nope, I would never attempt it as you will never find the
parts that are compatable

 

Do it.

 

Do it.

What Palpatine said.

 

If the customer wants to try a cheaper route then have them sign off in advance that you get paid both ways if the first approach doesn't work.

 

If the customer wants to try a cheaper route then have them sign off in advance that you get paid both ways if the first approach doesn't work.

Customer is good. Always pays.

I'm trying to figure out an easy way for me, AND to not open a can of worms.

The boiler pump is below the valve connected by a 5"x3" nip. Valve then more pipe...

I don't even know if I'll be able to unscrew the parts without breaking something in the process.

That's why I'm asking about the valve itself.
Being those parts are probably 20+ years old I don't even know if the maker of the valve still makes them the same way.

To make a long story short, I'm fishing for more experienced plumbers that may have dealt with this before and seeking advice.

Do I try repairing or replacing?

 

Replace it with a ballvalve

 

Heat the valve itself but try not to heat the pipe and it should break free. I've got to do this to a 60's boiler thats been rebuilt in the 90's next week. I'll let ya know how it goes.

 

A 3" gate valve might be expensive enough to be standardized and might have a model # on it you could look up.

 

A 3" gate valve might be expensive enough to be standardized and might have a model # on it you could look up.

Maybe, I don't think I took any pictures because I don't remember seeing any info on it.

Besides, I'm probably going to hold off until after this winter season.

I'll post again in 7ish months.

 

The threads on the bonnet nut will probably not match. I've tried this feat before.

 

WHAT TOMMY SAYS.....
The threads on the bonnet nut will probably not match. I've tried this feat before.

you are barking up the wrong tree.....

 

The threads on the bonnet nut will probably not match. I've tried this feat before.

WHAT TOMMY SAYS.....
The threads on the bonnet nut will probably not match. I've tried this feat before.

you are barking up the wrong tree.....

 

Don't fight it just change it all, likelihood of going through all of the effort to just patch it and it still leaks is pretty high and then it is your fault because it "still leaks"...as long as it isn't a hospital or somewhere you have to get it back up and running very quickly, just bite the bullet and plan on replacing all of it.

As of others have said above, we have all tried it and it usually doesn't work, we all speaking from experience.

 

The seat in the valve usually doesn't want to fit up with the new bonnet. I agree with JimmyMac, replace it or you'll own it when it leaks again.