I heard you could not use a fernco horizontal. If this is true, then what do you do when installing another line to an existing say under a concrete slab. You have to cut the pipe to accept the new fitting, then you must cut the piece for the other end 1-1/2" shorter so you can get it into the hub. Thus when you push it on you wind up with a 1-1/2" gap. A no hub band would hold the pipes together better and prevent sag, but they are only 2" wide which means you only have 1/4" on each end of the pipe. Even if you use a slip coupling you only wind up with 3/4" over each end. What do you do?
Under our code, we can use fernco's where ever we feel, horizontal, vertical, diagonal, inverted, right side up, what ever you want to call it, we can use them there.
Even within the state of IL. But there would be times that it would be a whole lot easier if you can use above ground, let say on a remodel/repipe with CI.
I have troubles making the NO-Hubs (bands) look worth a hoot at times.
Gotcha'. Depends what's going on but I have dug the line out say... 10' both ways. Measure, raise them both above the trench, then push them down together.
Exactly Ron. Say you want to add a line to an existing line thats under a concrete slab. You can not do anything but dig up where the new pipe will join into the existing one. So you dig it up, cut the existing line, install the fitting. Now you have a space on the other side. You measure the lenght, BUT you need to cut it 1-1/2" shorter so you can slide it into the hub. That leaves a 1-1/2" gap between the pipes. So a No-Hub band is 2" wide, so that leaves 1/4" on each pipe. A slip coupling is 3" long, so 3" - 1-1/2 leaves 1-1/2 " of coupling left to hold 2 ends of the pipe. That divided by 2 means you only have 3/4" of coupling holding each end.
I never had a problem using a no-hub in situations I cannot move the pipe.
Say I am tying a 3" wye into an existing horizontal line in the trench. I will cut 12" more than the length of the wye out (less if I have to). Then I glue a 7 1/4" piece of pipe into each end of the barrel of the wye. I now have a 5 3/4" stub out each end of the wye.
Now loosen the bands, slide the metal part onto the stubs, slip the rubber part onto the end of the stub. (Do the same for each stub.)
Next fold the rubber part out onto itself and push it back from the edge of the stub slightly. You can now drop this assembly into the space you cut out. Unfold the rubber back out onto the original pipe. Wiggle it around until you have it perfectly centered and aligned. (Remember that 1/4" we cut the stubs short? That allows for the ridge inside the rubber.)
Slide the metal band back over it and tighten 'er down. I assume you use a no-hub wrench for that. I do.
Done that too but you put it into words better. Been awhile. You can also get the ridge and extra "roll" of rubber that's in the way to push up on the pipe.
P.S.-Still don't know what a sisson joint is. Anything like a Spittoon?
Fernco's approved here, anywhere we want. I like them and do not like them....
I like them because they seal better on aged cast iron.
I do not like them because of the all rubber support issues
I like shielded fernco's, which I just discovered recently, thanks aaron. they are about $40 and fergusons should have them. they have the sealing action of a fernco, with the support of a no hub.
Had an inspector tell us that you couldnt co-mingle piping. (cast iron in dirt/Pvc on top out) Pointed out in our code where it states "Co-mingling of material is allowed when joined by a flexiable coupling or no-hub band". Ferncos are fair game down here.
Are MJ fittings for anything but ductile and is ductile the same OD as cast/PVC? If you answer yes to both of these questions, then there's your answer. No-hub fittings with MJ connections.
I seem to recall the ductile being a bit larger OD, but I'm old now, and I have to look at my business card to remember my name most days.
MJ fittings are good for ductile and C900. Ductile is a heavier cast and its a thicker OD as you said. You can join Sch. 40 PVC to ductile with MJ sleeves but you have to have a transitonal gland and cam locks rated for Sch. 40 not C900
I knew someone would know. I've worked on ductile a few times, we're required to put it under any paved surface for sewers by our AHJ (excluding residential until you hit the property line, then you're back to the rule above).
I don't have a lot of experience with it and couldn't recall all the junk needed to tie to cast. We can use Ferncos (I know, trade name) underground, but we have to encase them 360 degrees in concrete (they prefer 100% Portland cement, actually) to rigidize and rodent protect the joint.
if you use two ferncos you won't get that gap, glue a piece of pipe in both ends of the fitting then cut your pipe to that length slide on two ferncos and then slide them back, no gap
U CANT USE THEM AT ALL!!!??? how do you join diff kinds of piping? like cast and pvc? or terra cotta and pvc? lol. that sounds like hell to me! haha. specially with spot repairs in sewers!
To join 2 different types of pipe such as clay and abs/pvs you would use a Calder coupling and a bald bushing (looks like a big hockey puck with a hole in the middle).
We just failed an inspection because Sewer Dept. wouldn't let us use ferncos to add a wye in a 6" line at the corner of a driveway and road, 4' down. The Engineering Dept. told us to get "Beater couplings." We had never heard of them. Had to go to a utility supplier and get "Beater couplings." Not sure if that is the spelling, but the material cost was $145.00 and it did work!
However, the Ferncos work too and it wasn't fun digging and backfilling the hole twice!
We just failed an inspection because Sewer Dept. wouldn't let us use ferncos to add a wye in a 6" line at the corner of a driveway and road, 4' down. The Engineering Dept. told us to get "Beater couplings." We had never heard of them. Had to go to a utility supplier and get "Beater couplings." Not sure if that is the spelling, but the material cost was $145.00 and it did work!
However, the Ferncos work too and it wasn't fun digging and backfilling the hole twice!
What is this Beater Coupling you speak of? PVC? If so I am thinking a Knock On
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