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Old 11-07-2019, 10:03 AM   #1
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Default Toilet shims which ones do you prefer?

I've used soft rubber shims for a while and they work well and easy to cut. Anyone use the hard plastic ones, what are they like in comparison?

I'm about to order a 200$ jar as they aren't sold locally except those who come in a 4 pack at 155% the price of bulk pack.
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Old 11-07-2019, 10:53 AM   #2
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I don't like those hard plastic ones. They are much thicker at their thinnest point and more difficult to cut cleanly.
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Old 11-07-2019, 11:04 AM   #3
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I always use the white rubber ones.
They’re easy to cut and cheap.

I always laugh when I remove a toilet, and see a stack of coins used to level/shim..
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Old 11-07-2019, 01:36 PM   #4
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I only use the hard translucent ones. Have gone through hundreds. we buy the big jars.
we use a 1-1/2” wide wood chisel to cut them off after tightening the WC down.
The broken piece flys off and we’ve never had an issue with floor damage...just smack your hammer on the chisel deftly.
Then clear silicone caulk.



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Old 11-07-2019, 06:04 PM   #5
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I use both, but I prefer the soft rubber ones. Like all have said, easy to cut.


While we are on this topic, do you guys grout or caulk W/C's? I used to be lazy and caulked. But one time some heavy customers sat on a W/C that I had set. I caulked it and the bowl shifted a bit under the strain and some of the caulk oozed out of the side.


It was a rare callback. So from then on it is only grout. I know the NY city plumbers lather plaster of paris all around the closet flange and then set the bowl. Pulling those up off of the floor sometimes breaks the china bowl.
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:40 PM   #6
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I use both, but I prefer the soft rubber ones. Like all have said, easy to cut.


While we are on this topic, do you guys grout or caulk W/C's? I used to be lazy and caulked. But one time some heavy customers sat on a W/C that I had set. I caulked it and the bowl shifted a bit under the strain and some of the caulk oozed out of the side.


It was a rare callback. So from then on it is only grout. I know the NY city plumbers lather plaster of paris all around the closet flange and then set the bowl. Pulling those up off of the floor sometimes breaks the china bowl.
I asked my supply house which ones they had, one guy had no clue then an office guy came out, plumbers don't ask for those and all you need to do is silicone the bowl.... I thought his comment said so idiotic. I replied most plumbers in town have no knowledge outside their tiny tiny bubble, and it's not new construction I do service and still it's not enough if the floor isn't perfect, you going to tell the guy to wait 24 hours to go take a crap?. His response was it's new construction you don't shim.

I said fine amazon is going to get my 200$ to order a jar of them. In my head I was like go back to your office you fool. Seriously that place isn't made for service plumbers they only have new construction stuff. HD is my backup for the rest.


To answer you Tommy the only time I shim is when it wobbles and the only time I silicone is when shims aren't enough or toilets that are anchored on the side with european style mounts.
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
I've used soft rubber shims for a while and they work well and easy to cut. Anyone use the hard plastic ones, what are they like in comparison?

I'm about to order a 200$ jar as they aren't sold locally except those who come in a 4 pack at 155% the price of bulk pack.



A 200$ jar? Hopefully that is canadian. That is either a huge jar or you are grossly overpaying.


https://www.amazon.com/Wobble-Wedges...dp/B00LVQGGKA/


I have used the hard toilet wedges and I don't like them. If the toilet skirts were a little thicker they would be great but often the hard wedges pinch out even with caulking. They also slide very easily on tile. I find they are like tightening wheel lug nuts but worse. By the time you get a couple tight the others are loose again. The hard wedges have zero give so if you have more than three points of contact it's near impossible to get them all tight on a hard floor like tile or concrete. I am sure wood is different but almost all bathrooms are tile.



With the soft wedges I tighten the joni bolts most of the way, wedge them under, then tighten the bolts more. Works great. Use a sharp razor to cut them off, slicing in such a direction that they would get wedged in more so they don't pull out. If you have a sharp blade them pulling out isn't an issue.


With the soft wedges you can cut them off at such an angle that even with clear caulk you won't see them when looking down from above.


All this aside the best method I have ever used was hydraulic cement using it like grout around the base of the toilet. It was a really wonky tile floor. If they could make a cement with superfine grit in a caulk tube it would be perfect.









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Old 11-07-2019, 07:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by skoronesa View Post
A 200$ jar? Hopefully that is canadian. That is either a huge jar or you are grossly overpaying.


.

I'm about to buy a big jar of 300 pieces so I can save money buying in bulk. It's not quite 200$ but with taxes you know.
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Old 11-07-2019, 08:12 PM   #9
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Cedar shims work quite well.. usually use softer rubbery white ones they come in a bag of 200 I think it's like 10 bucks
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Old 11-07-2019, 08:22 PM   #10
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I use cedar shims and the hard plastic shims. It just depends on what I have available. I'm not afraid of the cedar rotting, if everything is sealed there should not be water contacting it.
I use caulk around the base since that's what I was taught. Always making sure to leave a small gap at the rear of course. I just tell the customer not to use the toilet until the next day. I haven't had a callback for caulk yet.
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