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Old 08-31-2015, 11:56 PM   #1
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Amtrol Expansion tank Manual

“A professional plumber should check the complete system, including the expansion tank, yearly and more frequently as the system ages. Checking the precharge allows a small quantity of air to escape and can result in an insufficient air charge. Always check the precharge while the tank is isolated and empty of water, and be sure to maintain the proper precharge whenever the tank is inspected.”

Do you guys warranty the expansion tanks along with the water heaters you install? I figure that a maintenance plan to inspect yearly would cost more than $2,000 over the life of a water heater.

As soon as I startup a water heater I'll have the pressure gauge hooked up and watch to see if the water pressure rises. Less than 20% of the water heaters that I install actually have a rise in water pressure while the gauge is hooked up.
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:59 PM   #2
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[QUOTE=plumberkc;763441]Amtrol Expansion tank Manual <snip>

When making a service it was always mandatory, that the water is shut off at the main valve. Then go to a cold water faucet, if the water does not run from that faucet for a period of [lets say] 15 seconds. You can almost be sure that the therm tank is faulty. A good thermal tank will continue to push water under pressure. Of course that after you have shut the main it's possible that a faucet was in use, toilet flushed --- what not. But it is a good guide on service try it out!
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:08 PM   #3
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Manufacturers warranty on it. Tap it with something high pitch-full of air-good! Low pitch-waterlogged bad.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:52 PM   #4
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All thermal expansion tanks should be charged to the house pressure after the reducing valve. Failure to do this will result in premature failure of the tank. Also the expansion tank is pretty useless. Most tanks come precharged to 30psi.
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Old 09-11-2015, 07:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bpo1222 View Post
All thermal expansion tanks should be charged to the house pressure after the reducing valve. Failure to do this will result in premature failure of the tank. Also the expansion tank is pretty useless. Most tanks come precharged to 30psi.
I just charge expansion tanks to 70-75psi ever time,no matter what the incoming pressure is,80 psi is max anyways
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky
I just charge expansion tanks to 70-75psi ever time,no matter what the incoming pressure is,80 psi is max anyways
I check pressure in every house and it's fairly common to have water pressure exceed 80 psi.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plumberkc
I check pressure in every house and it's fairly common to have water pressure exceed 80 psi.
and also against code.
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Old 09-11-2015, 09:10 PM   #8
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Expansion tanks should be charged 20-30% less than incoming pressure. If you have it charged to the same pressure where is the thermal EXPANSION going to expand too? There is a reason they are sometimes called cushion tanks...

And if you suspect your tank is water logged just tap the shraeder valve for a second, if water comes out, tank is pooched...
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyrickmech
and also against code.
I would be fine with 84psi at any one of my rentals.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plumber patt
Expansion tanks should be charged 20-30% less than incoming pressure. If you have it charged to the same pressure where is the thermal EXPANSION going to expand too? There is a reason they are sometimes called cushion tanks... And if you suspect your tank is water logged just tap the shraeder valve for a second, if water comes out, tank is pooched...
An expansion tank is steel with no glass liner. Inflate it below the water pressure and it will look like this in less than 2 years.
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