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Master Plumber
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Hose bibb

Icemaker

Water heater

Floor drain

Washer box

Sewage ejector

I don't like the per fixture concept but wonder how you all do it.
 

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Been a while, but when I was plumbing houses, I used the same per fixture price for a water heater as for a bathtub or a toilet.

"Fixture" meant any fixture that had a water line and a drain. There was a separate charge for hydrants and floor drains and icemakers and the like. Obviously, running a water line to an icemaker box isn't the same as putting in a vent and drain.

And fixtures had a base price. For example, the price for a bathtub meant 'steel tub.' Basins were steel, oval, self-rim. If a customer wanted a china or C.I. basin, there was a set amount to add to the price. If they wanted a fiberglas tub enclosure instead of a steel tub, you add the correct amount. If they wanted color, you added the amount. Disposer? Add.

My base price included a single handled Moen tub valve and kitchen, basins were two-handle.

As for the actual price per fixture, I can't help you there. I haven't plumbed houses in about nine or ten years since I've gone completely service.
 

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I use a bare min price for a 3 bath to start with, then add for more extravagances like spa tubs, custom showers, pedastils...etc.
Also if it's on a second floor or on the other side of the house from the stack the price will go up as well.
 

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J. McCabe Plumbing Inc.
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Residential-1700 per unit (No fixtures included)

Commercial-Between 3000 & 3500 (includes Fixtures), this is a budget cost only.

Obviously costs differ based on design specs.

We do a lot of design build commercial TI and commercial kitchens and a fair pre-bid budget cost for this area is between 3000-3500
 

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I should also add that basic prices were for a bath up and a bath down, or two baths back to back and a bath down. If a bath (or baths) were separated across the house, I added per foot for waterline and drains for the distance between baths. No sense taking it in the shorts for poor design or luxury.
 

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What is an actual price per fixture. I recently charged 750.00 per fixture i.e. toilet,water heater, kit sink,lavs, bathtubs,etc. And the contractor is saying that its too high. He won't pay no more than 660.00 a fixture.
 

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I get $550 a fixture (pex). + fixtures & faucets. Includes 2 hose bibbs, & water & drain stubbed out 3'.
 

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Iv tried it a few times tubs,showers and hotwatwr tanks 750 other fixtures 500 and hosebibs 250 it was pretty close. That's stickframe and they supply tubs faucets ect.
 

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I have a question. When you say for example 500.00 per fixture. That's everything which includes rouph-in, top-out and set fixtures right? Does that include fixtures or is only piping and the gc or owner provides fixtures? Does that include running the sewer line and connecting to sewer main, water service etc. How do you charge differently for upstairs plumbing?
 

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I did not charge per fixture per say; I charged per trap, rough in water 1 trap finish water =1 trap ,inside gas 1 trap ,outside gas 1 trap. Each trap equals 4 hours. This equals the labor and time.

The ABS drains and vents were figured out by bathroom group of 3 fixtures each.
3 and 1/2 bath home with,kitchen, laundry and tray =12.67 times my dollar value on the plastic and fixture price. In the 80s it was 500 bucks.
 

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fixture

What I've always been taught residential is R.I is $500 (+) a fixture and after all that .. if you want finish done its T.M. No fixture supplied. (Only T&S valve)

So 3 pc bathroom r.i in basement = 1500 + HST

again sometimes u have to feel out the customer first..
 

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Things are pretty cheap around here. :furious:
I tend to stay out of residential new construction lately because their is not a whole lot of money in it. :no:

The last job I bid was at 500 a fixture included builders grade faucets and sinks, steel tub, shower pan for tile shower and 40 g std water heater. I also price the sump pump and gas line as a fixture.

That was the cheapest I would go and some guys were complaining about the price still. Like I said not enough money in it around here.
 

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A few years back, you could charge $ 1200.00 per fixture. That included 'contractor grade' fixtures, ie: Moen faucets, 5' steel tub, Moen tub valve, and the like.

So a bathroom addition would be priced at $ 3600.00 which included all the rough-in and then setting fixtures. Permits, water lines, sewer lines, etc. were all additional. (A typical bathroom has a tub, toilet and lav. That =three fixtures @ $ 1200.00 each)



The last re-model I did, I charged about $ 880.00 per fixture with the customer supplying his own fixtures.
 

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I reevaluate my price doing this. I use 600/fixture that has a water and sewer connection. Hwt and fd in mech count as one fixture (40gal electric)
Does not include tubs, faucets, fixtures etc.
$1000 each for that
I do every single house on spreadsheet by the fitting. Takes about 15 mins.
Whichever is higher is stuck with
 

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Things are pretty cheap around here. :furious:
I tend to stay out of residential new construction lately because their is not a whole lot of money in it. :no:

The last job I bid was at 500 a fixture included builders grade faucets and sinks, steel tub, shower pan for tile shower and 40 g std water heater. I also price the sump pump and gas line as a fixture.

That was the cheapest I would go and some guys were complaining about the price still. Like I said not enough money in it around here.
We got unlicensed coming out of the floor drain and not enough inspectors to catch them, so it's dirt cheap here.

I'll pick up work correcting the mistakes.

Every time I lower the price, I get robbed some other way. Even in a small county, there are lots of crooks. I'm learning to run like hell when they question the price, but it hurts to lose work that way.
 

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I never liked the "Per fixture charge". It may work for some, but not here. So many other and better ways to price out.
For example? Just wondering I price by the fixt and have been thinking that there has to be a better way, but its the way I was taught. But feel I i am probably leaving $$ on the table.
 

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The last job I bid was at 500 a fixture included builders grade faucets and sinks, steel tub, shower pan for tile shower and 40 g std water heater. I also price the sump pump and gas line as a fixture.
I just don't understand how this can be done. We will have $500.00 or more in material on a replacement water heater that is brought upto code.
 

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For example? Just wondering I price by the fixt and have been thinking that there has to be a better way, but its the way I was taught. But feel I i am probably leaving $$ on the table.
A flat rate based off hourly works great for us. NEVER sacrifice what you would normally make hourly! Again, just base your flat quote off of the hourly!! Least that is my rule. The hourly I have in place is based off of all my overhead, paying my staff and as you know, there has to be meat left on the bone for me. I never sacrifice my rates for consistency either. We add the numbers up and whatever they are, they are.

Ie; if i figure a rough-in taking a week for my journeyman and one apprentice to finish, then i already know the labor is $6,000 ( $150/Hr rate for those 2). Then I figure the material & permits. I am also going to mark up the material 20%.

If you are doing work for a GC or builder, then I am gonna bow out on that topic and let you dig up older threads on that topic too.

Keep in mind though, what works for me, may not work for YOU! But in my opinion,there are better ways to bid than "per fixture" - Again, that is just my opinion.

Find out what works for you, but if you feel you are losing money or could be making more, then you should try different pricing methods.

Good Luck. :)
 
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