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Old 06-14-2018, 02:08 PM   #11
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I don't think they will show up for anyone. Only two ways I know how to insert them is by going to Advanced reply and it brings up this screen with the emojis. Or you could just type in whatever the emoji is if you know the format/words the site wants. Example, typing in vs_laugh between two colons, it brings up
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:17 PM   #12
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Lastly I don't think he will be back reading more posts but anyway for future reference.

Do you as a farmer give away free food to the supermarket and all you get in return is thank you? I'm pretty sure you do not farm as a charity without any money in return.

Same for plumbers we offer our sanitation services for money so we can buy the farmer's food at the supermarket. I never went to the supermarket and the food was free. Wow that's a brilliant way of doing things in a modern society!
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:52 PM   #13
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Chuckle........ Bye bye...
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmw132001 View Post
Well considering that everyone here seems to be rude and quite frankly think they know everything, yet do not want to help I will go elsewhere. I am a farmer and I know about irrigation, but asked a simple question and want to get a 3rd degree from all of you "professionals". Then you wonder why people do not trust any of you "professionals" to do any work and why most of you get a bad review or reputation.

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btw, your all dikheads too. So go fck yourselves! <img src="https://www.plumbingzone.com/images/forums/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
I dont even know where to start with this. We all think we know everything? I'll be first in line to admit that I don't, not to mention things continually change, laws, products, etc ; so we are ALWAYS learning.

People don't "trust us" ? Sure there are contractors out there with bad names, but why lump people who refuse to give out free advice in with people who are scam artists, scabs, hacks, etc? You already obviously have no trust for your local pros so that is why you are here. ( Or you're just plain cheap, and dont have the first idea what it takes to start a business as a licensed contractor )

We're all "dikheads so go fk yourselves"?

No, you.

Support a local business. As a farmer i'm sure you appreciate it when people do the same for your business.
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmw132001 View Post
I have a few questions concerning a new well that we plan to drive into the ground and also distances and such.

The first thing is we have a brand new (about a year or two old) well pump and tank.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...4430530673.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...935497&ipos=10


If you cannot access the specs via the links, please let me know and I will provide all the details here.






Specs for pump:
Model 2805E-02
1/2 HP Cast Iron Shallow Well Jet Pump
Cast iron shallow well jet pump can pull water from max of 25'


BODY CONSTRUCTION: Cast Iron

HORSEPOWER: 1/2 HP

MAXIMUM CAPACITY: 6.9 GPM

FLOW AT 10' LIFT AND 40 PSI: 6 GPM

MAX LIFT: 25'

MAXIMUM SHUT-OFF PRESSURE: 69 PSI

MAXIMUM INLET PRESSURE: 50 psi (inlet pressure + discharge not to exceed 100 psi)

PRESSURE SWITCH SETTINGS: 30 - 50 PSI

SUCTION SIZE: 1¼" NPT (female)

DISCHARGE SIZE: 1" NPT (female)

AMP DRAW (full load): 4.95 Amps on 230V / 9.9 Amps on 115V

VOLTAGE: 115V / 230V, 60 Hz (factory pre-set to 115v)

RECOMMENDED BREAKER: 15 Amp

MAXIMUM WATER TEMPERATURE: 140°F (60°C)
2805E-02 | 1/2 HP Cast Iron Shallow Well Jet Pump


________________________________________________


Then we also purchased a new tank.
Tank specs:
86 Gallon Vertical Stand Model Pre-Charged Water System Tank

Model Number: HT86


Polypropylene-liner is NSF certified
Liner doesn't impart taste or odor into water
Diaphragm separates water from air chamber
Diaphragm will not fold or crease
Galvanized tank equivalent of 220 gallons
Precharged to 38 PSI
100 PSI max working pressure
Discharge size 1-1/4" NPTF
Malleable iron elbow with stainless insert
No plastic elbow to cross-thread, strip, crack






Right now the setup we have is the 1/2 hp shallow pump on top of the tank and currently have the suction pump going down to the driven well about 10-15ft down.

Now, the problem that I am having now is I need to relocate the well and drive a new one to conform to standards to stay away from the septic tank outside. Now, the distance in which we will have to drive the well "should" be 15ft, but we might have to go to 20 ft. Now problem is, we need to then run this back to the house which I have measured and seems to be between 40-45ft in length from the driven well.

My question(s) are as follows.

1. Will the current pump I have work with this configuration? This is a small 2 bedroom home, 900 sq ft and has only 4 faucets which includes the outside faucet.

2. When I drive the well, I plan to install a "T" at the top which will be underground, then have a pipe come up above ground to be able to service the well if need be later down the road. My question is, do I need to have some sort of check valve installed in the well itself? or just once installed prior to the pump inside in the basement?

3. When running the pipe from the well to the pump in the basement, do I need to have the pipe run at an angle downward toward the pump? or does that matter?

This is the the well point I plan to use here as we have sand and should not be hard at all to do and our water table is around 15ft down.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...484189&ipos=11



This is all going to be 1 1/4 inch piping as well. Need thoughts on this. 2 people living in the home is all it is. For watering outside we have a separate well pump to use for just that.

Thanks for any and all help!

Justin

That simer pump looks like cheap garbage. Get a goulds jet pump and wire it for 230v. It will be several hundred dollars more and it is completely worth it.

Your piping should be pitched so air floats up and to the jet pump for easy priming.

The propylene pipe will need a "foot valve" where it terminates in the bottom of your well. This will have a screen on the end to stop rocks and has a check valve inside so your pump doesn't lose prime. You should also put a check valve a foot or so before the inlet of the pump.

That well tank looks fine. When the bladder gets a hole you should be able to just add more air every so often.

Make sure to get the good poly pipe rated for like 300psi or whatever. The thick stuff. 1" would be fine. Use two hose clamps on each joint facing different directions.

Use only brass insert fittings, at least on what you bury but prefferably on everything. The plastic ones will get brittle and crack.

https://www.houzz.com/product/592287...iABEgL6svD_BwE


https://www.hardwareworld.com/piru9k...SABEgJSr_D_BwE
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:18 AM   #16
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If you run a 30-50 switch you will need to remove some air from that tank so it is at 28psi, not the 38psi precharge. It's also kind of big. You would be fine with one roughly 5 feet tall and a foot and a half in diameter.

Also add a check valve between the pump and tank.

I would suggest driving two wells. Drive one as you normally would. Drive the second as far as possible. If you live above an aquifer fed from a fairly high source it may have significant pressure to actually overflow your casing. Driving the point deeper lessens the chance of drinking less filtered surface water. If you have no hills around you than don't bother.
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:34 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmw132001 View Post
Well considering that everyone here seems to be rude and quite frankly think they know everything, yet do not want to help I will go elsewhere. I am a farmer and I know about irrigation, but asked a simple question and want to get a 3rd degree from all of you "professionals". Then you wonder why people do not trust any of you "professionals" to do any work and why most of you get a bad review or reputation.

Enjoy your site and have fun!



btw, your all dikheads too. So go fck yourselves!


farmers dont ask plumbers questions they ask fleet farm or their neighbor.

i also doubt a farmer would drink 25’ deep water, unless he likes the taste of all the **** he dumps on his crops.


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