Tough time getting the jetter hose out. - Page 2 - Plumbing Zone - Professional Plumbers Forum
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:08 PM   #11
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I don't carry corrugated pipe so if it came to that I'd have to cut the 1/4" jetting tube at the machine and use 1/2" or 3/4" pex. It would ruin the crimped end though.



He was using a large jetter for a 4" line, probably 3/4" to 1" hose.




If our mini-jetter hose gets stuck I think it's safe to say you just yank <img src="https://www.plumbingzone.com/images/forums/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />






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Close. It was actually a 3/8" hose. I was jetting the 4" main through a 3" test tee. It was in a pretty cramped utility room so I was limited on options for retrieval.

I got my 3/16" hose stuck the other day from going through too many bends. That one was relatively easy since I just sent the 5/8" sectional cable after it and was able to pull out both together.
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Old 04-29-2020, 02:31 AM   #12
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No guts no glory, right?

Iíve wrapped 1/2 hose around the bucket on a mini to pull it out.
Me too, and it worked.
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Old 04-29-2020, 04:19 AM   #13
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I know your pain on that. I've had the jetter get stuck so many times man, it helps of you leave pressure on about 300 psi, twist and pull back. I've spent days working on that and am hesitant to use it everytime

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Old 04-29-2020, 08:14 PM   #14
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sometimes when a sewer hose goes into the street tap... the tap isnt directional and it can go the wrong way.. or even the tap itself puts extra resistance on the hose..



If your looking for job creation... the two Y's together there should be cleanouts on each one of them if its more than 45 degrees of direction change....


personally I don't like flushing downstream with larger than 1/4" without a manhole..
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Old 04-29-2020, 09:50 PM   #15
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personally I don't like flushing downstream with larger than 1/4" without a manhole..



Can you explain what you mean a little more? You don't use larger than a 1/4" jetter without having a manhole downstream?








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Old 04-29-2020, 10:07 PM   #16
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sometimes when a sewer hose goes into the street tap... the tap isnt directional and it can go the wrong way.. or even the tap itself puts extra resistance on the hose..



If your looking for job creation... the two Y's together there should be cleanouts on each one of them if its more than 45 degrees of direction change....


personally I don't like flushing downstream with larger than 1/4" without a manhole..
That's what I told the plumber who referred me. Unfortunately the wyes are under the HVAC unit so he doubts the homeowners will want to do it.

They still needed more time with the jetter but I told him if I kept going he would probably owe me for a full day based on how difficult it was to retrieve the hose.

I didn't go past the tap so I didn't get stuck in the county's line. I checked the manholes but the closest one downhill was too far to reach with my 3/8" hose. That one is only 150 feet long. I have had to run my hose all the way to the manhole, for retrieval, twice before. This one was much more difficult than those jobs.

Do you get good cast iron de-scaling with a 1/4" hose and nozzle? I've found it faster and easier with the 1/2" hose than the 3/8" due to less pressure loss and higher volume. I only use the 1/2" if there's an outside cleanout.
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:11 PM   #17
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Do you get good cast iron de-scaling with a 1/4" hose and nozzle? I've found it faster and easier with the 1/2" hose than the 3/8" due to less pressure loss and higher volume. I only use the 1/2" if there's an outside cleanout.



I find the 1/4" does a pretty good job in both cast and galv, and that's hooked to the general mini-jetter. Hooking a 1/4" hose to a real jetter and I am sure it would do even better. But if you have the bigger hose I would just stick with that.






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Old 04-29-2020, 10:18 PM   #18
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Can you explain what you mean a little more? You don't use larger than a 1/4" jetter without having a manhole downstream?
.


Sorry, my minds foggy got lots on the go...


If I'm using a jetter working from a cleanout inside... I don't like to use jetter with anything larger than 1/4".... its too hard to twist and maneuver the jet with a 3/8" hose....


yes you use a lot more pressure, but your can twist your way out of hang ups... or twist it through bends much easier... also smaller hose less weight, less resistance...



Guy on youtube smashing 1/2" hose through 3" pipe that's insane to me.. even 3/8 seems like effort



Jetter inside = bad time quick... we have a lot of finished basements and to me its not worth destroying someones house if I can help it..


for me 3/8" and up either outside cleanouts... or Manhole.. Sometimes I've had to keep going to next downstream manhole to get hose out because it wouldn't come back..


and generally as a rule... 3/8 is for 6" and up and ill use 1/4 for straight 2",3",4" and 6" from house to road... If its pretty straight, and I got it clear and can see what pipe looks like.. ill use 3/8" from basement with warthog trying not to go into street..


a trick to keep your hose down in the pipe so you don't fly out of holes in pipe is run a short nipple on your hose.. 3" works... keeps the hose on the ground... with large hose larger nipple... that being said.. sometimes it can get caught on things got to use judgement here..


if there is a hole in the pipe 90 percent the hose will find it... Ive had my hose go over top of badly broken pipe... only to re-enter sewer after bad spot....


Im not some super human jetter master, just what I have learned over last 10 years running jetter almost daily... The real jetter master I know has been doing it like this since 80's he doesn't know everything either but hes a damn good mentor
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:41 PM   #19
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That's what I told the plumber who referred me. Unfortunately the wyes are under the HVAC unit so he doubts the homeowners will want to do it.

They still needed more time with the jetter but I told him if I kept going he would probably owe me for a full day based on how difficult it was to retrieve the hose.

I didn't go past the tap so I didn't get stuck in the county's line. I checked the manholes but the closest one downhill was too far to reach with my 3/8" hose. That one is only 150 feet long. I have had to run my hose all the way to the manhole, for retrieval, twice before. This one was much more difficult than those jobs.

Do you get good cast iron de-scaling with a 1/4" hose and nozzle? I've found it faster and easier with the 1/2" hose than the 3/8" due to less pressure loss and higher volume. I only use the 1/2" if there's an outside cleanout.

sorry I missed this before my last post..... descaling wise... it all depends what your using... I find a "Flushing" nozzle works best like all back 5 back, or 6 back... followed up with a rotating nozzle.. If those wyes were all cast Its gonna be hard probably no matter what when its like that just tons of friction there.. the way i see it is if I have to do 20 passes... but its a lot easier to pull back the hose ill do that, because let the machine do the work not you.. arms hurt enough from yanking cables all day, let alone the jetter



but yea it does a fair job in the 4" even with the 1/4"... Our machines are I think 12gpm... then 18gpm ,and 20 gpm..



so your loosing pressure but the volume makes up for it.. you don't need that much volume and a 5gpm machine would probably do just as good may take a bit longer



We don't really have lots of cast iron mains in the ground here though.. like sometimes it'll be cast for a bit in ground but always goes to clay..



there are some that are all cast... but usually larger like 6" and ill use a 3/8" wart hog nice and slow.. and it does decent..


If it's in the ground outside here its mostly Clay, Transite(A.C), Concrete, PVC, Cast in that order... very rarely orange burg( once personally, my cousins house go figure)... and extremely old street mains are brick; tear drop.. I've also seen a square brick lateral to main before once... on the oldest street in city..


1/2" is for manhole to manhole imo.. thats on the 18gpm, and the 20gpm
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