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Old 06-29-2020, 11:29 PM   #1
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Default Self Feed Bits Vs Hole Saws VS other stuff

So, for the first time in a while we are looking at a wood frame project. Most of our stuff is commercial and its not wood frame.

For years we have been using self feed bits, but they have their limitations, plus it seems like I always catch some idiot apprentice running a 4-5/8 self feed bit on a ladder with a regular drill or worse, a hole hawg. I am fine with a timberwolf for that application, but only a timberwolf and nothing else. Plus the nail issue. There is never a small amount of cussing with that.

We also keep a stock of holesaws around for when you hit a nail or its easier or whatever.

I have seen some of the stuff like Milwaukee Big Hawg hole saw(ish) kits around but haven't played with them much.

We have a sales guy who can do a dog and pony show, but it is horribly obvious that he doesn't ever really have to drill a hole in anything let alone give us a demo.

I'm looking for opinions on what you guys think for this application. I am also curious about drills, what are you all using for a right angle drill. Do you like what you have? Do you hate it?

Part of the reason I am asking these questions; I've noticed that other folks from around the country have different methods, and some are better than others, but it is nice to hear how others think, with respect to efficiency and methods.

Thank you all!
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Old 06-30-2020, 02:21 AM   #2
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Mostly retired now, but we had sets of Milwaukee Big Hawg and loved them.
Even the Lenox single tooth models are ok if the investment isn't worth it for long term.
I have a nice diamond particle disc sharpner that allows spiffy sharpening because nails are always every place.
Once we hit a nail, pull out the standard hole saw and grind through.
Timberwolf is mostly what we use and one Milwaukee Super Hawg.
Absolutely best quick change arbor is the Dewalt spring loaded model:
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:06 AM   #3
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I have a couple 1 3/8 self feed for water , that's about it for those style of bits. I found the key to hole saws is removing the swarf. A hole somewhere in the diameter of the hole you're drilling allows the swarf to fall out. With this, the saws stay cooler , don't bind up and last longer.
Still have the original Timberwolf with metal case. It's been replaced with a Dewalt 124.
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Old 06-30-2020, 08:25 AM   #4
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Here :




https://www.plumbingzone.com/f10/bes...od-bits-62266/

https://www.plumbingzone.com/f10/rig...e-drill-27830/

https://www.plumbingzone.com/f10/stu...-drills-80601/


.
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Old 06-30-2020, 10:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironandfire View Post
I have a couple 1 3/8 self feed for water , that's about it for those style of bits. I found the key to hole saws is removing the swarf. A hole somewhere in the diameter of the hole you're drilling allows the swarf to fall out. With this, the saws stay cooler , don't bind up and last longer.
Still have the original Timberwolf with metal case. It's been replaced with a Dewalt 124.
oops.....We still call them a Timberwolf. I don't think it has been called that for a long time. We use a DW-124.

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Old 06-30-2020, 04:28 PM   #6
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If carpenters would show a little class and line their plate nails up with the studs there would be a lot less agony on our part.
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Old 06-30-2020, 06:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakewilcox View Post
..........

For years we have been using self feed bits, but they have their limitations, plus it seems like I always catch some idiot apprentice running a 4-5/8 self feed bit on a ladder with a regular drill or worse, a hole hawg. I am fine with a timberwolf for that application, but only a timberwolf and nothing else. Plus the nail issue. There is never a small amount of cussing with that.

We also keep a stock of holesaws around for when you hit a nail or its easier or whatever. ...........

For holes up to 1-1/2" irwin has self feeding bits which can go in the impact, though I generally use a regular drill. They have three cutting edges and work pretty well.


For holes up to about 3" we use the self feeding forstner bits in a super hawg.



Anything above 3" use a holesaw in a regular drill and like ironandfire said, drilling a hole or three with the pilot bit somewhere in the circuference of your cut allows the holesaw to clear the swarf. That is the downfall of holesaws, amateurs never let the cutting clear so they just bind up in the teeth. Then the teeth rapidly overheat and lose temper.









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Old 07-03-2020, 06:16 AM   #8
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..as far my part of the country, the inspectors aren't critical about drilling studs for drainage. I don't for kitchen sink waste arm. I will for the washer box. Case in point. Was called out to some condos, Piping water heaters, 3 rd floor, six penetrations. Third pic would have never worked with 1/4 bends. Drilled at a 22.5 with parallel 22.5 offsets ( 1/16 bends butted hub to hub).
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Old 07-03-2020, 10:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironandfire View Post
..as far my part of the country, the inspectors aren't critical about drilling studs for drainage. I don't for kitchen sink waste arm. I will for the washer box. Case in point. Was called out to some condos, Piping water heaters, 3 rd floor, six penetrations. Third pic would have never worked with 1/4 bends. Drilled at a 22.5 with parallel 22.5 offsets ( 1/16 bends butted hub to hub).



I really hope none of that is load bearing. Given that it's douglas fir I worry that it might be.




.
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Old 07-03-2020, 01:57 PM   #10
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Using a hole saw is like using a hand saw. When there are faster options, it's hard to justify the extra time spent. For any hole up to 2-9/16", a man should be able to control a drill using a Forstner bit, If the bit won't bite, maybe it's time to sharpen or replace.
Nails can't be totally avoided, but a little time spent looking for nails and pulling those found or relocating a hole is worth the effort in avoided danger, frustration and bit wear.
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