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Discussion Starter #1
I have always installed ball valves and have always been in new construction.


So.....I have had few dealings with gate valves.

I need to 'rebuild' the gate valve you see in the pictures. It has no markings on it at all. Any advice would be appreciated.


Further info for the curious: 2 gate valves on either side of meter, neither shut the water down.
Curb stop (8'deep) also doesn't shut the water down. 1st Gate valve is only 6" above slab so no room to freeze the line and solder in new valve. That is why I would like to rebuild the one.....then I will replace the 2nd one. I will shut the curb stop down to a slow stream while repairing the first valve......(and this was not even the original reason for the call)


Thanks
 

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I agree. There is not much likelihood of finding another valve to get parts from. That's a super-cheap valve. So, no matter what it takes, you need to replace it.

If the city valve doesn't shut off the water, then get them to replace that. It's rare that one of those doesn't work.

How about this:

Shut off the city valve until you get a trickle. Cut the pipe off above the first gate valve. Open it. Get a piece of 3/8" soft copper tube and thread it into the pipe as far down as you can get it. Use a shop vac on the end of the 3/8" tube to keep the water sucked out while you remove the valve and replace it. I'd put an adapter on the pipe so that you can screw another valve on even when there's water running.
 

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Any reason you can't just add a full port ball valve on the front side of that gate somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
this valve in the picture is not the tough one to replace, the meter is just to the left of this picture, so I will pull the meter and sweat in new ball valve while water drains into shallow bucket.

The reason I wanted to rebuild valve is to repair the one prior to the meter, which is only 5"-6" above the slab. If I cut that one out and have any problems getting solder to take (even with shop vac idea) I am screwed as there is not other way to shut water down.

Curb stops are homeowners responsibility not water dept.

Thanks for the input, I will just replace the valve after the meter, this will give them a whole house (functioning) shut off.

hopefully the water district never needs to service their meter.
 

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You can buy the exact same valve and swap out the bonnets and gates.
 

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AKA house plumber
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shut the curb stop off. stick a jet sweat in there at the gate valve. heat it up with your torch to unsweat it. Clean the copper up real good. Apply flux and install full port ball valve. Solder ball valve. and so on

Also, they make jet sweats that will continue to drain water out of the handle that won't affect your soldering. A regular jet sweat shouldn't be used with pressure building up on it.
 

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It doesn't look like it's that old of a gate valve. Is it a Hammond? They're pretty common. At least in Florida they are.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
House and airgap.

If I could find the same valve that would make it simple, but then again that is my original question, what brand valve is it.....no markings on it, and I am not familiar enough w/GV's I am a BV man myself.
 

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shut the curb stop off. stick a jet sweat in there at the gate valve. heat it up with your torch to unsweat it. Clean the copper up real good. Apply flux and install full port ball valve. Solder ball valve. and so on

Also, they make jet sweats that will continue to drain water out of the handle that won't affect your soldering. A regular jet sweat shouldn't be used with pressure building up on it.

You're right houseplumber it's not a hard one, I've got to wonder. There are so many different options to make this work. :whistling2:
 

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House and airgap.

If I could find the same valve that would make it simple, but then again that is my original question, what brand valve is it.....no markings on it, and I am not familiar enough w/GV's I am a BV man myself.

I don't know anyone that tries to fix a defective gate valve, just doesn't happen. Replace the thing and be done with it. You have jet swets as you were told a number of times, you have propress, hell you have bread if you have to do it that way.:thumbsup:
 

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Disconnect the water meter nipple, hell the meter is right there right? and you won't need to worry about the water disrupting your soldering job, reconnect when done.
 

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House and airgap.

If I could find the same valve that would make it simple, but then again that is my original question, what brand valve is it.....no markings on it, and I am not familiar enough w/GV's I am a BV man myself.
It's an import that was made in either Taiwan or Korea, and distributed through one of the many plumbing wholesale import suppliers, like B & K or Jones Stephens.
 

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Option 1

Go by the water dept or local municipal water supply and get a meter 1/2 union with threads on the outlet. Install short brass nipple and threaded ball valve. Cut the old mess out with the curb stop turned off and thread on the new with the ball valve open. Rebuild down stream as you wish.

Option 2

You have threads to the left of that 90 just below the failed ball valve. See option 1 and don't worry about the 1/2 union.

Before I attempted either of these, I'd make sure of three things.

1. I know how much water is still gonna come through that pipe.
2. All the downstream fixtures have been drained, and toilets flushed.
3. The nearest floor drain is not stopped up!

Option 3

This is the one I like the best. Dig up that defective curb stop and replace it. Then replace all those stupid gate valves with good quality ball valves.

This last option is in the best interests of your client. Anything less than this and they're just asking for a problem down the road. With my luck, it would be sooner than later.
 
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