Plumbing Zone - Professional Plumbers Forum banner
21 - 40 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
The other problem with the drain- the sink is so thick that I don’t think a mushroom drain would be long enough. I could be wrong on that, tho.
 

·
philosopher and statesmen
Joined
·
7,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
If the homeowner is wanting a usable lavatory then tear out sink and all of it and replace with stiff from the 21st century,if they want to look at it then leave it like you found it
You quoted a generous price IMO

You guys are getting way ahead of yourselves....
he is planning on tearing out the lavatories and installing modern pedistels himself... wise move

all he wants from me is those crane toilets taken out and tank type toilets installed in place of them...
which means cranking out that nipple from the wall and reducing it to 1/2

Also, he wants those tub faucets repaired if possible ... Now, I can dabble with them, throw in a new washer
but I dont intend getting hung up on 3 of those pigs for days and days.... I have taken out seats before
and sanded them down to a fine flat surface again when you could not match them up .... I have had to
do this many times over the years....

I have not bid the job as of yet.....

Toilets could be trouble getting out those old nipples without tearing up the wall
installing the toilet itself is no big deal.....I think, hope.....

New delta tub faucets would be a bear to do with changing out the tub drain and drum trap
probably would have to cut open the ceiling on the first floor and make a hell of a mess doing it .....

2500 seemed reasonable for the tub faucet and drain but you say that was cheap
but you tell me what you would tackle that beast for Sparkey......

I will gladly listen to your advice..... run away
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
You guys are getting way ahead of yourselves....
he is planning on tearing out the lavatories and installing modern pedistels himself... wise move

all he wants from me is those crane toilets taken out and tank type toilets installed in place of them...
which means cranking out that nipple from the wall and reducing it to 1/2

Also, he wants those tub faucets repaired if possible ... Now, I can dabble with them, throw in a new washer
but I dont intend getting hung up on 3 of those pigs for days and days.... I have taken out seats before
and sanded them down to a fine flat surface again when you could not match them up .... I have had to
do this many times over the years....

I have not bid the job as of yet.....

Toilets could be trouble getting out those old nipples without tearing up the wall
installing the toilet itself is no big deal.....I think, hope.....

New delta tub faucets would be a bear to do with changing out the tub drain and drum trap
probably would have to cut open the ceiling on the first floor and make a hell of a mess doing it .....

2500 seemed reasonable for the tub faucet and drain but you say that was cheap
but you tell me what you would tackle that beast for Sparkey......

I will gladly listen to your advice..... run away
My mistake,I thought the toilet work was included in that estimate,you are good with the 2500.00 for the tub faucets only IMO
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,984 Posts
You guys are getting way ahead of yourselves....
he is planning on tearing out the lavatories and installing modern pedistels himself... wise move

all he wants from me is those crane toilets taken out and tank type toilets installed in place of them...
which means cranking out that nipple from the wall and reducing it to 1/2

Also, he wants those tub faucets repaired if possible ... Now, I can dabble with them, throw in a new washer
but I dont intend getting hung up on 3 of those pigs for days and days.... I have taken out seats before
and sanded them down to a fine flat surface again when you could not match them up .... I have had to
do this many times over the years....

I have not bid the job as of yet.....

Toilets could be trouble getting out those old nipples without tearing up the wall
installing the toilet itself is no big deal.....I think, hope.....

New delta tub faucets would be a bear to do with changing out the tub drain and drum trap
probably would have to cut open the ceiling on the first floor and make a hell of a mess doing it .....

2500 seemed reasonable for the tub faucet and drain but you say that was cheap
but you tell me what you would tackle that beast for Sparkey......

I will gladly listen to your advice..... run away
I have done that with seats lots of times, I would take them out to the sidewalk to grind them flat
 

·
philosopher and statesmen
Joined
·
7,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
He be lucky to get seats out that are that old,if they have dried out from water being turned off you can forget about it

I wont touch them if they look good.... normally a good piece of sandpaper and running the seats over them on a flat surface will
work pretty well to take out small nicks... a file is needed if its a huge spot that needs to be shaved down..

So what do you think my chances are in getting those 1 inch nipples out of the wall and reducing them to 1/2
on those antique toilets????
:rolleyes::rolleyes::ROFLMAO:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,616 Posts
I replaced five of those same era toilets in a mansion down SE MI years ago. I can’t remember what we did though. I think we bushed them down and ran copper down outside the wall, not sure. Don’t remember anything going wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
I wont touch them if they look good.... normally a good piece of sandpaper and running the seats over them on a flat surface will
work pretty well to take out small nicks... a file is needed if its a huge spot that needs to be shaved down..

So what do you think my chances are in getting those 1 inch nipples out of the wall and reducing them to 1/2
on those antique toilets????
:rolleyes::rolleyes::ROFLMAO:
If the water has been turned on the whole time where threads are submerged in water I’d say pretty good chance they will come right out,but if they have dried out and corroded up they will break off most likely
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,714 Posts
He be lucky to get seats out that are that old,if they have dried out from water being turned off you can forget about it
What? Are you talking about the rubber washers?


@Master Mark @MACPLUMB777

A note of caution, if you take the seats out and simply grind them flat than make sure to soften the edges so they don't just cut up the new washer. You'd likely be better off trying to resurface them with a tool in place instead of removing them if you don't have replacements. I like to use a piece of grit cloth stretched on a flat surface when I am forced to do this.
 

·
Registered
Plumber
Joined
·
38 Posts
I wont touch them if they look good.... normally a good piece of sandpaper and running the seats over them on a flat surface will
work pretty well to take out small nicks... a file is needed if its a huge spot that needs to be shaved down..

So what do you think my chances are in getting those 1 inch nipples out of the wall and reducing them to 1/2
on those antique toilets????
:rolleyes::rolleyes::ROFLMAO:
I used to do a lot of work in an old apartment building from the 1800s that had those Sloan valves, I think we called them "naval" Sloan valves. The guy was a huge cheapskate and didn't give a crap what stuff looked like, so lots of times we would just spin the Sloan stop off, spin on a nipple with a reducing coupling, and hook to a tank style toilet. Galvanized like that can be fishy, it might come right out with a pipe wrench or it might start crumbling. I would be liberal with PB Blaster on the stuff, and if you have access to the back side of the wall, get another guy with a backer wrench you might have some luck spinning those old nipples out. I would just be really careful to let the homeowner know that he could be opening a massive can of worms. Same apartment building I was telling you about, landlord had me in there rebuilding a bunch of old faucets, new seats, packings, etc. He wanted any stop valves replaced that needed it as well. So I'm on the third floor, I go to turn off the cold stop and the packing starts leaking. I was really nervous about it because it looked like it was in terrible condition, so I put a backer on the stop and when I went to tighten the packing, I accidentally ripped the whole valve off the nipple, the old galvanized nipple was rotted out. So water starts blasting all over, I run down, shut water off, had to break out a little block wall, was able to spin the old rotted nipple out of the 90 in the wall, replaced, new stop, etc. I turn water back on, no leaks. I think to myself "better be careful on the hot side". I went to turn the hot side stop valve off, and just the force of my bare hands turning the valve handle ripped the valve right off the rotted out nipple, water gushing all over, repeated the whole thing over again. Should have just replaced them both at the same time, I know. Anyways, long story short, never trust 100 year old galvanized.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,714 Posts
.................So what do you think my chances are in getting those 1 inch nipples out of the wall .........
The galv might break off in the wall, but with some heat you might have good luck. Worst case you need a big square extractor. Are you sure it's galv? Looks like chrome in the pic.

If you really don't want to break it off in the wall you could just reuse the nipple on the sloan valve and keep the sloan stop. Put a reducing 90 on the sloan nipple. The nipple is part #17 in the exploded view below. Put the sloan valve body in a chain vise and apply some heat, they use adhesive pipe dope to put those nipples in. You can also buy those nipples separate.




130402
 

·
philosopher and statesmen
Joined
·
7,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
The galv might break off in the wall, but with some heat you might have good luck. Worst case you need a big square extractor. Are you sure it's galv? Looks like chrome in the pic.

If you really don't want to break it off in the wall you could just reuse the nipple on the sloan valve and keep the sloan stop. Put a reducing 90 on the sloan nipple. The nipple is part #17 in the exploded view below. Put the sloan valve body in a chain vise and apply some heat, they use adhesive pipe dope to put those nipples in. You can also buy those nipples separate.




View attachment 130402
Hell, I dont know what is coming out of that toilet wall...
it might be a chrome sleeve on old galvanized for all I know.....
Maybe if I get lucky I will heat that baby up red hot and burn the house down.... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

We have been blessed with a ton of work for us to do for the last 18 months
.... this week so far I its been fairly medium to slow which feels goooood.... for a change..
Tonight I threw 2 gas leak calls to another company that likes to do them., and today I
threw a job 35 miles away to another company to go re-set a toilet......
we have plenty of things to keep up busy enough without burning up a tank of gas
and half the day driving across town for a small job....

I am finding that when you are very busy with the big
dollar calls , you can actually lose money when you go out and waste half of the day
dicking around on a toilet or cleaning out a kitchen drain. Of course If I dont have
anything else to do today then I will go do it....

I am really not all that enthused about diving into this mess head first , when I am already
booked up with easy-peasy things to do..........

Now if I was totally dead in the water I might consider it
but fools rush in where wise men fear to tread...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
What? Are you talking about the rubber washers?

No,I'm talking about the brass seats the washer goes against
@Master Mark @MACPLUMB777

A note of caution, if you take the seats out and simply grind them flat than make sure to soften the edges so they don't just cut up the new washer. You'd likely be better off trying to resurface them with a tool in place instead of removing them if you don't have replacements. I like to use a piece of grit cloth stretched on a flat surface when I am forced to do this.
no I'm talking about the brass seats the washer goes up against
 

·
philosopher and statesmen
Joined
·
7,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well, I walked away from this mess..... It turns out he actually is ordering some antique crane toilets
that match this design and he plans on installing them in place of the cracked bowls ....
In his own words.. this is gonna go smooth---
finding the correct spud and possibly a new 1 1/2 elbow ought to be fun

I wished him
luck cause he is gonna need it....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,714 Posts
................
I wished him
luck cause he is gonna need it....
Looks like just a standard 1-1/2" spud to me. If he gets new bowls meant for wall hung tanks he'll just need 1-1/2"X2" spuds.

I do this kind of stuff everyday, doesn't take luck, just the right tools, parts, and know how. Your father would have fixed this stuff everyday when he started plumbing.
 

·
philosopher and statesmen
Joined
·
7,840 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Looks like just a standard 1-1/2" spud to me. If he gets new bowls meant for wall hung tanks he'll just need 1-1/2"X2" spuds.

I do this kind of stuff everyday, doesn't take luck, just the right tools, parts, and know how. Your father would have fixed this stuff everyday when he started plumbing.

Originally he wanted new tank type toilets,,,, now they want it to stay the same

Yes its a standard spud... dont really know if you can use the elbow bend over again
I suppose they are available if you hunt long and hard for them..
and he is getting some used crane stuff off of E-bay or some other outlet...(sweet).
and I dont really have the time or patience to fool with it right now..

. I am busy with your common run of the mill things right now

If I was extremely slow, well maybe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,714 Posts
................ dont really know if you can use the elbow bend over again
I suppose they are available if you hunt long and hard for them..
.............
You mean the discharge from the sloan valve? If you don't care about a vacuum breaker you can use a 1-1/2" chrome flanged tailpiece meant for a kitchen sink. If you want a vacuum breaker than use a sloan VB, cut it short and use a 1-1/2" chrome slipjoint 90. If you can't get the Sloan VB to fit and you still want backflow prevention you could just put a double check on the 1" supply to the sloan valve.

Or you just do it the right way and use two street 90s on the supply so you can use a modern sloan valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
You mean the discharge from the sloan valve? If you don't care about a vacuum breaker you can use a 1-1/2" chrome flanged tailpiece meant for a kitchen sink. If you want a vacuum breaker than use a sloan VB, cut it short and use a 1-1/2" chrome slipjoint 90. If you can't get the Sloan VB to fit and you still want backflow prevention you could just put a double check on the 1" supply to the sloan valve.

Or you just do it the right way and use two street 90s on the supply so you can use a modern sloan valve.
I have used the flanged tailpiece trick before
 
21 - 40 of 53 Posts
Top