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Fernco

54K views 93 replies 48 participants last post by  ROCKSTARPLUMBER 
#1 ·
I heard you could not use a fernco horizontal. If this is true, then what do you do when installing another line to an existing say under a concrete slab. You have to cut the pipe to accept the new fitting, then you must cut the piece for the other end 1-1/2" shorter so you can get it into the hub. Thus when you push it on you wind up with a 1-1/2" gap. A no hub band would hold the pipes together better and prevent sag, but they are only 2" wide which means you only have 1/4" on each end of the pipe. Even if you use a slip coupling you only wind up with 3/4" over each end. What do you do?
 
#2 ·
Under our code, we can use fernco's where ever we feel, horizontal, vertical, diagonal, inverted, right side up, what ever you want to call it, we can use them there.
 
#9 ·
Even within the state of IL. But there would be times that it would be a whole lot easier if you can use above ground, let say on a remodel/repipe with CI.
I have troubles making the NO-Hubs (bands) look worth a hoot at times.

In Christ,

Song Dog
 
#13 ·
The question is how do you tie in a new line into an existing line if you have no movements in the existing line, say like a line in the ground?
 
#15 ·
Exactly Ron. Say you want to add a line to an existing line thats under a concrete slab. You can not do anything but dig up where the new pipe will join into the existing one. So you dig it up, cut the existing line, install the fitting. Now you have a space on the other side. You measure the lenght, BUT you need to cut it 1-1/2" shorter so you can slide it into the hub. That leaves a 1-1/2" gap between the pipes. So a No-Hub band is 2" wide, so that leaves 1/4" on each pipe. A slip coupling is 3" long, so 3" - 1-1/2 leaves 1-1/2 " of coupling left to hold 2 ends of the pipe. That divided by 2 means you only have 3/4" of coupling holding each end.
 
#21 ·
I never had a problem using a no-hub in situations I cannot move the pipe.

Say I am tying a 3" wye into an existing horizontal line in the trench. I will cut 12" more than the length of the wye out (less if I have to). Then I glue a 7 1/4" piece of pipe into each end of the barrel of the wye. I now have a 5 3/4" stub out each end of the wye.

Now loosen the bands, slide the metal part onto the stubs, slip the rubber part onto the end of the stub. (Do the same for each stub.)

Next fold the rubber part out onto itself and push it back from the edge of the stub slightly. You can now drop this assembly into the space you cut out. Unfold the rubber back out onto the original pipe. Wiggle it around until you have it perfectly centered and aligned. (Remember that 1/4" we cut the stubs short? That allows for the ridge inside the rubber.)

Slide the metal band back over it and tighten 'er down. I assume you use a no-hub wrench for that. I do.
 
#23 ·
Heyyyyllllloooooo JC'S, nice to see you here.

Fernco's approved here, anywhere we want. I like them and do not like them....



I like them because they seal better on aged cast iron.

I do not like them because of the all rubber support issues

I like shielded fernco's, which I just discovered recently, thanks aaron. they are about $40 and fergusons should have them. they have the sealing action of a fernco, with the support of a no hub.
 
#25 ·
Had an inspector tell us that you couldnt co-mingle piping. (cast iron in dirt/Pvc on top out) Pointed out in our code where it states "Co-mingling of material is allowed when joined by a flexiable coupling or no-hub band". Ferncos are fair game down here.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Are MJ fittings for anything but ductile and is ductile the same OD as cast/PVC? If you answer yes to both of these questions, then there's your answer. No-hub fittings with MJ connections.

I seem to recall the ductile being a bit larger OD, but I'm old now, and I have to look at my business card to remember my name most days.
 
#31 ·
I knew someone would know. I've worked on ductile a few times, we're required to put it under any paved surface for sewers by our AHJ (excluding residential until you hit the property line, then you're back to the rule above).

I don't have a lot of experience with it and couldn't recall all the junk needed to tie to cast. We can use Ferncos (I know, trade name) underground, but we have to encase them 360 degrees in concrete (they prefer 100% Portland cement, actually) to rigidize and rodent protect the joint.
 
#35 ·
We just failed an inspection because Sewer Dept. wouldn't let us use ferncos to add a wye in a 6" line at the corner of a driveway and road, 4' down. The Engineering Dept. told us to get "Beater couplings." We had never heard of them. Had to go to a utility supplier and get "Beater couplings." Not sure if that is the spelling, but the material cost was $145.00 and it did work!

However, the Ferncos work too and it wasn't fun digging and backfilling the hole twice!
 
#36 ·
We just failed an inspection because Sewer Dept. wouldn't let us use ferncos to add a wye in a 6" line at the corner of a driveway and road, 4' down. The Engineering Dept. told us to get "Beater couplings." We had never heard of them. Had to go to a utility supplier and get "Beater couplings." Not sure if that is the spelling, but the material cost was $145.00 and it did work!

However, the Ferncos work too and it wasn't fun digging and backfilling the hole twice!
What is this Beater Coupling you speak of? PVC? If so I am thinking a Knock On
 
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