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Old 10-30-2018, 12:23 PM   #21
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I decided to purchase the general this morning and placed my order. I went with this option because the AR630-SS-HOT is going to be way too heavy then I would of had to buy a lot of stuff separately, the hose, nozzles, spring lead, pulsator etc. I would of had to order from different places and what happens if it didn't work right? 1500$ or more for all that gambling? Got to remember kitchen lines here are often improperly done with vent 90s

Everything is ordered out of the country and major headaches when you have a problem and need to order things if you are lucky to even get them at all.
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Old 10-30-2018, 12:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoronesa View Post
They are not 1/4". They are 1/8".
Can the general's nozzles be drilled to accommodate a custom pattern? If they are stainless it might be impossible? I saw some specialty 1/4" nozzles from another vendor. Is there a way to adapt 1/8" to 1/4" as short as possible?
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Old 10-30-2018, 01:27 PM   #23
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[/quote]

Can the general's nozzles be drilled to accommodate a custom pattern? If they are stainless it might be impossible? I saw some specialty 1/4" nozzles from another vendor. Is there a way to adapt 1/8" to 1/4" as short as possible?[/QUOTE]

There are a few websites where you can get nozzles custom drilled to your jetter's specs. Depending on the type of nozzle you're looking for they're not terribly expensive. I think I've paid about $40 for the cheaper nozzles. I wouldn't recommend trying to drill the nozzles they include with the jetter. They're already drilled to maximize the cleaning power of that particular unit.
I hope it works out for you. You'd be surprised how easy it is to upsell jetting. If you show them how much crud comes out on the cable and offer an extended warranty if they jet it's like taking candy from a baby.
I like being honest with the customers so I don't upsell unless the line is excessively dirty, greasy or they've had constant clogs even after snaking.
The next step is getting a micro camera so you can prove the difference jetting makes. That's another upsell opportunity. Sometimes I'll do the camera for free if the jetting goes relatively easy. The cameras are too expensive to repair so I'm not going to inspect every small drain I jet for free.
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Old 10-30-2018, 03:36 PM   #24
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There are a few websites where you can get nozzles custom drilled to your jetter's specs. Depending on the type of nozzle you're looking for they're not terribly expensive. I think I've paid about $40 for the cheaper nozzles. I wouldn't recommend trying to drill the nozzles they include with the jetter. They're already drilled to maximize the cleaning power of that particular unit.
I hope it works out for you. You'd be surprised how easy it is to upsell jetting. If you show them how much crud comes out on the cable and offer an extended warranty if they jet it's like taking candy from a baby.
I like being honest with the customers so I don't upsell unless the line is excessively dirty, greasy or they've had constant clogs even after snaking.
The next step is getting a micro camera so you can prove the difference jetting makes. That's another upsell opportunity. Sometimes I'll do the camera for free if the jetting goes relatively easy. The cameras are too expensive to repair so I'm not going to inspect every small drain I jet for free.[/QUOTE]


I only got 2-3 real greasy lines in the last 12 months, We'll see. Haven't been called back on any drain yet other the mainline this weekend.

Which camera do you use for 1 1/2" pipes?
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Old 10-30-2018, 03:40 PM   #25
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I use the Ridgid micro reel. Unless there are a crazy amount of bends it will usually go through. If it's galvanized pipe I don't even try, I'd rather lose out on making a few dollars than damaging the camera.
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Old 10-30-2018, 08:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Can the general's nozzles be drilled to accommodate a custom pattern? If they are stainless it might be impossible? I saw some specialty 1/4" nozzles from another vendor. Is there a way to adapt 1/8" to 1/4" as short as possible?



You don't have drill bits that small and as you guessed you're not going to drill stainless that thick.


1/8"x1/4" steel bushing. Heck even brass would be fine.


I really don't think you'll need a different nozzle than stock. The three backward jets really help propel it forward and I wouldn't want any less propulsion because its tough as it is especially in galvanized or cast iron.


If you are snaking from a trap/fixture than you really only want one forward jet to make a hole in the middle for the head and the three backward jets to force the waste to you instead of down the drain further to make a new clog or make the clog worse. Ideally you snake from the main towards the fixture.


I think you're putting the cart before the horse here. Get the unit first and then you'll see what you need. When I first got it the selection of nozzles it came with really bothered me too until I tried it. And boy was that first job a real test, like 15' of 1-1/2" no-hub just packed with rust, sediment, sand, and soap scum/face creams/toothpaste.



I will say that the green slinky hose and valve they give you is garbage so you'll want a long washing machine hook up hose and a good ball valve. One of the slinky hose ends is part of the valve. You do get some nice faucet adapters for hooking up to water. I also carry a boiler drain on the end of a flex faucet supply I use for getting water.



Maybe try a 100$ jetting fee at first and see how it goes, you can always raise your rates later but I think at 100$ you will make your money back pretty quick. Also, they say you can use it for 3" lines, I haven't it tried that yet but I am pretty sure that would be a grease only affair. I am not going to blast turds with this thing and certainly not wet wipes or feminine hygiene products.


I know you live in the city so you probably have distributed gas but if you want a more powerful electric jetter and if a clothes dryer receptacle isn't available just wire a plug to the electric hot water heater. Either of those would be double 30 amp breakers. If you got a 220v model you could make a special splitter box and run one extension cord to one room and a separate cord to another so you could pickup the two hot cicuits and get 220v
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Old 10-30-2018, 08:57 PM   #27
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Draino or borrow some of my stashed lye concoction.

Will this really be worth all the hassle?
I thought about getting an electric jetter for high rise work.
Not worth it was my deduction.

A good man with a proper cable and some magic tricks does it all.
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:29 PM   #28
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Draino or borrow some of my stashed lye concoction.

Will this really be worth all the hassle?
I thought about getting an electric jetter for high rise work.
Not worth it was my deduction.

A good man with a proper cable and some magic tricks does it all.



Draino is lye, not as strong as lye flakes for sure though. Either way I have found hydrochloric acid to be the best chemical drain cleaner. Lye is really just good for hair. Most soaps are basic so lye won't break them down any further. And lye won't break down fats from food because it has already been rendered. To make things worse lye will make steel/iron rust faster but won't break down rust. Hydrochloric acid turns red rust(iron oxide 4) into black/blue rust(iron oxide 5) which will cause the large flakes/clumps of rust to break up and make a corrosion resistant layer on the inside of the pipe. Hydrochloric acid won't corrode through steel/iron so it wont make your rust problem worse.



I disagree that a cable will do it all. For starters I have had at least a handful of drains that a cable couldn't get. Maybe you don't have 100 year old cast iron and galvanized pipes.


Also cables never get something as clean as a jetter as quickly. Sure you can run hot water while you cable but even then it's not the end all be all.


Do you have a camera? Have you camera'd a line before and after cabling and seen what is still stuck in the pipe?
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoronesa View Post
Draino is lye, not as strong as lye flakes for sure though. Either way I have found hydrochloric acid to be the best chemical drain cleaner. Lye is really just good for hair. Most soaps are basic so lye won't break them down any further. And lye won't break down fats from food because it has already been rendered. To make things worse lye will make steel/iron rust faster but won't break down rust. Hydrochloric acid turns red rust(iron oxide 4) into black/blue rust(iron oxide 5) which will cause the large flakes/clumps of rust to break up and make a corrosion resistant layer on the inside of the pipe. Hydrochloric acid won't corrode through steel/iron so it wont make your rust problem worse.



I disagree that a cable will do it all. For starters I have had at least a handful of drains that a cable couldn't get. Maybe you don't have 100 year old cast iron and galvanized pipes.


Also cables never get something as clean as a jetter as quickly. Sure you can run hot water while you cable but even then it's not the end all be all.


Do you have a camera? Have you camera'd a line before and after cabling and seen what is still stuck in the pipe?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here we go!!

The bit about Lye is just sarcasm.
For crying out loud, get some humor in your life!

I have four camera's and two monitors because I like toys and am considered
in my area to be a top notch technician.
Among many other things I've been doing this a long time.
I own a Clog Dog and camera behind it in main lines.

I used to be able to piss harder than most of the electric Jetters out there.
Getting old.

There's all kinds of tricks to use in many situations that will get you the required
results in any size line. It's a matter of being a life long learner.

If you use any kind of drain cleaner, be it lye or Hydrochloric acid your a hack.
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Quote:
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I’ll take a picture of the nozzles tomorrow for you.

Yes they are 1/4” Npt
They are not 1/4". They are 1/8".

I too have one and very much enjoy it. I prefer it over my k40af. It works very well and uses just the right amount of water. Usually I run the shop vac while I use it because at first you will get some water coming back at you. Lots of times I am able to just fit a 5 gallon bucket under the trap adapter. I have at times screwed on a short piece of pipe with a female adapter to bring it out to where its easier to deal with.

I wouldn't call it weak, it can certainly cut up any waste blocking a drain. But at 1500psi it won't harm the pipes. If they are already really rotted then yeah, they will probably break but I think this is actually easier on pipes than a snake.

The only thing I didnt like was the pos on/off switch. My manager got ahold of general and they sent a new one which was a different brand. All good now.

It comes with 4 nozzles, I only use one of them, it has one forward hole and three backward. None of the other stock nozzles have a forward hole. You could lower the pressure by getting a nozzle with more/bigger holes if you are worried about cutting a pipe.

All of this said you could also just get an electric pressure washer, some hose, and the nozzles all seperately. I havent looked at the prices/options of that.
You are correct , 1/8” NPT
I just bought the Big Brute Jetter from Jetters North West and my Brain is a bit fried.
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