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every tool is a hammer
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Strange as it may seem, Illinois code doesn't mandate this. Health Dep't inspectors can make you do it, but plumbing inspectors can't/don't. I do it on new industrial/commercial construction trims, if the customer wants it. But have never done it on residential. What about the rest of you?
 

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Strange as it may seem, Illinois code doesn't mandate this. Health Dep't inspectors can make you do it, but plumbing inspectors can't/don't. I do it on new industrial/commercial construction trims, if the customer wants it. But have never done it on residential. What about the rest of you?
Health code supersedes plumbing code.

I never caulk toilets to the floor, I would rather people know they are leaking before it is too late and structural damage has already been done.
 

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Code says we are to caulk them to floor, we will leave the back edge uncaulked so if the wax does fail it will be seen there.
 

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I believe the UPC requires it. I always caulk them to the floor but leave a small gap (3 to 4") in the caulk in the back so a leak can show up before it ruins a lot more.
 

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Code says we are to caulk them to floor, we will leave the back edge uncaulked so if the wax does fail it will be seen there.
I do the same thing Ron. Leave the back open. Lotsa folks "miss". Makes a stink under the pooper. I don't however, use caulking. I use anchoring cement. Mix some up and push it in under the bowl. Let it set a little and hit it with a sponge. It makes toilets VERY solid. If you need to take the bowl up. Undo the johnny bolts and pop it with your hands firmly and it comes right loose. Very easy to get the old cleaned off as it doesn't really super stick too the china or the floor.
 

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The reason you caulk to the floor is to keep out water from getting under it, kids are notorious for this, and there is no way the remove the water that gets under it, once there, it's not that sanitary to leave toilets un-caulked, IMO
 

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What if the floor is slightly pitched to the front of the toilet?
The floor is always level, right:rolleyes:
I'll make sure to have the concrete finisher slope it to the back:no::)

Here's my stance. If I set a toilet with a wax ring and anchor cement it down. There is no way that seal will fail. Unless somebody goes kamikaze with the plunger. That toilet won't even think about winking. No movement = good seal.

It's kind of a mute point on the wax. I've been using ultra-seals for about 10 years. No leaky.
 

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Caulking is the sanitary seal which prevents water from getting under the water closet. If you leave the back uncaulked what are you going to do with the water which gets under there?

Mark
 

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Unless kids splash a few gallons of water on the floor and water so manages to get to the backside of the toilet, no water will get there, the chances are slim to none, now with a non caulked toilet sitting on the floor, there is high probability water will get there, via the sides or the front. Just the way I see it, I could be wrong.
 

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Unless kids splash a few gallons of water on the floor and water so manages to get to the backside of the toilet, no water will get there, the chances are slim to none, now with a non caulked toilet sitting on the floor, there is high probability water will get there, via the sides or the front. Just the way I see it, I could be wrong.
I'm not too sure about that. I use to have better than 80% odds, leaks from upstairs to downstairs was from water splashed from a tub/shower.

Mark
 

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We don't caulk.
I've heard arguments to both sides, our thinking is when the seal goes the leak stays hidden under the toilet until it appears on the ceiling below.

There are merits to both arguments, code makes the decision.

As for water seeping under an uncaulked toilet creating unsanitary stagnant moisture...it dries.
To the contrary
If a seal goes, the stagnant moisture in the case of a caulked toilet is worse.

From a mechanical perspective, it really sucks replacing a different shaped toilet when the old larger profile was caulked.

Not alotta fun scraping it off the tile & grout.
 
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I never do it. I would like for the water to escape around the toilet and alert the HO that there is a problem. As a carpenter too I can say its a pain when I have to replace a bathroom floor.
 

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I'm not too sure about that. I use to have better than 80% odds, leaks from upstairs to downstairs was from water splashed from a tub/shower.

Mark

Most of the leaks I find from up to down are from trim not caulked to surround, tub shoe drain lost it's seal, or overflow gasket shot, and sometimes shower arm loose in wall. Then there is tile walls no longer sealed and or surround not sealed at the seams.
 

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ILplumber,
are these the same as the Fernco rubber seals? I use them whenever possible. Especially on wall hung toilets.

Jeff
They used to be made by Predco. I think fernco might have bought em out. They seal the bottom of the toilet to the inside of the the pipe. Takes the flange completely out of the equation.
 

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LeMarr Plumbing, Inc.
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They used to be made by Predco. I think fernco might have bought em out. They seal the bottom of the toilet to the inside of the the pipe. Takes the flange completely out of the equation.
I have never used one like that style, only wax. Maybe I am brain farting and can't answer it myself, but what happens when the floor is really out of kilter. EX: sloped floor to a CI flange.
Do they seal good to CI or lead? The flange you use is interesting me. Always up for something new to try:)

In Christ,

Song Dog
 
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