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Old 02-15-2019, 09:52 AM   #41
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Corrosion resistant is not corrosion proof. I stick with stainless. SS initial cost amortized over the longer useful life of the screws is a good investment.
That said, I don't have any beef with tapcons. I think they are a very good product.
I haven't seen SS screws that are long and large enough for toilet flanges. All the installation I see have rotted nails, drywall screws, 1/2 wood screw that aren't long enough or nothing at all! I think my idea will outlast everything I see.
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Old 02-16-2019, 01:51 AM   #42
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I haven't seen SS screws that are long and large enough for toilet flanges. All the installation I see have rotted nails, drywall screws, 1/2 wood screw that aren't long enough or nothing at all! I think my idea will outlast everything I see.
If you do service work you don’t want screws that will last forever,you want them to rot out after a few yrs so you can go back and charge again
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Old 02-16-2019, 07:45 PM   #43
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Not yelling at any one particular person on here. Just yelling through the forum on this topic to anyone who might be reading it. I see glue flanges with no screws all the time, almost exclusively here in Charlotte when I am pulling a loose downstairs toilet on a slab.

As far as I know, none of you fine gentlemen partcipated in those shady events, so I guess I am just yelling at the forum lurkers.
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:59 PM   #44
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I haven't seen SS screws that are long and large enough for toilet flanges. All the installation I see have rotted nails, drywall screws, 1/2 wood screw that aren't long enough or nothing at all! I think my idea will outlast everything I see.
12x3" SS phillips screws work well. If anything longer is required, I'd say there is a floor thickness problem.
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:56 PM   #45
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I too just use tapcons for concrete floors and the enamel paint coated electro galvanized deck screws for wood floors. If the toilet is on solid and the gasket doesn't leak than you shouldn't need s.s. screws in a wood floor because they should be dry anyway. And tapcons are made for concrete and even hold up fairly well when used in sewage/effluent pump tiles so I am confident they will be ok in a slab.




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Old 02-17-2019, 05:39 PM   #46
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We use these lead anchors
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:05 PM   #47
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Attachment 110732
We use these lead anchors

Those work well, mostly because they aren't lead. Lead would be too soft. They are zinc/tin.




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Old 02-27-2019, 01:09 AM   #48
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Stub up with a 4" closet riser well above the slab; this gets capped.


Then, when it is time to set fixtures, simply cut it down at finished floor height and install the closet flange. I was taught this way and have been doing it that way for over {20} yrs.


Installing a closet flange before the slab gets poured is silly in my opinion. Now cast iron might be a bit more of a challenge, but not so with PVC.
in new construction i usually left 2'', but in remodeling is between 3/4-1 1/4'.
better less then more,always can put double wax...
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Old 02-27-2019, 04:11 PM   #49
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in new construction i usually left 2'', but in remodeling is between 3/4-1 1/4'.
better less then more,always can put double wax...
Double wax means double the chance for leaks do it right once. Then it won't come back an grab your wallet.
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:12 PM   #50
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Double wax means double the chance for leaks do it right once. Then it won't come back an grab your wallet.

You guys still use wax? I use the black rubber seals from wb.





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