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Which do you use for residential potable?

  • Gate valves

    Votes: 2 3.1%
  • Globe valves

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Ball valves

    Votes: 63 96.9%
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Professional Bullshioter
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Ball.

I prefer valves that actually work later.

Anyone installing gate valves on potable lines is cheating the consumer. I don't care if they are "best line" gate valves. :laughing:
 

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Dropped gate valves are a real problem. Not being able to shut one off completely when needed can cause significant damage.

Ball valves for us.
 

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www.DunbarPlumbing.com
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Where is the poll that pcplumber put up a year or two ago, might of been someone else that asked "Would you install a gate valve" or something of the nature that had a poll that overwhelmingly had votes for ball valve?

If anyone knows where it is at, I've got a good reason to drudge it up in relation to this one.

There was 2 votes for gate valves, the rest were ball valves.
 

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Former Moderator
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Glad I'm not on trial for murder and this forum is my jury. I'd be in prison the rest of my life while waiting for the verdict.

And I did not know Nibco's were bronze. They do look sort of brown now that you mentioned it. You are very knowledgeable.

This means we have been lying to our customers for many years.
Last edited by BatonRougePlumb; 01-30-2009 at 08:44 PM..
I think this is what you were referring to Dunbar. PCP weighed in on the issue.
 

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12,486 Posts
I install ball valves.

But thank God the plumbers back in the day installed gate valves!....:clap:

Every night when I say my prayers, I thank God for gate valves, PB pipe and "glass-lined" W/H's. :laughing:
 

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Ball valve

Gates have too many problems with debris in the race.

Globe valves are overkill.
 

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Gate valves, globe valves or ball valves for residential potable water is the thread title.....

Is it an isolation valve for a water heater, or an outside faucet, or riser valves to shut down 25 floors, perhaps a valve that feeds a piece of machinery?

There are many applications that need valves in a potable water system, but perhaps my question was not on topic.
 

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٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶&#
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
see bold

Is it an isolation valve for a water heater, Yes or an outside faucet YES, or riser valves to shut down 25 floors NO, perhaps a valve that feeds a piece of machinery NO?

There are many applications that need valves in a potable water system, but perhaps my question was not on topic.
 

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I vote ball valve, had plenty of gate valves rot at the stem rendering them useless or having them drop down in the valve causing pressure problems and having them buried underground not knowing there is one after the meter.
 

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My work carries ball and globe, some old customers aren't to sure about those ball valves, believe it or not. But in a house I prefer ball valves. When you're installing flanged valves in the ground, I have no problems with gate valves, the new ones are pretty nice
 

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www.DunbarPlumbing.com
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The reason I asked about this,



New construction plumbers are putting in these gate valves because they are cheaper than ball valves. They are a working valve when first installed, and it's years later from not being exercised to keep the calcium from building up in the guides that makes them hang up and snap at the threads.


But baton rouge plumber aka pcplumber was for the gate valves, and I think I know why:


From the perspective of return value, meaning it's a product that's going to go bad, eventually. Damn near everything we install, like a fill valve, supply line, faucet, they all go bad... eventually.

We as plumbers take on two different venues of what is best interest for the customer.

You install a ball valve, it's most like the last valve being installed for the application, unless of course if it is a BK Mueller valve which is absolute junk. Seen too many cancer out in short time because the sockets are way too thin, casting shows how they just do not hold up.


If you install a gate for a gate, you have a choice to inform the customer that IF they exercise the valve once a year, it will hold up over time with no issues. That's true in a lot of ways.


For anyone that thinks that's a retarded point of view?

You plumbers installing those cpvc shutoffs are the worst. Those don't last even 2-3 years and they break most of the time when you need them most.

Never should those of been legal, ever but once again this all falls on the plumber saving a buck at the builder's command. Grow a F-ing spine, you guys are making guys like me very profitable and I'd rather do it in other ways through maintenance, not someone working at rail thin margins.
 

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Is it an isolation valve for a water heater, YES or an outside faucet YES, or riser valves to shut down 25 floors NO, perhaps a valve that feeds a piece of machinery NO?
For water heaters in single family homes I liked using Butterball butterfly valves from Milwaukee, they didn't suffer from the stiffening that occurs in the teflon seats of most ball valves due to the hot water expansion.

On outside faucets I always use a stop and waste valve, even if it is for a FF sillcock, and showed the homeowner the proper way to shut it off and drain it in autumn. This application does not warrant the cost of a drainable ball valve, some would say it is a waste as it is a valve to serve a valve.
 
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