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Unread 11-13-2019, 09:52 PM   #1
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Default Heater keeps turning off

Just finished my first hydronic heating system. I did it in my own house before I venture out to other projects. The problem I am having is the Tagaki water heater I used keeps going to standbye. In order to get it to fire I need to close and then rapidly open any valve in the system. It seems like its not getting enough pressure differential from hot to cold. It is a closed loop system. I am using two Grundfos pumps on one zone. One pump moves water through the pex pipes the other is a recirculator.

Any ideas?


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Unread 11-13-2019, 09:57 PM   #2
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Thinking....
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Unread 11-13-2019, 10:00 PM   #3
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According to tagaki the unit activates at a flow of .5gpm and deactivates when it drops to .4gpm. When it does operate it delivers consistent 120 degree water and the flow rate with pumps on is 2.2 GPM. Gas is 1 reduced to 3/4 5 ft from inlet and it is the first appliance after the meter. No obstructions in 3 venting.


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Unread 11-13-2019, 10:13 PM   #4
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Combi-boiler or just on demand water heater
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Unread 11-13-2019, 10:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venomthirst View Post
Combi-boiler or just on demand water heater


on demand water heater according to Tagaki its rated for residential hydronic


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Unread 11-13-2019, 11:54 PM   #6
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What temperature is your high limit set to.
Do you have zone valves that are reducing the flow.
Are you getting error codes.
With a system like you speak about, you may need a three way valve to maintain the flow if you heating modulates temperature.
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Unread 11-14-2019, 09:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken53 View Post
What temperature is your high limit set to.
Do you have zone valves that are reducing the flow.
Are you getting error codes.
With a system like you speak about, you may need a three way valve to maintain the flow if you heating modulates temperature.


The water heater is set at 120. Im not sure what the high limit setting is. It is cycling on and off now. Seems to be running more consistently but not constantly.

My return temp is 105.

I have 3 loops each 300 ft. And I used aluminum plates throught.

The system is floor joist retrofit. I do not have reflective foil in place. I apparently just realized that is necessary this AM.

Grundfos circulators set on high speed.

Thank You for your help. I am going to post a picture of the setup.


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Unread 11-14-2019, 03:13 PM   #8
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Update:

Got ahold of Tagaki. Depending upon flow and temp setting the unit auto shuts off. In my case it is when income temp is in excess of 112 degrees. I adjusted the temperature control on the unit to over ride the factory 120 up to 140. This is turn will not shut the unit off until water reaches 132 on the return side.

Also adding double foil bubble insulation.

Much warmer!


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Unread 11-14-2019, 05:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieSqueeze View Post
Update:

Got ahold of Tagaki. Depending upon flow and temp setting the unit auto shuts off. In my case it is when income temp is in excess of 112 degrees. I adjusted the temperature control on the unit to over ride the factory 120 up to 140. This is turn will not shut the unit off until water reaches 132 on the return side.

Also adding double foil bubble insulation.

Much warmer!


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Remember the floor finishes like carpet insulate the floor so it takes more heat in your radiant.
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Unread 11-14-2019, 08:25 PM   #10
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I have hardwood throughout


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