Hanging Waste
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I'm seeing zip sticks for the most part in this area. I rarely see plumbers tape used anymore.
There are a couple plumbers that use 7/16" LP siding material (OSB) to make DWV hangers that are pretty slick. They cut it in strips wide enough to use a hole saw to drill a perfect pipe-sized hole. The strips are about a foot long in most cases. When they install the pipe they run a few of the hangers on it and slide them down to space them out. A screw or two in the floor joist at one end, set the fall, and then attach the remainder.
Normally I wouldn't advocate using wood for plumbing support just because the workmanship often looks cheesy, but this method is solid and it looks very professional.
There are a couple plumbers that use 7/16" LP siding material (OSB) to make DWV hangers that are pretty slick. They cut it in strips wide enough to use a hole saw to drill a perfect pipe-sized hole. The strips are about a foot long in most cases. When they install the pipe they run a few of the hangers on it and slide them down to space them out. A screw or two in the floor joist at one end, set the fall, and then attach the remainder.
Normally I wouldn't advocate using wood for plumbing support just because the workmanship often looks cheesy, but this method is solid and it looks very professional.
When I was still plumbing houses, I would attach to joists using j-hooks on the side, or holes when crossing them. I seldom used wood blocks except for hydrants or tub/shower valves. I had used blocks to support stubouts, but eventually switched to copper straps.
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828 Posts
I see plastic p-tape in my area. I am now seeing zip sticks, but not really that much. I will get into the habit of using zip sticks, because it looks better and is easier. costly, but better in the long run.
I use hyco bars and holdrites on my valves and stubs. visit my web site, projects page, and you will see strapping if you are unsure of what I am saying.
I use hyco bars and holdrites on my valves and stubs. visit my web site, projects page, and you will see strapping if you are unsure of what I am saying.
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378 Posts
For dwv I still use plumbers tape,I have used the J-hooks and the zip hangers look nice.As Killer said,clevis for in the air for masonry/concrete or beams.
Water supply will be anything from touch-down clamps,to talon straps,2-hole straps,copper rough-in strips,and I still use a lot of wood for backing,cheesy or not it adds to the integrity of the work. and over-all strength.Sometimes I install metal plating for backing for wall hung commercial fixtures.
Water supply will be anything from touch-down clamps,to talon straps,2-hole straps,copper rough-in strips,and I still use a lot of wood for backing,cheesy or not it adds to the integrity of the work. and over-all strength.Sometimes I install metal plating for backing for wall hung commercial fixtures.
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1,401 Posts
We've used both. Some houses a combination.
Things I don't like about zip sticks is that the holes don't always line up right for engineered joists, so you almost have to cut blocks anyway just so the nails will be solid. Also, their measurments are bogus.
Things I don't like about zip sticks is that the holes don't always line up right for engineered joists, so you almost have to cut blocks anyway just so the nails will be solid. Also, their measurments are bogus.
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8,808 Posts
Yep the marking are not accurate, that's what a tape measure is for.We've used both. Some houses a combination.
Things I don't like about zip sticks is that the holes don't always line up right for engineered joists, so you almost have to cut blocks anyway just so the nails will be solid. Also, their measurments are bogus.
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8,808 Posts
Been long time since I tried J-Hooks, Zip sticks are for all sizes, easy to lay out, cut to length, grade at 1/4" per foot, here we support every 4', so each stick is 1" shorter then the last one, makes for a fast hanging of the waste, we set them all up, clean straight line, slip the pipe in the loose noose, and when ready, pull the zips tight and that's it.
J-Hooks you have to have all sizes avail, waste in time IMO
J-Hooks you have to have all sizes avail, waste in time IMO
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1,401 Posts
Yeah, but thats the whole sales hype about them.... no more measuring!!!!!!!
Ran a long straight run today with them... ~ 60 feet. No fittings in the middle of it. Thing wobbles like nobody's business. 2x4 every here and there for stability on long runs are great.
P.S. They suck on engineered joists once you need a longer one, you have to cut blocks anyway.
I like 2x4 + P-Tape most of the time I think. Be interesting to see how this evolves over the years.
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8,808 Posts
Alan your so right about movement side to side, that's way you hammer two nails in them, but to me it's about looks, they look sharp and who cares they support the pipe and when it's all said and done, it's not going no where.
Time is money, and the faster you can rough the more money you make, I don't have the time to block and p-tape like you might have, side by side I can hang waster long before your done blocking and p-taping.
Time is money, and the faster you can rough the more money you make, I don't have the time to block and p-tape like you might have, side by side I can hang waster long before your done blocking and p-taping.
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4,909 Posts
I use plumbers tape for dwv and talons with water next to a wall. For water through a stud I use sioux chief grommets that you drill a 1 3/8 hole(can't think of the name). For any exposed water, I use split rings or uni strut w/ clamps. Sammy anchors when dealing with all thread in concrete or wood.
What is a sammy anchor?
Do you use the pipe insulators or the Suspensulators? I love the Suspensulators but I have to special order them. You can't even buy regular insulators around here. If it ain't cheap... Ugh!
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