We stub out of the wall with pex when we plumb with it. I wish we could use copper stubs to make it more solid. Framers, electricians, heat guys, sheetrockers, etc. kick the crap out of our lines then they end up looking like an idiot put in the water lines coming out of the wall on a 45. I hate doing it this way, plus it looks like poo on the outside of the wall. :furious:
I use Sioux Chief stub out elbows. They're not perfect, but they will take a bit of abuse and still look good at finish time. They're WAY cheaper than the parts and labor of building your own with a wingback, or even just with a regular elbow. Under 3 bucks each here in Canada (cheaper in the States). And they're fast and easy to install.
Because copper stubouts can take drywaller abuse and still end up straight, fairly solid and looking good. Because I prefer a nice solid CR19 valve rather than a BRPX19C that tends to twist in the crimp when you turn the handle, because they're on the same axis. I use only BRPX14C's for that reason.
Pex is fine for what it is, and I run a ton of it, but I certainly don't use it everywhere.
I crimp on an ell, and stub out pex. If they're paying for pex, that's what they are getting. I always ask if they would rather have copper stubs, and it's almost always "how much more? No, that's alright"...
I always run copper and use pex as my stub outs. I just gotta be different.:cool2:
Actually I do the same as Airgap. Pex house, pex stubouts. I will go out of my way like a madman to make sure something is going to work right, but I won't always kill myself to make something look pretty, if I feel it's not necessary. Use blocking and clip the $hit out of it.
If I'm using pex I stub out with pex. Its the drywallers job to cut his holes correctly around my pipes. I'm the plumber not the general contractor. Good drywallers dont have a problem and neither do I.
I used to use the copper stubouts (still use them on toilets if I have to come out of the floor) but now I simply crimp on an elbow or use the turnout bend supports. meh.
We stub out of the wall with pex when we plumb with it. I wish we could use copper stubs to make it more solid. Framers, electricians, heat guys, sheetrockers, etc. kick the crap out of our lines then they end up looking like an idiot put in the water lines coming out of the wall on a 45. I hate doing it this way, plus it looks like poo on the outside of the wall. :furious:
I have always used the Holdrite steel brackets and the purple turnouts.. I've never had a problem with them! But even on a Pex job it still requires some use of copper for the W/H, H/B, kitchen stubouts & water service.
This is simply not a true statement. You dont hafta have copper to complete the mentioned tasks. To start off wtf does the kitchen stubouts have to do with it?:laughing: Pex is fine for a water service here aslong as you use the appropriate size. Hose bibbs get drop ells to screw into and mounted to the wall.:thumbup: The water heater could be connected with brass screw pipe or flex lines......no copper required. Copper is not king anymore:laughing: It doesn't matter whats better its whats available and legal. I dont see the big deal about bracing and straping pipe,you throw up a couple 2x4 scraps and nail the pex to it and it stays put.
I had some trouble with the pex copper stub outs. The barbed end was a bit too malleable and we had a couple leaks. We used drop ears for hose bibs and couldnt seem to tighten properly a few times and the stupid drop ear split after a month from over stress. Havent had a problem stubbing out pex. After a while the desire to see copper goes away and a great exhilarating feeling of pex everywhere captures you..basicly you dont give a rip because it looks just fine.
i stub out pex, thats what a manabloc does for you. I leave about 26 feet stubbed out in a roll, and ask the sheet rockers not to damage my pex when they hang the drywall.
I use no copper at all when I'm running pex. The whole reason I'm there running pex is because the HO want's all the copper gone. Putting copper back in would get me some dirty looks from the HO.
We use hose bibs that have a pex barb machined right onto the valve body and bolt to the wall via tap-cons. We stub out all of the stops in pex with pex barbed valves. When hooking to gas heater we use threaded brass pipe.
NO COPPER AT ALL!
I take that back. We use hard type L for our tub/shower valve stub outs and risers. That is not continuously pressurized pipe though nor does in contain water for more than an hour or so per day. Even then, we use only water soluble flax and wipe/flush it out out really well. We also ream the tube and don't over heat it.
When were done water piping we put the angle stops on however we remove the handle and compression nut and ring. When trim comes we are always short of nut, rings and handles:laughing:
Umm... Why would you be short nuts/furls and handles? Do people steal them, or what?
I put valves on at final. Lately with all the faucets with their own flex tubes, I have a large surplus of nuts & furls. Used to have to buy them separately and keep in the finish parts box.
You see two hots and two colds. Hot for K-sink and hot for dishwasher. Cold for K-sink and cold for ice maker. :thumbsup: I like to stub 4 pipes out like you see. Somtimes I will use the double stop with individual cut off's for 2 fixtures with one 1/2" inlet but today I decided to stub fo pipes out and use individual stops.
Slight price increase? Your kidding right? At one time 3/4 copper was hovering around 3 bucks a ft. Not to mention the difference in labor. Its a big difference in cost.
Someone check this guys credentials. He plumbs like a DIY'er, hack, scab, farmer.
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