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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a good trick to remove an old stuck bonnet on an older-style Delta pressure-balanced tub/shower valve? I've twisted as hard as I dare (both ways - trying to break it loose), with back-wrench. I've WD-40'd, I've tapped it, talked nice to it, cursed it. I finally gave up on that.

If I don't hear any ideas here I'm going to carefully cut it with the 4-1/2" grinder and snap it, then replace it (with lube this time).
 

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Senior Moment
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Use a pipe wrench, open it as much as possible so it barely bites closer to the outer edge of the bonnett. This way it wont pinch the bonnett causing it to be out of round. Tap it a little and go EASY. If the whole valve starts to twist it's dremel time. Channel locks will pinch the bonnett a little, so they rarely work on the stubborn ones.
 

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I use heat and PB spray.


Get the nut nice and warm (300 ish). This boils all of the trapped water out of the threads. Spray PB into the thread area. Tap the thread area vigorously. Re-spray and re-tap. Let set for 5-10 minutes. Heat again and attempt to unscrew while hot.

If that does not work, the nut will have to be replaced: Cut a line into the nut but don't cut into the male threads. Do the same thing again 180 degrees around the nut. Insert a straight slot screw driver into one of the cuts and twist the screw driver as if trying to turn a screw. The nut should split right off of the valve. Obviously, you will need to have a spare nut to replace the one you just cut off.

I rarly have to cut the nut off though.
 

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They're rarely so tight that they need to be cut off and we have hard water here. You have to be real careful not to pinch the bonnet, like PP said. Give it a few sharp taps with a wrench or hammer and if you have a strap wrench give that a try. It won't pinch it but you can also grab it if you get on the very end of it, away from the threads.











Paul
 

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If your hands are strong enough, on the 600 series or the newer monitor series you can oval the nut. Catch it on the 12 and 6, then the 3 and 9, instantly it will break the calcium bond.

Slightly turn it like you are tightening, then turn counter-clockwise and it'll make someone who worked on it for 2 hours come off in 10 seconds.


My days are numbered doing that task above. Heat is the good suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, two weeks later I finally had time to get back and attack that stupid valve. I guess the WD-40 did its job during the two weeks and the ring just spun off with a one-hand twist. Excellent! I was prepared for bad ugliness.
 

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I got one like that just yesterday. Tennant was complaining that no cold water would come from faucet, only hot. The temp limiter dial was out of ajustment which was easy fix but the cartridge was 180 degrees out( h & c reversed ) so I attempted to remove the outer nut ( pressure balanced ) but it would not budge so the tennant told me that if they get hot and cold then reversed is no biggie so I aborted the attempt to remove the stem.
I prolly should just sell the land lady a new valve install, especially since I have to re-schedule to go back and install an outside sillcock at the kitchen sink cause the idiot that did origional plumbing on the building stubbed out the only sillcock on the building on the hot water side. :eek: A Real genius he was. :bangin:
 

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I have agree with using heat. I've never had to use heat until last week I had one that wouldn't budge. Usually I can get them if I grip it just right on the outer edge with a pipe wrench and a tap. Not this one! I remembered you guys suggesting heat. So I got my torch, went around it a few times (started cooking the cartridge a little:laughing:), let it cool just a little, and I'll be damned, I spun it off with my hand like it was new!:thumbup:
 

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I have agree with using heat. I've never had to use heat until last week I had one that wouldn't budge. Usually I can get them if I grip it just right on the outer edge with a pipe wrench and a tap. Not this one! I remembered you guys suggesting heat. So I got my torch, went around it a few times (started cooking the cartridge a little:laughing:), let it cool just a little, and I'll be damned, I spun it off with my hand like it was new!:thumbup:
Funny how that works...:laughing:
 

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Heat is often successful. There are times when it has been necessary to carefullly slice across the bonnet with a small fine tooth hacksaw blade.

The new R10000 rough valve uses a special teflon impregnated bonnet nut. Supposed to never stick!
 

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I try the channel locks fist very carefully. Then it's the small hack saw with a new blade and cut it off. I think this method takes around 10 or 15 minutes maybe longer so I pretty much have my mind made up it's going to be cut off. Then it's a huge bonus when it turns off easily. Someday I'll knick the valve bad enough with the saw and have to replace the whole thing anyway. Oh man will that pizz me off
 
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