time, maxed out, it was definitely over 160°, this time I don’t think it was even 120° straight from the heater.

The municipal water quality in this neighborhood is the best you can get in Michigan. Only water that’s better is well in the UP and upper lower.

Tank is under warranty, controls are not. I might pull the control valve to check for corrosion, but I doubt it, same with the tube. I’ve seen well water destroy a heater in three years in my area, but not from this municipality.

I have a game plan, just need to have them follow instructions. The one single they have is a 15+ y/o delta kitchen faucet. It leaks from the cartridge when you turn it on, so that’s still a possibility. The kinda faucet that might be fixable, maybe.
 
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