Yes we used purple primer.Excellent work, if thats purple primer, it's pretty dam hard to tell...can't recall if you guys use it or not.
Easy to see meticulous attention was put into pitch and plumb.
The only thing I could possibly pick at are the vertical-to-horizontal connections on the vents, here we're "s'posed" to use combo's.
Not many inspectors will call us on it though.
I did, trying to pre-fab the loops without a vice is a PITA, and it's fire resistant lumber anyway.Who got torch happy and burnt the wood? Other then that Nice.....
That's not an isolation valve, it's a boiler drain for flushing the heater, there's one on the cold side too. The ball valves are the isolation valves.You know you were setting yourself up to get knit picked right?
The only serious criticism I would have is the apparant isolation valve located in between the tankless discharge and the pressure relief valve :no:. I realize that it's an on demand heater and if that valve is closed there will be no demand acknowledged by the unit but still. Also, not a criticism just a question, why not simply use the drain kits? I get them for around $75 and seem to be well worth it to me. I sell them as an optional upgrade but they always add them.
Very clean almost like someone knew it would be photographed :laughing:.
Excellent work!
If it is strictly a vent you can use a vent tee.So your code does allow a santee on it's back to vent a fixture.
My bad! Couldn't tell from the angle, it just looked like an in line gate valve. I wondered what you could possibly need with 2 isolation valves but thought maybe it was a Chicago thing.That's not an isolation valve, it's a boiler drain for flushing the heater, there's one on the cold side too. The ball valves are the isolation valves.
Takagi doesn't offer it, and I always install tankless heaters like that.My bad! Couldn't tell from the angle, it just looked like an in line gate valve. I wondered what you could possibly need with 2 isolation valves but thought maybe it was a Chicago thing.
Still though I'm wondering why not the drain kit? Seems like about $40 in valves and at least $35 in labor. I'm not one of those hurry up and get it done plumbers but all things being equal why not have the same costs but pick up some extra time?
Is there something bad about the drain kit that you know that I should know?
Last week was the first time I have been back at that house in over a year. It's owned by an architect that is restoring most of it to the way it was when it was built a hundred some years ago, but with updated mechanicals, and an addition. He's in no real hurry to finish it, so all the trades working there mainly use it as fill in when there isn't much going on.Wow you could possibly quite working now off that job :laughing:
For the record looks good!
But for 3 years I thought it coould be better.:blink: J/K
I hope this doesn't mean things are slow for you guys....Last week was the first time I have been back at that house in over a year. It's owned by an architect that is restoring most of it to the way it was when it was built a hundred some years ago, but with updated mechanicals, and an addition. He's in no real hurry to finish it, so all the trades working there mainly use it as fill in when there isn't much going on.
They have been for a couple months, we've had eight jobs that got outright canceled.I hope this doesn't mean things are slow for you guys....
A 3 year project needs only 1 tankless :confused1:.Takagi doesn't offer it, and I always install tankless heaters like that.
That being said, this particular job is being done T&M, we started it three years ago.