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Old 02-23-2010, 09:46 AM   #11
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Just cuz the reading on the display are saying what they say doesn't mean the thermistor is reading correctly.

Thermistors work on resistance right? (Someone correct me if I'm wrong)

If I'm right, make them give you the ohm values for various different temps and check for closeness in actual reading.

I doubt the thermistors are your problem, but don't let tech support flunkies troubleshoot over the phone- unless you like the runaround.

Good luck.
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:31 PM   #12
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You answered your own question with that last statement. To me, this doesn't sound like a tankless issue at all. Rarley do tankless units run hot than cold....hot than cold without erroring out or shutting down completely.

It sounds like a bad shower valve in or near the trouble areas. This includes above and below, the troubled areas.

Protech is correct. Turn something on and put your hand on tyhe HW pipe. It won't lie. If you get consistant hot water you have now proved it is not the tankless unit. Which is hard to believe because it's a Navien POS.

When you were adjusting the Posi, that would make sense to me that you have different responces. Bad cartridges are very sensitive to how thay malfunction with respect to pressures.

I've seen shower / lavs go hot to cold -- cold to hot just by flushing a toilet.

Thermisters typically don't break, it's just another clue in the puzzle. I would focus on X connection and would be looking at shower valves.



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They have other bathrooms in the house. This is the only one with a problem.

Any ideas?
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:20 PM   #13
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did you every solve the problem
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:47 AM   #14
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Definately check the gpm on the tankless and the gpm on the fixture being affected. I have seen where the gas line was undersized causing fluctuating temps. too. Starving for gas(btu's).
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Old 03-14-2010, 07:46 PM   #15
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There could be a defective Moen cartridge somewhere else in the house causing the problem. I've seen that happen a number of times. Even the newer plastic ones can fail. allowing a cross connection.
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:07 AM   #16
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did you every solve the problem
No, I haven't been able to get back yet. Our schedules have been conflicting. I hope to get there this week.
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Old 03-15-2010, 05:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
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No, I haven't been able to get back yet. Our schedules have been conflicting. I hope to get there this week.
If you want to prove what a great plumber you are, pull off the trim and shut off one of the supplies (doesn't matter which one) and then check to see how hot the water gets. Of course this is assuming the shower valve actually has a little 1/4 turn shut off. If not, ya gotta just replace the cartridge. Pulling it out and cleaning it off and reinstalling it may fix the problem, but that's a hack fix and cartridges are usually pretty cheap.
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:04 PM   #18
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I don't thinks its a cartridge. It is a brand new Moen faucet. The previous Peerless faucet had the same symptom.

I am leaning towards the clothes washing machine. It is directly under the problem bathroom. I asked the ho to turn off the control valve(s) to the washer, to eliminate it, but, they said they can't.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RealLivePlumber View Post
I don't thinks its a cartridge. It is a brand new Moen faucet. The previous Peerless faucet had the same symptom.

I am leaning towards the clothes washing machine. It is directly under the problem bathroom. I asked the ho to turn off the control valve(s) to the washer, to eliminate it, but, they said they can't.
If there are 2 separate valves feeding the washer it's not the problem. The washing machine solenoid valve are pretty much impossible to have cross over...

If they have a Symmons washing machine valve and it will not shut off the water it is very likely the crossover culprit.
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Old 03-15-2010, 11:57 PM   #20
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If its a crossover problem why wouldnt it affect the other fixtures?
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