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Old 11-14-2019, 08:48 PM   #11
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There would definitely be dip switches inside unit to change from 120-130 domestic to a 180 limit on a hydronic system.. awesome thanks for the post and keeping us informed
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Old 11-14-2019, 11:24 PM   #12
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I have hardwood throughout


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hard wood temp should be under 90 degrees or you risk warping the wood...





Q. Are there any design limitations you need to be aware of?A. Radiant heat is very efficient but does have some limitations. When ceilings exceed 10’ high, the amount of cubic air that needs to be heated can create problems for a hardwood floor. Rooms with high ceilings can create a situation where the floors can become too warm due to the high volume of space to be heated. Rooms with high ceilings may require radiant heat to be installed in the ceilings and ceiling fans mounted to circulate the air.NOTE: All systems should have a fail-safe to ensure that the surface of the floor never exceeds the recommended surface temperature of 85

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&cad=rja& uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwin6I_XoOvlAhVRJKwKHSIYB7IQFjALeg QIABAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fhallmarkfloors.com%2Fpdfs %2FRadiant-Heat-Guide.pdf&usg=AOvVaw13mBnb4sCEHJVJ9Lh4zju0


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Old 11-19-2019, 12:45 PM   #13
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The system is operating as it should. It is set at 72 and that seems to be the limit to how high it will go which is more than fine. Next phase is adding more lines and duffuser plates since I only installed one run of 1/2 with plates between each bay. I think it would heat up faster if i doubled the amount of pex and plates. Does that make sense?


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Old 11-19-2019, 02:38 PM   #14
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The system is operating as it should. It is set at 72 and that seems to be the limit to how high it will go which is more than fine. Next phase is adding more lines and duffuser plates since I only installed one run of 1/2” with plates between each bay. I think it would heat up faster if i doubled the amount of pex and plates. Does that make sense?


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Yes and increase efficiency... mod con boilers work best with low return temps and best way to do that is large emitters think infloor poured the entire floor is the heat emitter
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Old 11-21-2019, 11:04 PM   #15
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The system is operating as it should. It is set at 72 and that seems to be the limit to how high it will go which is more than fine. Next phase is adding more lines and duffuser plates since I only installed one run of 1/2 with plates between each bay. I think it would heat up faster if i doubled the amount of pex and plates. Does that make sense?


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But if the tagaki is a plain Jane tankless it may not give you the flow needed to double the amount tubing. Do your homework before you go to the trouble of adding a bunch of tubing.


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Old 11-22-2019, 12:24 PM   #16
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are you referring to the max flow rating of the machine?

I figured flow was based on speed of grundfos pumps


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Old 11-22-2019, 05:48 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by JohnnieSqueeze View Post
The system is operating as it should. It is set at 72 and that seems to be the limit to how high it will go which is more than fine. Next phase is adding more lines and duffuser plates since I only installed one run of 1/2 with plates between each bay. I think it would heat up faster if i doubled the amount of pex and plates. Does that make sense?


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how hot is the water going through the pex?
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Old 11-24-2019, 11:01 AM   #18
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how hot is the water going through the pex?


140


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Old 11-24-2019, 11:07 AM   #19
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You should take pictures of your setup so we can see how you got it configured
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