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I did a job the other day and I had to locate a smell in a basement bathroom. The flange wasn't screwed in the concrete and the horn wax askew so the foul waste water seeped under the tiles. The guy who is a young cop emailed me back a couple days writing the smell is still there. I told him to call an after disaster company and call his insurance too.

So I'm thinking the best way would be to remove the tiles, scrape the mortar off the tiles and concrete, clean the concrete and re-tile. However what would be a temporary fix to remove the smell? Pour some bleach around the flange? Maybe liquid enzyme that neutralizes cat pee smell?

What about when the same thing happens and it's a wooden floor?
 

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I did a job the other day and I had to locate a smell in a basement bathroom. The flange wasn't screwed in the concrete and the horn wax askew so the foul waste water seeped under the tiles. The guy who is a young cop emailed me back a couple days writing the smell is still there. I told him to call an after disaster company and call his insurance too.

So I'm thinking the best way would be to remove the tiles, scrape the mortar off the tiles and concrete, clean the concrete and re-tile. However what would be a temporary fix to remove the smell? Pour some bleach around the flange? Maybe liquid enzyme that neutralizes cat pee smell?

What about when the same thing happens and it's a wooden floor?
How much water are we talking about?
I don’t think that would cause a constant foul smell, you need to do a smoke test and check for hacked in vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How much water are we talking about?
I don’t think that would cause a constant foul smell, you need to do a smoke test and check for hacked in vents.
Toilet wax seal letting water through so the amount is unknown.

As for a smoke test I never seen it done so I'm not familiar and up till now it wasn't really needed. I've been asked to find a floor drain a few times though but I pass on them.
 

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Toilet wax seal letting water through so the amount is unknown.

As for a smoke test I never seen it done so I'm not familiar and up till now it wasn't really needed. I've been asked to find a floor drain a few times though but I pass on them.

as coincidence I was looking at building my own smoke tester, basically they are a fan with a hose hooked up to them, to buy one already made runs about $500, to build one is about $200 and then you just buy the smoke candles...
just mix a strong bleach solution say 1 to 10 and let it soak in and dry, that should take care of any smell and germs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
as coincidence I was looking at building my own smoke tester, basically they are a fan with a hose hooked up to them, to buy one already made runs about $500, to build one is about $200 and then you just buy the smoke candles...
just mix a strong bleach solution say 1 to 10 and let it soak in and dry, that should take care of any smell and germs...
The smoke test is interesting. I'd need to be able to plug the 4" going to the street with an inflatable ball? But then then there would be smoke probably surrounding the area in the basement. Plugging the roof stack exit would be impossible, too high and I don't have a truck rack or ladder.

I'll have to take a look at my thread again to locate hidden floor drains. However even smoke not be the way to do it as water can stay for years before it evaporates.
 

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The smoke test is interesting. I'd need to be able to plug the 4" going to the street with an inflatable ball? But then then there would be smoke probably surrounding the area in the basement. Plugging the roof stack exit would be impossible, too high and I don't have a truck rack or ladder.

I'll have to take a look at my thread again to locate hidden floor drains. However even smoke not be the way to do it as water can stay for years before it evaporates.
I dont know what water you deal with but any open trap the water will evaporate in a few weeks of none use...
 

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Just put a metal pan inside of a shop vac with legs so the bottom of the pan doesn't melt the bottom of the shop vac, that's what we do. If you want to get fancy make a chute from the inlet to the pan so you don't have to open the shop vac to put a smoke pellet in.


Another easy solution is a metal tube coming off the inlet with an adjustable closure so you can place a pellet in and limit the amount of airflow.








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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I dont know what water you deal with but any open trap the water will evaporate in a few weeks of none use...
I sometimes talk to people about filling the 3" floor drain and most say they never knew about that and never refilled it since they bought their house years and years ago.
 

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I did a job the other day and I had to locate a smell in a basement bathroom. The flange wasn't screwed in the concrete and the horn wax askew so the foul waste water seeped under the tiles. The guy who is a young cop emailed me back a couple days writing the smell is still there. I told him to call an after disaster company and call his insurance too.

So I'm thinking the best way would be to remove the tiles, scrape the mortar off the tiles and concrete, clean the concrete and re-tile. However what would be a temporary fix to remove the smell? Pour some bleach around the flange? Maybe liquid enzyme that neutralizes cat pee smell?

What about when the same thing happens and it's a wooden floor?


Just throw some bleach on the wood and floor and see what happens.....

after the bleach throw some vinegar on the floor and you will get it smelling like salad dressing... thousand island is best..:vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


And Exactly how strong is the smell anyway????

Please keep in mind that if this guy has small kids , going through toilet training, who piss all over the general area......

or their are elderly old guys getting up in the middle of the night and hosing down the whole area in their sleep.....Now .THAT is impossible to get rid of......

we have done both of these dances with the customers over the years on this subject and some will admit to it , while others will take offence to blaming their boys and grandpa..... or blaming them for spraying down the area...

if it is almost like a pure urine smell , this is not space science here or you dont need Dick Tracy to figure out what is going on ..:vs_cool:




 

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I sometimes talk to people about filling the 3" floor drain and most say they never knew about that and never refilled it since they bought their house years and years ago.



An old maintenance guys trick is a table spoon of vegetable oil in the trap. It floats on top of the water on the inlet side and stops the water from evaporating.






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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thats why many floor drains in low use areas need trap primers to be installed...
No primers in houses. Some in the other province but only recently.

The guy didn't call me back, I hope he doesn't give me trouble saying I have to guarantee, whatever.
 

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No primers in houses. Some in the other province but only recently.

The guy didn't call me back, I hope he doesn't give me trouble saying I have to guarantee, whatever.
I just did a washing machine floor drain and put a trap primer on...the only water the trap will see is a flood that may never happen and the drain ends up under the machine..so no way to manually fill it..
 

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I just did a washing machine floor drain and put a trap primer on...the only water the trap will see is a flood that may never happen and the drain ends up under the machine..so no way to manually fill it..



Cut a groove in the floor leading out from under the machine? lolz jk



In all seriousness I do think trap primers are a good option in commercial but in residential I am not sure. I don't have much experience with them but I have heard all the stories of the lines either filling up with gunk or the trap primers them selves just corroding shut after a couple years and not working anyway.


I have heard the best option is a trap primer line that is fed from the sink drain tailpiece. I would add a couple hose fittings right under the sink so you can just hook a garden hose up and blow out the gunk when necessary.



I really don't have much experience with trap primers but i have plenty of experience with dried out traps. When a customer calls complaining of a smell we ask the pertinent questions and tell them to fill the traps if necessary. Most of our floor drains in residential aren't hooked to the sewer, it's a bad idea anyway if something clogs. Even in densely populated areas we just install sump pits that eject all over the neighbors siding!!:biggrin:








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Cut a groove in the floor leading out from under the machine? lolz jk



In all seriousness I do think trap primers are a good option in commercial but in residential I am not sure. I don't have much experience with them but I have heard all the stories of the lines either filling up with gunk or the trap primers them selves just corroding shut after a couple years and not working anyway.


I have heard the best option is a trap primer line that is fed from the sink drain tailpiece. I would add a couple hose fittings right under the sink so you can just hook a garden hose up and blow out the gunk when necessary.



I really don't have much experience with trap primers but i have plenty of experience with dried out traps. When a customer calls complaining of a smell we ask the pertinent questions and tell them to fill the traps if necessary. Most of our floor drains in residential aren't hooked to the sewer, it's a bad idea anyway if something clogs. Even in densely populated areas we just install sump pits that eject all over the neighbors siding!!:biggrin:








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this was a residential trap primer, they work great, but with any mechanical device it needs servicing every once in a while...
they work on pressure difference, when the washing machine runs and lowers the water pressure the trap primer opens and puts water in the trap...
proper installation is key, it has to be in close proximity to the washing machine feed valve to work properly..
 

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An old maintenance guys trick is a table spoon of vegetable oil in the trap. It floats on top of the water on the inlet side and stops the water from evaporating.






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thats good if you dont want all kinds of insects looking for food....and eventually the veg oil breaks down and smells , you would be better off with regular clean motor or mineral oil....
or better yet the flushless urinals use some type of liquid just for that purpose...
 
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