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Old 01-20-2019, 11:18 PM   #11
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I have a plumbing friend who runs the General 92,
but he runs the Electric Eel 5/8" Tri max cable in it for the last year and thinks it is great
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Old 01-21-2019, 01:25 AM   #12
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I have a plumbing friend who runs the General 92,
but he runs the Electric Eel 5/8" Tri max cable in it for the last year and thinks it is great
I have heard good things about electric eel cable but it's also kind of a moot point for me. My bosses use certain suppliers and I don't get much leeway. If I wanted I could get my manager to buy ridgid cables next time but then it wouldn't have a mount that matched all of the heads we have. It would have that stupid joint that uses the awl where you stab your hand. The old ridgid/kollmann k-750 we have has a nice cable but it is old. From how the cables sucked on my k-40af I assume they have schitty ones now. I am not risking that.

Honestly the weakest point on all good cables seems to be the end. I have had ends break where the outside weld fails but not the inside weld to the inner core. That to me is a nice buffer. Even the repair heads tend to just twist sideways without coming off and they are easy to replace with a 14 and an 18.

Unless you do something stupid the general cables are much stronger than the motor can muster which is also more than enough to break a pipe. The fool proof way to never break a cable is just run a crescent head first. This way if you are too over zealous and pick up too many hygiene products or roots at one time the crescent will break roughly half way down and you can get your cable back. Then you can go again. After you clear the waste the small broken piece can easily be flushed out if it hasn't already.




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Old 01-21-2019, 11:28 AM   #13
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I like the back saver idea
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:04 PM   #14
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ELECTRIC EEL
Can put General ends on their cables, or Ridgid,or what ever you may need, no matter who makes the cable
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:10 PM   #15
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ELECTRIC EEL
Can put General ends on their cables, or Ridgid,or what ever you may need, no matter who makes the cable
Trust me man, I know, but when I tried to order right hand eel cables in 5/16" and 3/8" for my k-40af I was given a left hand 1/4" general cable. So now I am stuck running it in reverse and holding the back paddle to go foward. It's a pos anyway so I gave up.

Luckily the situation is good with my 5/8" and I now have the mini-jet for small lines so I never use the k-40af anymore. I am probably going to take it off the van and add two more parts buckets.



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Old 01-23-2019, 12:09 PM   #16
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We have t-3's and speedrooters 92's on all of our drain cleaning trucks. We only do commercial work, so everything we run into in the floor is minimum of 3", but mostly 4" and up. We beat the ever living crap out of both of these machines, they are pretty sturdy, just about everything can be repaired/replaced on them. We have a local welder that welds new tips on the cables, if/when they get broken and have spare drums and cables at our shop when the need arises. In agreement on the powerfeeds, rebuild every 6 months is about right, depending on how many grease lines you have to do. We also carry an extra drum for both the 92 and the t-3 on all trucks as well. It would be nice if new construction guys would put cleanouts every 100', apparently that is not something that is checked for too often!

The t-3 works better for going through a 3" trap than the 92, that is the main reason we carry them. Depends on what you are going to use the machine for. We have zero use for a sectional machine with the type of work we do, but I am sure they work great for roots, its just not something we run into. Love the pully system idea, I am going to check into it...
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Old 02-06-2019, 10:17 AM   #17
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We have t-3's and speedrooters 92's on all of our drain cleaning trucks. We only do commercial work, so everything we run into in the floor is minimum of 3", but mostly 4" and up. We beat the ever living crap out of both of these machines, they are pretty sturdy, just about everything can be repaired/replaced on them. We have a local welder that welds new tips on the cables, if/when they get broken and have spare drums and cables at our shop when the need arises. In agreement on the powerfeeds, rebuild every 6 months is about right, depending on how many grease lines you have to do. We also carry an extra drum for both the 92 and the t-3 on all trucks as well. It would be nice if new construction guys would put cleanouts every 100', apparently that is not something that is checked for too often!

The t-3 works better for going through a 3" trap than the 92, that is the main reason we carry them. Depends on what you are going to use the machine for. We have zero use for a sectional machine with the type of work we do, but I am sure they work great for roots, its just not something we run into. Love the pully system idea, I am going to check into it...

In new construction we usually do pipe in for clean outs. Then after we get our inspection we cut the pipe off under the floor and cap it because the the people we are building for don't want to see clean outs in the middle of their floor. For some reason people seem to hate seeing any kind of plumbing no matter how nice it looks.

Now I am doing a lot of service and I feel bad about not putting in clean outs all over the place, but the guy writing the checks makes the rules.
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Old 02-06-2019, 10:29 AM   #18
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In new construction we usually do pipe in for clean outs. Then after we get our inspection we cut the pipe off under the floor and cap it because the the people we are building for don't want to see clean outs in the middle of their floor. For some reason people seem to hate seeing any kind of plumbing no matter how nice it looks.

Now I am doing a lot of service and I feel bad about not putting in clean outs all over the place, but the guy writing the checks makes the rules.
You should say to yourself, the plumbing code makes the rules. It's not too late
to make the next ones serviceable. You can always try to design the system where cleanouts are not noticeable but are there to do service work.
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Old 02-06-2019, 10:53 PM   #19
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I have that 1/2" and NEVER use it. When the other guys cover my calls they will bring the 1/2", not get the clog, and then tell the customer I will come monday with the "big snake". I use the 5/8" version. I think they call the 5/8" the speedrooter 92. I have two 5/8"x100 cables in drums and a 3/4"x75 in a drum. I also have a spare drive head. I use my 5/8" several times a week for 4" main line blockages. Having the spares is a must so you don't miss a call. The drive heads last about 6 months before being torn down, cleaned, and new bearings put in.



It has a lot of torque even though it's only 1/3hp. Occasionally(once or twice a year) I will run the 5/8" all the way out and then swap drums, connect cables, and run the 3/4" so I can get out even farther. I don't like doing this but for a good customer in a pinch I will. Usually I just tell them sorry call joe blow with the 600' jetter and the excavator.



It is alright going upstairs, easier than our ridgid/kollmann k-750 drum snake but mostly because the general is shorter. Both have stair rollers. For getting the snake back in my van I have a ramp and a pulley system. For years I used to just get in and pull it up myself but after a manhole cover broke my toe and it had to heal for a couple weeks I finally broke down and took the time to do something I have been wanting to do for years.



The guys on here mostly seem to like sectional and the ridgid drum units but personally I love my general snake, never lets me down. The general cables are great too and I recommend them regardless of what brand drum unit you get. General is first and foremost a wire and spring company. I wouldn't be surprised if they make other brands cables. Of course they keep the best alloy recipes to themselves.


https://drainbrain.com/en/products/speedrooter-92/


Get that guy^^ It won't let you down.



.
I've got 3 speedrooters 92/91's, the oldest is a 1/2 hp 91. Great machines, the 91 is 10+ years old and still running. The 5/8 cable is perfect, no need for bigger. My jetter handles everything above that.
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Old 02-07-2019, 12:04 AM   #20
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You should say to yourself, the plumbing code makes the rules. It's not too late
to make the next ones serviceable. You can always try to design the system where cleanouts are not noticeable but are there to do service work.



Screw the code and the boss. When I see that a clean out is needed because I know it will be an issue I put it in whether code or boss says it's necessary or not. My boss trusts me and my judgement. And if the 40$ in fittings/labor for that c.o. is really too much in his or the customers book I will pay it out of my pocket because it will save me literal pain in the future. My boss and that customer will likely be sleeping in the ground when I have to come back to snake that drain and I know how much my body hurts now forget 20 years from now.



When I run buried waste I always stub up at least one c.o. and then draw a map on the wall in the basement where it goes out or make a map and hang it. This way if I set it below the grass or it gets covered then I or my successors(prolly my kids) can find it.


Up to code doesn't mean up to snuff. It just means the inspector won't care because his liability is covered. If you want to do the minimum and charge as much as you can for your benefit than be my guest. For me, it's hard to look at 120 year old plumbing and not want to install something that will last that long too.





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