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Old 09-19-2019, 12:35 AM   #11
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Would you drain all the water lines with compressed air and call it good enough or would you drain the lines and circulate non toxic anti freeze in the hot and cold lines?



We just blow the whole system out with our trailer compressor. It's something ridiculous like 75gpm @ 150psi. It has a v6 kubota engine hooked to something like a 4 cylinder compressor.


You really don't need that much air because you aren't doing small hotels or GIANT houses. For best results you would still probably want an engine driven unit though or at least a 220v one you could plug into the dryer receptacle. Or a big storage tank and do it in bursts. You could use the water heater as your air storage tank. Pump the heater up with both valves closed, open one faucet, then open the valve on the heater. Repeat until you have done them all.



I guess on the small scale blowing everything out real well with a normal compressor and then just cycling some anti freeze through would be best. You don't need to leave it filled with antifreeze, you just need to dilute any residual water with enough antifreeze so it won't freeze. This could drastically lower the amount you end up using.








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Old 09-19-2019, 11:52 AM   #12
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Tango,
I recommend AGAINST putting even Non-Toxic Antifreeze into the Domestic piping. Non-Toxic does not mean safe for human consumption.

Drain everything then hook up your compressor to the Drain Valve of the Water Heater, pump up the system to 30 PSI and then open all the faucets starting from smallest to largest and keep pumping up the pressure to 30 PSI as you go. Lav's first, Kitchen faucet second and so on. Don't forget any ice maker lines. Antofreeze all traps and make sure to drain the Toilet tanks. Leave all the faucets open if you can.

We have a property at 9500' elevation up in the mountains (sub-zero temps every winter). As long as none of the pipes are full of water nothing freezes. Oh, the pipes are CPVC and they break much easier than Copper.
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:11 PM   #13
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Odds are the electricity goes out and it freezes faucets that are already empty is very slim.

Yeah I was looking for compressor on sale this morning. I'll have to check my garage to see if I still have my small one.

Good point on the water heater, I can fill it up with air.

There was a townhouse that was on the market that flooded real bad, lost gas service due to nonpayment of the bill, so the heat went down, was a sad situation..
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Old 09-19-2019, 10:18 PM   #14
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I drain it, 30 psi air, then leave the drain valves open and pull the cartridges out of the taps. Then antifreeze the drains.
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Old 09-29-2019, 10:18 PM   #15
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I'm wondering if I should insert a tube in the main water line as far as I can go towards the curb stop and vacuum it?

Unless its a ball valve it's going to be impossible to siphon out so that answers my question halfway.

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Old 09-29-2019, 10:26 PM   #16
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I'm wondering if I should insert a tube in the main water line as far as I can go towards the curb stop and vacuum it?
Curb-stops have a built in drain. A vacuum could pull more water in from the ground. See if air will push it back, if not make a note on your invoice and have someone sign off.
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Old 09-29-2019, 10:37 PM   #17
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Curb-stops have a built in drain. A vacuum could pull more water in from the ground. See if air will push it back, if not make a note on your invoice and have someone sign off.
How does that built in drain work or what does it look like? I'm having the city shut the curb when I'm there.

I vacuumed mains when I'm swapping a main valve but it only sucks out a couple of inches with the vac directly on the pipe.

Good Idea, I'll have her sign I can't really do anything from the house to the curb.
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Old 09-30-2019, 03:28 PM   #18
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The old name for curb stops was stop and drain. The valve has a 1/4" port that opens on the house side when the valve is closed. That is supposed to let the water drain back into the gravel, no one ever dumps around the valve. I can remember there used to be a something in the code requiring sanitizing the line after it's use.
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Old 09-30-2019, 04:24 PM   #19
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The old name for curb stops was stop and drain. The valve has a 1/4" port that opens on the house side when the valve is closed. That is supposed to let the water drain back into the gravel, no one ever dumps around the valve. I can remember there used to be a something in the code requiring sanitizing the line after it's use.
I remember the city saying on the last job there was a drain. Evidently the main was shutting off and the drain didn't work, water kept coming up slowly.
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Old 09-30-2019, 10:12 PM   #20
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Curb-stops have a built in drain. A vacuum could pull more water in from the ground. See if air will push it back, if not make a note on your invoice and have someone sign off.



Not all curb valves have the built in drain. They stopped letting us use those kind a couple years ago because they could allow in dirt or other stuff. I think that is overblown but that's what it is.










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