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٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶&#
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So I've had 2 valves leak at the tank gasket in 2 months.

I'm standing here waiting on this valve to make sure a slow drip doesn't show up and I decided to examine the defective one while I wait. It looks like the casting flash on the bottom of the valve's flange is cutting into the gasket. I just cut the casting flash off and reinstalled with a new gasket. I'll post some pics when I get home this evening.

Keep an eye out for this problem.

(sent from my droid x)
 

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I liked 'em for a while ,,, but i'm going back to the old plastic ones . If the entire thing was brass ,,, then i'd be happy but after having SEVERAL leak ,,, sorry and Goodbye
 

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I think they should just stop trying to improve the 400A.

Had a couple of Pro-45's leak myself and stopped using them...

That Leak Sentry they came out with was pure junk...

I'll stick with what works...
 

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Hey Red, I thought you used the Wolverine Brass ballcocks with the copper float balls. Then you can justify $ 500.00 for a minor tank re-build. And if you use a brass flush valve, then you can charge $ 700.00 for a major tank re-build. :laughing:
 

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Hey Red, I thought you used the Wolverine Brass ballcocks with the copper float balls. Then you can justify $ 500.00 for a minor tank re-build. And if you use a brass flush valve, then you can charge $ 700.00 for a major tank re-build. :laughing:
No I prefer to nail them for labor, parts cut into profit...:laughing:
 

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never shuts off completely. runs on it's own, even if the flapper, overflow, etc is fine. I've had more luck with the Pro45B than I have with the 400A
 

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Recently I've had several pro 45's leak by from the red cap. I hate manufacturer defects.:furious::furious::furious:

I'll give them the benefit of the doubt, I must have installed a 1000 400a's over the years without a defect. Maybe a bad batch.
 

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I've never had much trouble with the 400A with being defective out of the box.


I never jumped on the bandwagon for any of the others, just because I had no reason to go to brass. I'd rather have plastic on plastic than plastic on brass.

Think about it; it's a female adaptor onto a male brass shank. Which one do you think is going to contract and expand.


I used to be able to get 400A's for $4.62 a fill valve but now the norm is $6.49... I don't care if it's $ 8.99; I'm charging $10 for that valve if I bring it and install it.

If the margin is small on the high purchase price from a mom&pop hardware, I'll make it up somewhere else on the ticket.
 

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Pulled 3 Fluidmasters this year with a hairline fracture on the plastic shank & not very old.

Went to the brass shank. Zero problems.
 

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Pulled 3 Fluidmasters this year with a hairline fracture on the plastic shank & not very old.

Went to the brass shank. Zero problems.
Maybe a bigger pair of channel locks would help....:whistling2:
 

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Maybe a bigger pair of channel locks would help....:whistling2:
Maybe you shouldn't make the incorrect assumption that the hairline cracked valves were installed by me. :whistling2:

None were. Changed to the brass shank because I started seeing this.

This ain't my first rodeo.
 

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Maybe you shouldn't make the incorrect assumption that the hairline cracked valves were installed by me. :whistling2:

None were. Changed to the brass shank because I started seeing this.

This ain't my first rodeo.
Sheesh take it easy...:laughing:

I'm Just Saying....
When you talk about cracking on a plastic shanked 400A it was overtightened...

Look for a new product coming out soon with a torque limiting nut to prevent over-tightening. Contractor Magazine had a survey recently on a product with these. I stated it was a great gimmick for DIYers and as a plumber I was not interested in it....:laughing:
 

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Sheesh take it easy...:laughing:

I'm Just Saying....
When you talk about cracking on a plastic shanked 400A it was overtightened...

Look for a new product coming out soon with a torque limiting nut to prevent over-tightening. Contractor Magazine had a survey recently on a product with these. I stated it was a great gimmick for DIYers and as a plumber I was not interested in it....:laughing:
I would tend to agree...but....

One of the plastic ones I removed had a flex supply connected I removed with my hand. :blink:

Also been to many with the supply nut broken around the circumference as I'm sure others have. And rare, but a mounting nut or two.

I don't know why we all tolerate this plastic connection. While I know there are millions of installations, seems it still should be brass shank, mounting nut, supply nut.

Most good plumbers I know would consider a plastic shank faucet with plastic supply nuts garbage. Yet we lend a blind eye to this.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Most supply houses stock toilet supplies with brass nuts.

A bras but on a brass shank is bullet proof.

Now if they could only cast a decent plastic flange on the bottom of the valve. I dunno why they don't just cast the flange in brass too and make the transition to plastic above the flange........

I would tend to agree...but....

One of the plastic ones I removed had a flex supply connected I removed with my hand. :blink:

Also been to many with the supply nut broken around the circumference as I'm sure others have. And rare, but a mounting nut or two.

I don't know why we all tolerate this plastic connection. While I know there are millions of installations, seems it still should be brass shank, mounting nut, supply nut.

Most good plumbers I know would consider a plastic shank faucet with plastic supply nuts garbage. Yet we lend a blind eye to this.
 

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Hey Red, I thought you used the Wolverine Brass ballcocks with the copper float balls. Then you can justify $ 500.00 for a minor tank re-build. And if you use a brass flush valve, then you can charge $ 700.00 for a major tank re-build. :laughing:
No! That would be us :eek: and the WB ballcocks wont work in some of the one piece water closets
 

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I would tend to agree...but....

One of the plastic ones I removed had a flex supply connected I removed with my hand. :blink:

Also been to many with the supply nut broken around the circumference as I'm sure others have. And rare, but a mounting nut or two.

I don't know why we all tolerate this plastic connection. While I know there are millions of installations, seems it still should be brass shank, mounting nut, supply nut.

Most good plumbers I know would consider a plastic shank faucet with plastic supply nuts garbage. Yet we lend a blind eye to this.
I always just tighten them by hand....but then again, my hand tight ain't the same as most....:)
 
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